Rubrignitz

You don't HAVE to be in pain to look good but its going to cost you for sure. Camber bolts require the modding of your strut mounting holes. I would personally NEVER use camber bolts. Do it the right way and purchase some upper strut mounts that allow camber adjustment. Adjustable upper strut mounts are not just for track use but the preferred way to set camber on a lowered vehicle. The steeda HD mounts at full extension will only get you ~1.5 negative with a 1.5'' lower. That's no good. I can't personally recommend but the J&M or Maximum Motorsports will provide the desired range of adjustment (or close to it) w/o having to use camber bolts (ugh). That would be my first purchase if you plan to keep the car lowered that amount.

Don't worry about the rear for now, get the front straightened out first and you'll be much happier (and SAFER). A panhard will center your rear yet not required. If you have driveline vibration from an incorrectly adjusted pinion angle you will know it for sure. Anything in the rear-view mirror will not be viewable when you approach ~75-80mph.. believe me I know from experience. It's extremely noticable when your pinion is off...

I would look into some good adjustable upper strut mounts, these are invaluable on a lowered vehicle IMO and then a bumpsteer kit. Then start worrying about the rear supension if you don't notice a problem with it now.

GA05GT

+1

I have learned to spend the cash once not twice, the camber bolts are a cheap alternative that fit about 10 other cars... The caster/ camber plates you kill 2 birds with one stone, I personally am running the MM cc plates through American Muscle.com.

The camber bolts are not a comon facorty item, check the alighnment specs anywhere you go it says camber non adjustable... That is the reason why you will have to get camber bolts or CC plates.


Good luck.

gils maui pony

I bought this 06 GT 2 weeks ago and have been drooling over it more and more every day! I have spent 2500.oo $ in 2weeks on upgrades.. One last thing I would like is to get the stink bug effect out coming from the rear... being 1 inch higher than the front,,,Is it possible just to change the rear springs without comprimizing any front end dynamic?

Sleeper_08

Do a search in this forum for any one of the several threads talking about the Roush rear springs.

157dB

Readjusted?
You have to ask yourself the question "How did they become unadjusted".


They dont come OEM with Camber Bolts.
The Ford Workshop Manual states that
the lower strut mounting holes are to be
slotted if camber adjustments are needed
from the body being out of line.

His brother did the springs and the aftermartket
camber bolts may have been added at that time.

BumpSteer is just that, unwanted steering when
you hit a bump. At high speeds this can be dangerous.
Toodling around town in the low rider wont show
that much bumpsteer. It is more noticable at high
speeds.
The tie rod ends need to be level with the steering rack
for the bumpsteer to be at its minimum.
And simple math will show that an adjustable panhard
bar is not needed unless you have honking wide rear
rims and tires (you dont state the size(s) or offset(s)
of the 20" rims).

Norm Peterson

37,000 km is about 23,000 miles. Although that's a little low, depending on how you (and your brother) drive, it's not unreasonably low for performance tires. I don't ever expect to get more than 30,000 miles/50,000 km from any tire on any car that I own, though I usually get 25,000 (40,000). That said, I have pushed a couple of unexpectedly durable sets on my wife's car a little past 37000 (60000), with wet-weather performance being noticeably off in the last 6000 (10000).

It's not clear how even the wear is across the tread on your tires. If it's about the same all across the tread and the car doesn't pull to one side or otherwise drive oddly, the camber, toe, and inflation pressure is at least reasonably appropriate for your driving. If the inside shoulders (front tires) are more worn, that's most likely an alignment problem.

Assuming that it's off - fix it. Just throwing new tires at it only solves the matter of worn-out tire treads, and won't keep the new tires from suffering the same fate. About 30,000 km later you'd be right back where you are now with the front end all set to start munching on a third set of tires. The rear axle not being centered isn't a huge problem in most cases, although it can make the car behave a little differently in right turns vs lefts (though you'd have to be driving fairly hard to notice this).


Norm

abe86

So I went to the dealership on saturday and their suspension guy was there.. He actually seemed to understand the problem I had, and he tells me that they need to order the bolts, and so I wasted my saturday morning for nothing.

But thanks for the info guys. First time I use this forum and its been a great source of information. Definately in my favourites list. And i'll hopefully be posting a picture of my ride soon.

Z06 Killer

Well you could always just save yourself alot of money and swap me your springs for my stockers. Or you can buy my stock ones.... They have less than 10k miles on them. I swapped them out about a year after getting the car.