ffk_pennywise

You dont have to, but they'll wear out prematurely. At least on a 1.5" drop they will. You can always replace them later, but you'll have to do all that work of taking everything apart all over again. Thats what I'm doing. Couldnt afford shocks when I lowered so I'm doing it later. Next summer probably. Its not really a big deal, just know that you will have to do this sooner or later.

cdown16

Since we are touching on shocks/struts in regards to lowering at 1.5", is it necessary to purchase an adjustable panhard bar and camber bolts if you are installing a set of springs (Eibach Pro's) and shocks (Tokico D-specs)??

Adding to that, would it still be worth eventually going to adjustable UCA and LCA's as well?

ffk_pennywise

You'll need camber bolts (thats what I used) or plates for your alignment for sure. I didnt personally need a panhard bar. Some say they needed it. Depends on your car and your personal definition of "needs" I suppose.

cdown16

Would 20" wheels, staggered setup make a difference for adding additional parts (panhard, etc)?

Norm Peterson

Do you want a car that behaves more like a road-race car or a car that only looks like one?

Can you describe what it is about the stock handling that you aren't happy with? What happens, when does it happen, what doesn't it want to do kind of stuff. Include a description of how you're trying to make the car do whatever it is that you want it to be doing.

Listen to F1Fan, or give Sam Strano a call.


1.5" is already too low for best handling unless you're going to throw a LOT more at the car than just springs/struts/shocks and maybe an adjustable PHB. Words like welding, revised geometry, and "not DIY" come to mind.

Because it is not clear what you mean by "track car", is that open-tracking on a road course or drag racing (this matters, a lot).


Just my first impression, but when the appearance consideration is listed before performance (and that the appearance concern is described in greater detail), I suspect that the car really isn't being driven hard enough for it to matter a whole lot. Not intended as flame, so feel free to correct me if I'm a bit off the mark here.


Norm

Poco

If you drop the car more than 1 1/2" a panhard bar can re-center the rear end.I've lowered two different GT's and they both shifted to the right about 1/2".I use an Edelbrock panhard bar and it helped on both units.
As for struts and shocks I'm going to use the KONI's for my next set.I'm using Steeda non-adjustables and they ride like crap.They are supposed to be designed for the Steeda Sports I lowered my 07'GT with.

Paulejr13

ok. im not into big flashy rims on a muscle car. im runnning 16'' v6 black rims because they are light and they are fine. i have alllot of power mods like nitrous ex.. but have no suspension mods.

My deffenition of track car, is mostly 1/4 mile, but id like to do some back road racing for fun. but dont base my lowering off of this.

i want the car to look better not having such a wheel gap. and overall i think the handleing isnt too godd compared to my bmw 330. id like to just overall improve the handling. but number one if getting the wheel gap to be smaller and not look so goofy. i can see inside the rea wheel wells allot. but like i said i want the hadleing to be better, and i dont mind if its a tighter firmer ride quality, it not a luxery car.

tell me what i should buy, min. cost cause im doing another build right now

Norm Peterson

Then the first thing should be tires and probably wheels. 27" tall, 215/65-16 on ~7" wide rims aren't going to be the hot tip for handling. I don't like oversize wheels/tires either, but you need to look at something a little bigger than 16's. Doesn't need to be flashier, just wider and more cornering/handling-oriented on wider wheels to support the (wider) tread better.


That at least tells me that going a little lower than about an inch would be OK with you. But I still won't recommend anything over 1.5" lower.


I'm still fishing for what exactly you want it to be better at doing, and I don't want to lead you by mentioning what I might change if the car was mine. Just your thoughts without suggestions coming from me first. Try to separate the behavior - the way it "feels" - from any tire grip limitation.

BMW is a tough comparison, particularly since I've never driven one. What are the differences when you drive them over the same road at the same speed?


The question that nobody has asked yet - is your car a V6 or a GT? For cheap, if it's a sixxer, then take-off GT sta-bars would be a cost-effective step.


Norm

Paulejr13

this questions for my v6. i am running 245/60/16s so it better than 215 lol

and you are correct, the car doesnt FEEL good handleing. its not to bad just take a turn sometimes the rear jumps and such if i hit a slight elevatedd part in the road, and it just seems a little jumpy and sloppy back and forth.

gt take off sways would help this allot??

i think ill get gt front and rear sway, and maybe a 1'' drop?

the bmw just seems to plant better and doesnt roll and shift around a turn

Norm Peterson

Potentially better, yes. But not better in actual practice if they're mounted on the wheels that the 215/65's came on. Wide tires on narrow wheels tend to give cornering response that you'd perhaps describe as being "soft", "lazy", or even "unwilling" or "numb" in really bad cases. IOW, the car won't be as eager to turn corners when the tires lack lateral support. Oh yeah, the specific tire choice matters. Some tires are just "softer" than others as far as cornering response is concerned.


Blame that on the "stick axle" and the rear shocks (which should be your first step). As in before sta-bars (and even before springs, if your main requirement was to hold the cost down). With springs if you are lowering for appearance reasons.

The PHB can cause a little bit of lateral wandering if the rear suspension is rising/dropping a lot as you drive and you're sensitive to such things. But it doesn't sound like you want to spring for a Watts link, and an inch to an inch and a half of lowering will mostly level the PHB out for a car with only the driver or driver + front seat passenger on board anyway.


They should help by enough to notice. You will get somewhat flatter cornering and response should get a little sharper. For building up a more serious corner-carver you'd probably look past those even for a sixxer, but that doesn't appear to be the objective here.


Norm