Norm Peterson

Even that task can be a DIY. With some very simple measuring equipment (plus a reasonably flat set-up area and a bit of patience).


Norm

Paulejr13

how do you do a diy Alignment

FIRST IVE HEARD OF IT!


thanks for all the info guys

DanielKSpencer

Well, it's just $50.00 to get it digitally done at the Chevy Dealer, yes I said Chevy. My car won't go on the machine at the Ford Dealer. I like to know for sure I'm aligned perfectly.

I used to take my cars to this local shop that did it with, I guess you'd say, analogue equipment. It was only $20 there. Well, we got my girlfriend's car aligned when we put her new tires on and 9K miles later the fronts are worn out on the inside. Took it to the Chevy Dealer and her toe and camber were bad off. Won't go back to that guy anymore. I though he was a little too fast.

rford426

^ Doesn't that **** you off! I have a guy in a local club that takes care of me at the ford stealership hes a grease monkey and only person besides me thats touched my car. Too many shady ppl to trust her with anyone.

Norm Peterson

<don't tell anybody, but I used to work at a Chevy dealership>

"Perfect" alignment means different things to different people, and isn't even quite the same among people who drive mildly vs moderately hard.


My position is that any reasonably competent DIY'er can do this, and can probably work to within ±0.1°. Been doing all of mine for over 25 years (following an incident where I couldn't get the alignment tech to set one of my cars to my own specs for occasional autocross duty).

That goes off into "what do I do when the shop won't set the specs I want?". It's nice to not have that concern.


Paulejr13 - once you know what caster, camber, and toe are, the only tricky part is figuring out how to measure them. After that, it's mostly just turning wrenches (and re-measuring). You'll need a little knowledge of trig, and either the factory specs or a really good reason for setting something different. It's best that you learn about what these settings are and what they mean before I tell you how to get your hands dirty.


Norm

F1Fan

Hi Daniel,

Yes, several years ago when the Eibach ProKit sport springs were basically the only game in town I used to recommend the ProKit springs for conventioanl McPherson struts. I still do for some folks but in general the ProKits make poor springs for most folks in the real world. Once more springs got out on the market and I had seen a few cars with different springs to see how the ProKit springs compared and worked in the real world I decided the ProKit springs had issues.

The main issues with the FRPP M-5300-K / Eibach ProKit Sport springs is that they do not have any control over the weight of the car and progressive rate design springs can be sensitive to slight changes in weight when the chassis ride height is reduced so much due to the losses in suspension travel once lowered. The ProKit spring rates would be great if the ride height was not so low and the higher spring rates came in sooner in the spring's travel. But they don't work this way so I cannot recommend them as much as I used to.

I also found linear rate springs work better and feel more predictable on the S197 chassis. The linear rate springs also solve the problem with cars sitting on the bumpstops as most of them do not lower the car as much as the progressives do. This just works out for the S197 given the desired ride height, damper travel and spring rate increase and shorter static spring height. For the serious handling people there is no substitute for a coil over system. You can run MUCH higher spring rates with a coilover strut and they are much more adjustable and have many more tuning options.

HTH!!

DanielKSpencer

I bought my springs based on your write-up and planned on getting the D-specs later, also based on your write up. Do you still think since I already have the FRPP springs that the D-Specs are the best option. I don't track the car but I drive pretty agressive on some serious mountain roads.

If I could get set of shocks and struts that are a set rate that are well paired with the springs I have I'd rather. I figure they would be cheaper and I really only drive one way so I don't need a lot of options on my settings.