2006 GT: Is the BMR Suspension Package a good deal?
06-24-2008, 12:29 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 35
RE: 2006 GT: Is the BMR Suspension Package a good deal?
i'm learning alot from this thread. ive picked up that koni's or d-spec are good and tires are a must. i understand the driver is the key to the car but i don't have the time to work on that alot yet, since im in the navy and can't drive my car currently.
so sounds like i should get some good springs, some konis or d-specs, and tires. i was looking at rims for the s197 and they don't seem to carry alot of 19s most are 20s or 18s is it justme or is that right? would sway bars be good? i know the car has alot of body roll, it's better than previous models but its still there. should i get sway bars or they only a small improvment that isn't worth it?
oh whats some good readingon this(preferably onlinei can't just go to Barnes& Noble and pick up abook)
so sounds like i should get some good springs, some konis or d-specs, and tires. i was looking at rims for the s197 and they don't seem to carry alot of 19s most are 20s or 18s is it justme or is that right? would sway bars be good? i know the car has alot of body roll, it's better than previous models but its still there. should i get sway bars or they only a small improvment that isn't worth it?oh whats some good readingon this(preferably onlinei can't just go to Barnes& Noble and pick up abook)
06-24-2008, 08:28 AM
#13
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
RE: 2006 GT: Is the BMR Suspension Package a good deal?
You are going to get minimal body roll in an S197 as the frame is far more ridged than the SN95 with my car being the exception 
I am running stock rear sway bar and is just fine. I have heard that end-links are a nice upgrade from stock as well as good dampers and lower/upper control arms. If you plan to lower it,these are good idea along with adj. pan-hard and correctpinion angle via right parts.Many here will give you much betteradvice on such things based on your wants/needs.
Yes, you will find LOTS of 20' wheels for S197's as many like them, I do not. I prefer 18's as you have MANY more options for tires and can go wider and have less clearance issues especially when lowered. Looks like you prefer 19's and not too common, so you may have alot of looking on you hands (hellooooooooo internet
)
Good luck and thanks for your service [sm=patriot.gif]
Jazzer
I am running stock rear sway bar and is just fine. I have heard that end-links are a nice upgrade from stock as well as good dampers and lower/upper control arms. If you plan to lower it,these are good idea along with adj. pan-hard and correctpinion angle via right parts.Many here will give you much betteradvice on such things based on your wants/needs.Yes, you will find LOTS of 20' wheels for S197's as many like them, I do not. I prefer 18's as you have MANY more options for tires and can go wider and have less clearance issues especially when lowered. Looks like you prefer 19's and not too common, so you may have alot of looking on you hands (hellooooooooo internet
)Good luck and thanks for your service [sm=patriot.gif]
Jazzer
06-24-2008, 11:26 AM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 35
RE: 2006 GT: Is the BMR Suspension Package a good deal?
ive been looking around at the other posts alot and lookign online and SS.com had its one packages if i get stage 1&2 ill get
ProKit
Camber adjust bolts
Steeda Street PH Bar
D-specs
BMR LCAs
i did a quick search and says the PH bar is adjustable. SS.com, that true?
anyone know who carries 19" bullet rims and sell them with a good tire package?
would it be better just going with
springs
Konis/D-spec
A Good PH Bar
LCAs
are camber bolts or plates big for a DD?
ProKit
Camber adjust bolts
Steeda Street PH Bar
D-specs
BMR LCAs
i did a quick search and says the PH bar is adjustable. SS.com, that true?
anyone know who carries 19" bullet rims and sell them with a good tire package?
would it be better just going with
springs
Konis/D-spec
A Good PH Bar
LCAs
are camber bolts or plates big for a DD?
06-24-2008, 12:12 PM
#17
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
RE: 2006 GT: Is the BMR Suspension Package a good deal?
Sam Strano seems to have good info on the difference between the two leading dampers around here. D-Specsand one other (don't recall the name at the moment) seem to be the preferred ones by most, but both are very good. I hear there areslight differences depending on driving needs.
