Handling Upgrade
#1
Handling Upgrade
With a 20% savings across the board I went and pulled the trigger and ordered the parts for one of two suspension upgrades I am planning for our 2008 gt. I will pin the rear down in the spring. Went all steeda even though I was leaning towards the FRP kit….just could not justify the cost:555 5716 Steeda Mustang Double Bar Strut Tower Brace (05-10 GT)
555 1065 Steeda Mustang Sway Bar Kit (05-10)
555 8410 Steeda Pro-Action Sport Spring/Shock/Strut Mount Package (05-10)
555 2551 A Steeda Mustang Street Adjustable Panhard Bar (05-14)
555 2555 Steeda Heavy Duty Mustang Panhard Bar Brace (05-14)
Fussed over the shocks/struts, considering koni yellows (could not justify the need for adjustable at almost 1K) and koni STR.T’s and finely settled on steeda’s pro action’s. Any thoughts on something I may have missed on the handling side for a weekend toy ???
555 1065 Steeda Mustang Sway Bar Kit (05-10)
555 8410 Steeda Pro-Action Sport Spring/Shock/Strut Mount Package (05-10)
555 2551 A Steeda Mustang Street Adjustable Panhard Bar (05-14)
555 2555 Steeda Heavy Duty Mustang Panhard Bar Brace (05-14)
Fussed over the shocks/struts, considering koni yellows (could not justify the need for adjustable at almost 1K) and koni STR.T’s and finely settled on steeda’s pro action’s. Any thoughts on something I may have missed on the handling side for a weekend toy ???
#2
Wheels and tires spec'ed for cornering & handling instead of "Cars & Coffee conventional".
I understand the decision to go non-adjustable. It's hard to picture the benefits until you've had them.
I track my car from time to time, but I haven't added anybody's strut tower brace or PHB brace (even its PHB is mostly Ford-original). It pulls over 1.1g sustained and peaks in the 1.3x g range when I do my part somewhere near right.
Norm
I understand the decision to go non-adjustable. It's hard to picture the benefits until you've had them.
I track my car from time to time, but I haven't added anybody's strut tower brace or PHB brace (even its PHB is mostly Ford-original). It pulls over 1.1g sustained and peaks in the 1.3x g range when I do my part somewhere near right.
Norm
#3
Wheels and tires spec'ed for cornering & handling instead of "Cars & Coffee conventional".
I understand the decision to go non-adjustable. It's hard to picture the benefits until you've had them.
I track my car from time to time, but I haven't added anybody's strut tower brace or PHB brace (even its PHB is mostly Ford-original). It pulls over 1.1g sustained and peaks in the 1.3x g range when I do my part somewhere near right.
Norm
I understand the decision to go non-adjustable. It's hard to picture the benefits until you've had them.
I track my car from time to time, but I haven't added anybody's strut tower brace or PHB brace (even its PHB is mostly Ford-original). It pulls over 1.1g sustained and peaks in the 1.3x g range when I do my part somewhere near right.
Norm
#4
Square the wheel widths and tire sizes up. It might be a little more work up front once you get into 285 & wider territory, but it's worth it.
285/35-18 MPSS on 18x11 Forgestars all around. Front and rear offsets are different, but even this much can be done up front without too much effort. A NA 4.6L doesn't make nearly enough torque to need a staggered setup for cushion against oversteer caused by too much throttle in and out of the corners. What it does need is more front grip to mitigate the designed-in understeer.
On 10" wide 19" wheels, 285/35's would be slightly easier to fit all around. Or I suppose you could run 275/35's up front and 285/35's out back without introducing much understeer in all but the very hardest cornering possible with them. But I think I'd still rather square the tire sizes up at 275/35 (I may have to, but that's a story for a different thread).
Norm
285/35-18 MPSS on 18x11 Forgestars all around. Front and rear offsets are different, but even this much can be done up front without too much effort. A NA 4.6L doesn't make nearly enough torque to need a staggered setup for cushion against oversteer caused by too much throttle in and out of the corners. What it does need is more front grip to mitigate the designed-in understeer.
On 10" wide 19" wheels, 285/35's would be slightly easier to fit all around. Or I suppose you could run 275/35's up front and 285/35's out back without introducing much understeer in all but the very hardest cornering possible with them. But I think I'd still rather square the tire sizes up at 275/35 (I may have to, but that's a story for a different thread).
Norm