JeepNGLI

Now, don't flame me. I've done my panhard and sway bars using ramps. Is it possible to do the LCA's and UCA's using ramps as well? I ask b/c I've moved into a new place and my jacks stands/floor jack are a few hundred miles away. A buddy has a lift that I could use also if I want. I know if I use the lift, I have to then tighten everything when the car is on the ground. Any comments/suggestions on the rhino ramps/lift idea? Thanks.

Note: I have the UMI non-adjustable LCA's and UCA

Rube

You're going to want to do that work with the rear unloaded so use the lift. I wouldn't want to stick my hands in there and remove suspension parts with all that energy stored in the springs. Besides, it's hard to get the LCA forward bolt out with the wheel on.

If you are installing arms with poly or rod ends you can tighten them up without the weight on the wheels. Stock style arms with bushings that depend upon twisting rubber bonded to a shell and sleeve must be tightened at ride height or you'll end up preloading them. Poly or rod ends will rotate to wherever they need to be with no issues.

One thing to be aware of. I'm not sure if the bushing on top of the pumpkin is bonded so unless you are replacing that just assume it is and tighten that connection loaded.

If you're using adjustables not set to stock length you're going to have to have the suspension loaded to check the pinion angle so you're probably going to need the ramps too.

JeepNGLI

Rube, thanks for the help. This is what I have:



and



I went with non-adjustable. I don't seriously track and I'm only lower a tad(whatever the saleen suspension does).

So the lift should make this install pretty easy?

Rube

The lift is a lot more fun than lying on your back for a couple of hours.

Plan on dropping the back of the fuel tank 3" or so to get the upper control arm mount out with the control arm still mounted to it. I don't see how anybody gets the forward bolt out of the arm without doing that. I guess it's been done but I can't.

You might want to return those lower control arms and wait for UMI to release the version with the Roto-Joints. I hear they'll be out sometime around Christmas. I had BMR billet arms with poly on both ends it didn't work out.

Poly doesn't rebound and return to it's original shape as fast as rubber does when compressed so the center sleeve ends up with play between it and the bushing. It does eventually return to it's original shape but if you take off an arm just after driving around you can see that the sleeve is very loose. Poly bushings are not meant to be twisted as they are in this application. Poly works fine on the panhard bar since bushing rotates around the center sleeve and is not twisted (much) along it's center axis. The UMI arms with Poly on one side and a rod-end on the other work fine but they will clunk from time to time.

JeepNGLI

Rube, Thanks again. I'm gunna keep my UMI LCA's for now. I've talked to a few people with poly LCA's and they have no issues. I barely drive the car so its not like its getting a lot of wear. I think the few times every once and awhile that I beat on it will be fine. Plus, I'm not going all out with this car. I just wanted some upgraded traction to handle a little better. Those Roto-joints do look nice, but I read somewhere that in the end their no better than rod ends. Thanks for your suggestions tho, appreciate it!

If I do it one a lift(lifting from the side skirt rail locations), do I still need something to adjust the axle angle when tightening? No right, b/c I'm using non-adjustable LCA's that retain the stock LCA length.

And whats so bad about lying on back for a few hours? Its fun in bed!

brunobluto

Since you,re putting stock length arms back in, your pinion angle should be the same. That UCA is a big pita to replace. When i switched mine out, i had to nearly unbolt the entire axle in order to lower it enough to get my hand and a wrench up there. And the stock arm is difficult to get out too. You should also know, that new UCA is gonna introduce more driveline noise into the cabin, at least in my case it did. Its not really a big deal, just giving you a heads up.

JeepNGLI

Thanks brunobluto. I have heard about more driveline noise, but with the o/r X-pipe, I say bring on the noise! Not a big deal, but I have read that. The more I look at it the UCA is gunna be a pita to install. Not sure, but I might pass on installing it for awhile. Is it worth it?

brunobluto

Yea, im with you on the noise issue. Some people dont like it, but i say, the louder the better. From what i understand, the LCAs are more important for eliminating the infamous wheel hop our cars have stock. I would say you could skip the UCA install for now, and still make a big difference in performance with just the LCAs. BTW, my UCA is identical to the one you have.