I don't know if the SS.com PH bar is adjustable, but you should def. get adj. one if lowering your ride. I will let the others chime in on CC plates and such. Maybe I could sell you my CC plates as by this weekend, I will no longer need any CC plates at all
Jazzer
I don't know if the SS.com PH bar is adjustable, but you should def. get adj. one if lowering your ride. I will let the others chime in on CC plates and such. Maybe I could sell you my CC plates as by this weekend, I will no longer need any CC plates at all
Jazzer
06-24-2008, 12:37 PM
#18
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
RE: 2006 GT: Is the BMR Suspension Package a good deal?
To each his own.
All I can say is that I compete, and in my sport the difference between winning and losing can be extremely small. I've won Nationals 4 times. The margins were big twice, and really small twice. If I really thought something was "good enough" and just didn't care I wouldn't have won 4 times. For the record the margins were: .029, .090, 1.18 and 1.9 seconds each year. These are over cars that in many cases had a lot more money spent on them, and in fact some had all kinds of trick things even3-way adjustable Penske Shocks. Two of those cars also weighed in @ 150 lbs. less than my own.
In this day and age, as much as I hate to say it... the proof is in the pudding. When I can a Mustang that is very much stock depending on your definition, but in reality only differs from a Mustang GT because of springs and bars and out run what are definition more "sports cars", I think the car is PLENTY capable.
Two weeks ago I outran a fellow competitor in a Porsche 993.. and it wasn't because of tires, we had the same Hoosier tires. And it wasn't because of talent as this man is an autoxing legend. Here's why I could do it:
The car is supremely capable with just a little thought. The car is tuned well, by someone who doesn't think a "package" is always the right answer. The car is driven well, because no matter what the car won't drive itself. And I set up cars for others, and they don't always go as fast.... but we know that's not the car's fault because of my results.
Sorry to be so blunt. But I'm not at all big buying or selling parts that aren't needed. And I'm not saying the cars should be left stock either. steelcomp edited his post saying he disagreed with me to add that most packages included profit center parts or popular parts. So actually he does agree with me, as that's why I'm not keen on such packages.
You want to add part, that's fine with me. My job is to sell parts. I just prefer to sell the best part for the job, nothing more or less. I'm not saying you can't add parts, I'm saying that when the cars have a very good baseline setup on them, they can do a damn good job of cornering. From there, you need to tell me what specifically you want to address about the car's behaviorand we'll pick more parts (if needed) from there.
That's how I do it, and it annoys some. Frankly I'd be annoyed if I bought a bunch of stuff I may or may not have needed. And I've been there, which is why I feel and workthe way I do.
All I can say is that I compete, and in my sport the difference between winning and losing can be extremely small. I've won Nationals 4 times. The margins were big twice, and really small twice. If I really thought something was "good enough" and just didn't care I wouldn't have won 4 times. For the record the margins were: .029, .090, 1.18 and 1.9 seconds each year. These are over cars that in many cases had a lot more money spent on them, and in fact some had all kinds of trick things even3-way adjustable Penske Shocks. Two of those cars also weighed in @ 150 lbs. less than my own.
In this day and age, as much as I hate to say it... the proof is in the pudding. When I can a Mustang that is very much stock depending on your definition, but in reality only differs from a Mustang GT because of springs and bars and out run what are definition more "sports cars", I think the car is PLENTY capable.
Two weeks ago I outran a fellow competitor in a Porsche 993.. and it wasn't because of tires, we had the same Hoosier tires. And it wasn't because of talent as this man is an autoxing legend. Here's why I could do it:
The car is supremely capable with just a little thought. The car is tuned well, by someone who doesn't think a "package" is always the right answer. The car is driven well, because no matter what the car won't drive itself. And I set up cars for others, and they don't always go as fast.... but we know that's not the car's fault because of my results.
