Argonaut

My SS lines are Goodrich, ordered them thru Sam Strano. Brake ducts are Quantum Motorsports, fronts only. I've heard that claim by Carbotech also but I've never used them. I know the Carbotech XP8 and XP10 are really popular and used by lots of guys on the track, Corvette owners seem especially to like them. They are about same price as the equivalent Hawk pads.

Texotic

Which kit do you have from Quantum? The Race kit? and when you put in the ducts into the lower grille, do those inserts just come out or do you have to cut them out? I'm trying to figure out if it would be worth it to go with the Agent 47 kit and the matching lower grille.

Red06

I'm using Steeda lines and Quantum Ducts (front only). I think the rear Steeda lines are a little too short. I use the ATE Super Blue /Typ 200 (one is blue and the other amber making it easier to tell when the fluid has been flushed) and have never had the fluid boil. I buy 2 liters and this usually leaves me enough to top up after bleeding for the rest of the year. I do the fronts after every event and the rears every couple events.

I spoke to Carbotech when I was looking for some new pads this fall and they said you can leave the XP8s on all the time. I didn't ask about the XP10s. XP10s front and XP8s rear is popular.

Argonaut

I have kit 06068.3KT from Quantum. I hacked up the stock lower grill with a dremel tool to mount the intakes. If you don't want to do this the Agent47 lower grill is a good option, I didn't want to spend the $ though. Note: I'm a little disappointed in the quality of the actual ducting (the tubing). On my right front ducting the fabric tore away from the metal frame, creating a hole. I sealed it up with duct tape for now but I'm going to need new ducting. Have not contacted Quantum so not sure if they will replace it.

sonnier

I'll be out there this weekend running clockwise. It'll be my first time running clockwise but it is even faster. One thing I've noticed at TWS is that if you leave the traction control on your brakes will fade and overheat because you will overpower the rear brakes, if you didn't deactivate it. I run Hawk HP+s in front currently and Porterfield R4-Ss in the rear with Motul RBF600 and Steeda lines. I've never had too many problems except when track temps are very high, but I want to do brake ducts soon.

Sleeper_08

I have the Quantum 7027.01 Brake Inlet Adapters and 06068.3KT Brake Cooling Kit. I "Dremeled" out the flat areas between the "honeycombs" on the black part of the fascia after removing it. Then "Dremeled" out the holes in the white part of the fascia. My installation was made more complicated because of my intercooler and 285/45/18 tires and lowered suspension. Some black rubberized paint hid the white areas that showed through the honey combs. The result is completely stock looking unless you get down real close and thus adds to the Sleeper effect.

My first set of ducting lasted about 10 minutes on the street as we didn't tie the ducts inboard enough. After getting new and better ducting from a race car shop and using lots of wire wraps I was able to tie it inboard far enough to clear the tires. The replacement hose is a lot stronger but less flexible than the Quantum hose.

I'm thinking about the cooling ducts in the rear for next season but so far have not decided to do it.

My SS lines are also Goodrich and they came with the GT500 brake kit.

Sam Strano

A few points.

If the rotors are warped, don't turn them. They'll only warp again, and faster because of less mass.

I can do the Goodridge lines, and a number of different brake pads. I like HT-10s because they wear very well and stop well too. They are not the ultimate pads, Hawk themselves have a number of newer and more powerful compounds. But if the pads do the job, not much reason to spend more... In fact Argonaut and jayel (sp?) both got a their pads from me.

You need more appropriate pads to deal with the heat. You need more appropriate fluid to deal with the heat. While you are flushing and bleeding brakes, it's a hell of a good time to do Stainless lines. But they aren't necessary on a new car as was previously mentioned. But rubber coated, fiberglass braided lines are not as strong, swell more when hot, and are more easily punctured or torn by debris.

Brakes aren't the best place to be borderline. That said, I think ATE Fluid would be fine. I carry that, as well as a number of others including Castrol SRF which is the gold standard (and costs about the same it seems).

jayel579

Brad- you mean you actually used duct tape for its intended purpose?

Sam set me up with HT-10s and ATe Super Blue. That combination will provide plenty of braking and you won't run out. It was probably too much braking for what I needed my first time out but on the third day of my first track event I was fully using all of the braking power the pads and fluid provided.

I think I will step up to the Hawk DTC60s once I finish off the pads I have. Track pads are no good on rotors at all, I also plan to bring spare rotors to track events next season. But like anything involved with braking, it is better to have way too much instead of wishing you had more.

Texotic

Yeah, i forgot to mention that i had forgotten to turn off TCS when i boiled the brakes. I remembered the next time, though!

When you look at it, the track looks like it was designed to run CW and when I asked my instructor, he said they run CCW most of the time because it's safer. There's a lot more runoff going CCW on most turns.

Nuke

Congrats, Texotic. Sounds like we know where to find you in the future! I enjoyed reading your post; made me feel like I was there with you. Now to get that GTO to wave you by...