Will Lower Control Arms / Upper Control Arms Lower my E.T
#11
yeah i was thinking the rear end would move if i didnt load the suspension, but the directions that they sent me said to "support the vehicle at a safe working height with the suspension hanging freely." These directions came directly from the LCA manufacturer, but it was a writeup from stangnet. You would think they would give you correct instructions from the factory.
Anyway, if you've got the frame supported you can always use your hack to raise the diff and compress the suspension.
#12
Yeah, just make sure you do that BEFORE you remove the stock LCA bolts. It is a huge PITA trying to push the rear axle across the pavement while its jacked up, especially when your jack wheels sink into the crappy pavement in your apartment parking lot.
#13
Mabey it is that I have done it so many times, but I didnt have much difficulty doing mine, but I removed the rear axle all together and did an adjustable UCA, LCA, relocation brackets, and sanded/painted the rear axle. Later I added an adjustable PHR and PHR brace.
But the parts do make one hell of a differance, especially on a lowered car. I dont have track times to proove it, but I could spin through 3rd before, now I am planted at the bottom of second.
By the way I would not advise anyone take loose loaded suspension parts on jackstands in a parking lot.
But the parts do make one hell of a differance, especially on a lowered car. I dont have track times to proove it, but I could spin through 3rd before, now I am planted at the bottom of second.
By the way I would not advise anyone take loose loaded suspension parts on jackstands in a parking lot.
Last edited by Glengemen; 07-08-2009 at 11:02 PM.
#15
When I did my LCA's I did one side at a time and then I loaded the rear to torque everything down. I didn't have any issues with the rearend moving. The UCA was a pain because I didn't take the bracket all the way out and I had a hard time getting the right torque on it.
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