Panhard bar: Rod ends?
#11
I would stay poly/poly ends for a DD. I also believe that regardless of the company that any poly bushing can fail and they should be checked as often as you change your oil. Grease them (if possible) and that should help with cracking bushings. Also if you drive it like you stole it then this can happen where you crack poly bushings and IMO is acceptable based on driving. So the question still remains- possible increased NVH with rod/rod ends....less with poly/rod ends.....even less with poly/poly. Which is best for you? depends on the way you drive- and you can only answer that. If you track the car or race in anyway step up to poly/rod ends. If your still cracking the poly end then step up to rod/rod ends......JMO
#12
I am still on stock tires so I wouldnt have thought they would be under much stress yet. Also they have only been on 4k miles.
I talked with BMR yesterday and they are sending new replacements so I will see how it goes.
My LCA's are poly/rod end and I havent noticed much if any increase in NVH, and it appears I can expect about the same from the panhard bar.
So looks like Poly/Rodend for me. I will post up my thoughts after install.
And yes if the new bushings split again, I will probably end up rod/rod.
Thanks,
I talked with BMR yesterday and they are sending new replacements so I will see how it goes.
My LCA's are poly/rod end and I havent noticed much if any increase in NVH, and it appears I can expect about the same from the panhard bar.
So looks like Poly/Rodend for me. I will post up my thoughts after install.
And yes if the new bushings split again, I will probably end up rod/rod.
Thanks,
#13
Poly bushings are going to split regardless of manufacturer. You can't fight physics.
I have Maximum Motorsports' panhard bar with rod ends. I never had a problem with noise from it. On occasion it would rattle going over speedbumps or the occasional pothole. Both ends are mounted far enough from the body of the car that little NVH is transfered.
My control arms on the other hand - are fu**ing noisy. They are also MM. One of these days I will be swapping them out for good 'ol $100 GT500 arms. For TT it saves me a point anyway.
For a panhard bar, I would simply buy one that is inexpensive, well made, and from a manufacturer/distributor you can trust. I suggest Sam Strano. You always know where to find him, and IMO i'd rather give my money to another grassroots racer than a big company.
I have Maximum Motorsports' panhard bar with rod ends. I never had a problem with noise from it. On occasion it would rattle going over speedbumps or the occasional pothole. Both ends are mounted far enough from the body of the car that little NVH is transfered.
My control arms on the other hand - are fu**ing noisy. They are also MM. One of these days I will be swapping them out for good 'ol $100 GT500 arms. For TT it saves me a point anyway.
For a panhard bar, I would simply buy one that is inexpensive, well made, and from a manufacturer/distributor you can trust. I suggest Sam Strano. You always know where to find him, and IMO i'd rather give my money to another grassroots racer than a big company.
#14
I agree--Poly bushings on PHB's are best left to street cars that don't put a ton of load into the suspension. If you drive hard, you want the least deflection possible. And quality rod-ends aren't terribly noisy anyway, and are less so on a PHB than on LCA's (more rod-ends, and mounted closer to you, and under different loads).
There are clearly options for different types and styles of PHB's, it's not like choices are lacking and the most expensive of which are $179 (for a double rod-end Chrome-Moly version).
The biggest thing I can tell folks is that you are buying a lateral locating device that takes an awful lot of G's. I want the one that's toughest, deflects the least (why I don't recommend aluminum here as a personal opinion), uses good quality hardware, and has the bungs welded by someone who knows what they are doing.
There are clearly options for different types and styles of PHB's, it's not like choices are lacking and the most expensive of which are $179 (for a double rod-end Chrome-Moly version).
The biggest thing I can tell folks is that you are buying a lateral locating device that takes an awful lot of G's. I want the one that's toughest, deflects the least (why I don't recommend aluminum here as a personal opinion), uses good quality hardware, and has the bungs welded by someone who knows what they are doing.
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