white_lightning

I have a 2007 Mustang GT with intake, SCT Tune, bassani x pipe, corsa exhaust. I'm looking to shave a couple more tenths from my E.T.

Will the LCA and UCA lower my ET's? I don't have any wheel hop now but watching videos of my car on the track I see the rear end squatting hard at launch and between 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

I'm looking at Steeda billet or BMR brands.

If that the suspension wont' help my times will an aluminum 1 piece driveshaft do anything?

Any help would be appreciated!

East87

I have just LCA's and the relocation brackets...I felt a very noticeable difference when launching at the track. Granted my launches sucked because I was on 235/50/18 OE tires, but there was NO wheel hop...my back tires were just spinning and squealing...not bouncing. I think that's why I managed to pull a 13.868 out of my *** during my 2nd run ever at a track. I think I can hit low 13's or a 12.9xx with my exhaust, 4.10's, shifter, k-member brace, and a little practice.

Vapour Trails

They will help put the power down more effectively, but they won't prevent squat. Stiffer springs & dampeners will reduce squat.

Yes an aluminum shaft will give you a tenth or two.

jahudso2

I just installed some J&M LCA's this evening. They say 1 hour install, but it took me 4 hours. As soon as you remove the bolts for the stock LCA, the rear end moves and its a b*tch getting the rear end back in place to get the new lca holes to line up. Just a heads up if you plan on doing a LCA install yourself.

Gene K

Unless you just want billet you dont really need them. The way the lca is stressed is in tension. Wheelhop issues come from the soft bushings not flex in the arm. As a matter of fact the biggest problem is the big soft bushing you can see through (It actually has slots to make it softer) in the UCA. You can eliminate all the wheel hop issues in most cases just by replacing the UCA bushings with poly. Take a look at a Roush Antihop Kit sometime.

The squat issue is an instant center issue. The only way they will improve launch is if they change the geometry. You have to get a UCA that has provisions for that such as the Steeda Competion UCA which has two different bolt locations for the arm. You usually have to clearance the tank a little to use the one you want. On the LCA you will likely have to change them since you usually cant use stock arms with relocation brackets (which is what you really need). The relocation brackets that do accept stock arms (that Ive seen) only allow you to use the lowest bolt hole. Ideally you want to weld in the relocation brackets and use the one that allows you to do the most tuning. Steeda is the best Ive seen for this.

Vapour Trails

Were you supporting the car by the axle? I installed the poly-ball LCAs from J&M last night as well. I didn't get any axle movement when installing. Today I noticed a squeak though, not enough lube I guess.

How do you like them so far? I found the ride indistinguishable from stock, no added NVH. I can definately feel the rear axle plant more effectively. With the stockers there was noticeable squirm in first and second gear. Great mod for $114, we'll just see how the bushings hold up (keep your receipt, lifetime warranty on bushings).

jahudso2

The instructions they sent me were to support the vehicle with the rear suspension freely hanging. It was from stangnet...... Then i looked on american muscle's website and their writeup says to have the suspension loaded. that would have been nice to know 4 hours ago when i was trying to push the whole damn axle a couple of inches.

I haven't driven it yet. I was working in the apartment parking lot on jack stands and i didnt want to track all that dirt and grease on my red leather. I'll take her for a spin tomorrow and see how she does. It is supposed to rain, so I'll see how the wheel hop situation goes.

Norm Peterson

Ummm, no.

LCAs are loaded in compression whenever you are accelerating, not tension. The rest of the tech looks OK, though. No comment either way with respect to specific vendors' parts.


jahudso2 - any time that you disassemble something that can potentially let the connected pieces move relative to each other, it's worth spending a moment thinking just how you're going to deal with that movement. And more importantly, how you're going to keep that movement under control so that you're working safely.


Norm

jahudso2

yeah i was thinking the rear end would move if i didnt load the suspension, but the directions that they sent me said to "support the vehicle at a safe working height with the suspension hanging freely." These directions came directly from the LCA manufacturer, but it was a writeup from stangnet. You would think they would give you correct instructions from the factory.

antonio1988

Absolutely the mods you mentioned will help, but everything has a certain job. I really do believe that a tubular or similar aftermarket LCA should be purchased along with a Steeda double adjustable control arm to get perfect geometry like others have already mentioned. I also installed an adjustable panhard bar with the LCA and UCA, and on 20" rims with thin tires, I went from a 2.14 60ft all the way down to 1.91 60ft and with D/R's I cut a 1.71 60ft