jerseyblood

I have Tokico adjustable springs and eibach lowering springs. What do you guys recommend next. Im looking to do the Siver State Clasic this year and want to have my suspension completed by then. I was looking into getting control arms, a panhard bar and sway bars. For those of you who dont know what this is, just google it.

lrgnation

I would go with a watts link, sway bars, and caster/camber plates.

Argonaut

Wow, that is totally cool! Id love to do that some day - little far for me to travel though.

I checked out 318 on Google maps, south of Lund. It looks pretty straight with just gentle turns (of course on the ground it may look a little different). Personally if I was you, I would not worry about control arms, PHB, etc. Those parts will add very little for this course. Tires and brakes would be my biggest concern.

Since Ive done it...I know: going from stock PHB to an adjustable chrom-moly with rod end andSteeda bracegives little difference in feel. If you do a lot of twisty stuff, sure its a relatively cheap upgrade. Going to an adjustable UCA, chrom-moly w/rod end makes a little difference but no WOW moment. Just slightly tighter feeling. LCAs...Im still stock. Sway bars...still stock so I cant comment. To me the big bangs come from the springs, dampers (both of which you already have), tires (biggest bang of all wrt handling) and alignment. Then there is the matter of stopping from triple digit speeds - no way would I even consider doing that course without the standard low buck upgrade: track pads, hi-temp fluid and SS lines.

If you already have your tires, brakes and front alignment sorted out and are just looking to spend more $ then my 2 cents is:
- An adjustable PHB- there are lots of good ones (UMI, Sphon, BMR, Steeda, etc) and lots of folks who will claim theirs is the best
- An adjustable UCA- same story
- fixed lowers - same story
- I am unconvinced aftermarket sways are needed. At least at my level and experience(HPDE 2).

jerseyblood

Argo, I forgot to put in my sig that I have the Baer Claw 6 piston brake kit. Looks like I have everything I need then so its off to the races. Im going into the 110MPH class so from what Im told I cant go below 80 MPH or above 130 MPH or I will be DQ.

Sam Strano

I'd recommend a Watts Link for this use above all the other stuff. More important than camber/caster plates. Open road racing doesn't require lots of camber because the corners are not tight and the car doesn't roll like it does on a track or autox. And too much makes the car more darty @ speed and takes braking power away. That's a trade off you make for speed on a track or autox becaue the result is a faster car. Also S197's have lots of caster stock, about 7 degrees so you don't need help there.

A Watts link makes the rear much more stable than a PHB. You get rid of the arc the the PHB moves, which is nice, but not as big a deal as the fact the roll center does not move up and down with a Watts like it does with a PHB. When you are running go knows how fast, stability is a key.

I sell all the parts mentioned in this thread, PHB's, Plates, bars, and even two different Watts Links (Fays2 and Steeda).

loots06

Here a link for you.

http://www.lmperformance.com/15848/87.html

Sam Strano

But I'd recommend this one instead: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=79&ModelID=5

Notice the difference in things like the structure and even the axle clamps. Let alone how the roll center adjustment can easily slip on the Lakewood, vs. having teeth so the bolt can't just slip on the Fays2 setup.

RodeoFlyer

I would leave the suspension the way it is and go for more importnt things like cooling and aero. If it were me I would be thinking about a air dam, vented hood, wing, radiator, low drag mirrors (Agent 47), shorty antenna. I would look to lower rotational mass as much as possible (driveshaft, wheels, flywheel).

I would also double check your speed rating on your tires. Speed ratings are for a given speed for a certain amount of time. Blowing a tire over 100mph SUCKS - i've done it.

* your sig lists a hood and air dam - disregard those 2.

jerseyblood

Yeah I do have the air dam and vented hood. I also have the shorty antenna and the option between the stock spoiler or GT500 spoiler. My 20" wheels are 27 lbs. This is what I will do the run with, but future mods are the aluminum driveshaft, lightweight flywheel and clutch.

Norm Peterson

I don't think I like the geometry on the Lakewood. Unless there is enough adjustment available to set the two links at mirror-image inclinations as seen in rear view, that setup will make the axle move laterally as the suspension rises/falls. Rotating the axle clamps might not be the whole answer, because the links will then pick up some fore/aft locating duty, which then puts them into arguments with the LCAs and UCA.

I thought the whole idea of having a WL in the first place was to get rid of a PHB's asymmetrical behavior. Not duplicate it or add new issues. Am I missing something that badly?


Norm