Texotic

Shocks & struts.

I wouldn't switch to the Sportlines if handling is the priority... get ready to hit the bumpstops a lot. Now if you're just going for looks, then yeah, throw on the Sportlines.

chp2150

What I meant by the shotgun approach was just buying stuff to solve a piece of the puzzle. People like Norm and Sam have the right approach. They have provided more of a "systems" approach to solve your total handling concerns, where the recommended parts will work well together.

The 20" wheels and minimal side-wall tires are not doing you any favors in the handling dept.

chp2150

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html[/QUOTE]

That's an excellent link!

ILikeBond

^^ Wow, good link.

Ford4me1

Did you install a new panhard bar? It is possible the rear end is to one side and this is what you are feeling on corners.

Sam Strano

Guys--

A few things to consider here.

First it's seemingly being overlooked that his unsprung weight went up from OE. Also that the stock shocks are far from great to start with (just ask anyone who's only change those from OE to a really good set).

Further, this is the internet. Beware of what you read and put a ton of stock in. The links shown above read great, and do hold some good information. However, they come from a source that was never competitive with me, and was fond of claiming my cars are setup 65% of optimal compared to say... his. Meanwhile I was winning--am still am.

I have two @ S197's I drive weekly. My GT and my girlfriend Marcy's V-6 car that we put all GT suspension on (GT springs, bars and my GT dampers). My car only differs from her's in that I have the Koni's, 17" wheels and a 8.8" axle. I acutally have more unsprung weight than her car, but yet mine is much more composed and stuck to the road. It also rides better with less impact harshness and the back end doesn't dance around over any little imperfection like her car (and mine when I had OE shocks).

This is a case where we are comparing apples to apples, no other aftermarket parts, so I get a crystal clear picture of what the dampers do head to head. They are the FIRST suspension mod I'll make to any S197 that someone is seeking to improve the driveability on. It's even more important with changes to unsprung weight, and/or springs.

Norm Peterson

Websense won't let me see that site here at work, though I have a pretty good idea whose it is - and there is good information to be found there. But I don't think I was in lock-step agreement with everything on it either, not when it was first put up, anyway.


bolivian - I'm still having difficulty understanding what you think is happening, still don't know which end is sliding first that causes you to lift off the throttle. Also, "wanting to slide into the curve" doesn't seem to match "wanting to go straight".

Norm

bolivianpimp

Sorry, what i meant to say is that the car does not want to turn WITH the road. So if the road curves left, I steer my car left but it seems like i dont have much control and the car wants to go straight(which is the curve).

I definitely appreciate your help guys. One thing though i know 1.5" drop and 20's are not a good suspension additive, i will definitely keep both because i like the look on the car.
So dampers will make the back end not jump around as much? and which ones are good?
I do not have an adjustable panhard, will that adjust my rear end for the drop?
I guess shocks are definitely needed and will improve the ride much. I just cant fork out the $$ for them right now.

1 more thing, what will lower control arms and sway bars do?

Norm Peterson

Two questions come to mind, (1) just how fast are you trying to take corners, and (2) what is your front tire pressure (and wheel width and tire size, since I'm not 'into' 20's myself)?

Konis
D-specs
maybe Bilsteins
everything else


Yes. The adjustability allows you to laterally center the axle. The PHB moves the axle laterally as the car is lowered, and the axle may not be centered closely enough for wide rear tires to begin with.


Aftermarket lower control arms (LCAs) typically ship with stiffer bushings that generally resist wheel hop better than the OE rubber bushings. Mostly, you're buying for the bushings . . . unless,

. . . you buy adjustable LCAs. These can be used to adjust pinion angle or get the rear axle steered straight (thrust angle = zero to the alignment guy) by altering their length via a screw adjustment mechanism.


"Sway" bars (more properly stabilizer bars, or sta-bars) are used to shift the handling balance and reduce the amount of roll in turns. Just what you want to change about the handling (more or less understeer, less or more oversteer) determines what you do here (bigger/smaller/adjustable/none) with either or both (front/rear).

Don't count on the rear bar to have much effect on how much roll you get, or plan to get one for that reason alone.


Norm

ILikeBond

Sounds to me like OP is describing understeer as his most noticeable and unwanted issue... That can be addressed significantly (I believe) and relatively cheaply with an aftermarket rear sway bar, such as BMR or Steeda.

I'll let the gurus speak now...