Sorry to be so blunt. But I'm not at all big buying or selling parts that aren't needed. And I'm not saying the cars should be left stock either. steelcomp edited his post saying he disagreed with me to add that most packages included profit center parts or popular parts. So actually he does agree with me, as that's why I'm not keen on such packages.
You want to add part, that's fine with me. My job is to sell parts. I just prefer to sell the best part for the job, nothing more or less. I'm not saying you can't add parts, I'm saying that when the cars have a very good baseline setup on them, they can do a damn good job of cornering. From there, you need to tell me what specifically you want to address about the car's behaviorand we'll pick more parts (if needed) from there.
That's how I do it, and it annoys some. Frankly I'd be annoyed if I bought a bunch of stuff I may or may not have needed. And I've been there, which is why I feel and workthe way I do.
06-24-2008, 06:59 PM
#19
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Harrisburg PA
Posts: 1,778
RE: 2006 GT: Is the BMR Suspension Package a good deal?
I'm one of those guys who threw a lot of money at the car and nowwish I'd had a plan before spending the $:
- I would have kept the stock 3.55 gears (4.10s suck on a road course and aren't all that good on AutoX)
- I would have gone with Koni Sports over the D-Specs (rebound adjustablility is the key)
- I wouldn't have gone with the progressive rate Eibach Pros (rather have linear rate and a little less drop)
- I wouldn't have bought (and never installed) LCAs - put me into a different AX class.
- I wouldn't have bought (and never installed) a one piece drive shaft - different AX class
These are all tid-bits I've mostly learned from attending many high performance events and reading posts and articles by guys like Sam (guys that are proven experts and use specific parts to improve specific areas). Oh well, the car is still working very well as is (except for those damn gears - constantly hitting the rev limiter).
If I had to do it again from scratch this would be my recipe:
- Linear springs - not sure which one's, I'd talk to an expert about this, on the phone. Want about a 1" drop.
- Koni-sports
- Adjustable camber plates (Ilike how solid they are, as opposed tobolts)
- Extra set of rims (9 or 10" wide) with140 treadwear (AX touring class tires) or R-Comps
- Adjustable PHB
- Upgraded brake pads and fluid
- And lots and lots of seat time
I'm not convinced any of the other "must haves" (LCAs, reloc brakets, bump steer kit, sway bars, tower brace, etc) are needed for an HPDE car (Sam has already proven that most of this list is not needed for AX). The only additional thing I'm considering is end links (need to talk with a few folks about these).
- I would have kept the stock 3.55 gears (4.10s suck on a road course and aren't all that good on AutoX)
- I would have gone with Koni Sports over the D-Specs (rebound adjustablility is the key)
- I wouldn't have gone with the progressive rate Eibach Pros (rather have linear rate and a little less drop)
- I wouldn't have bought (and never installed) LCAs - put me into a different AX class.
- I wouldn't have bought (and never installed) a one piece drive shaft - different AX class
These are all tid-bits I've mostly learned from attending many high performance events and reading posts and articles by guys like Sam (guys that are proven experts and use specific parts to improve specific areas). Oh well, the car is still working very well as is (except for those damn gears - constantly hitting the rev limiter).
If I had to do it again from scratch this would be my recipe:
- Linear springs - not sure which one's, I'd talk to an expert about this, on the phone. Want about a 1" drop.
- Koni-sports
- Adjustable camber plates (Ilike how solid they are, as opposed tobolts)
- Extra set of rims (9 or 10" wide) with140 treadwear (AX touring class tires) or R-Comps
- Adjustable PHB
- Upgraded brake pads and fluid
- And lots and lots of seat time
I'm not convinced any of the other "must haves" (LCAs, reloc brakets, bump steer kit, sway bars, tower brace, etc) are needed for an HPDE car (Sam has already proven that most of this list is not needed for AX). The only additional thing I'm considering is end links (need to talk with a few folks about these).
