What front rotors/pads
#11
Let's not turn this thread into why he's doing 100+ on the highway.
OP, I'm also looking for new rotors and pads for the same reason.
I heard good things about RotorPros. I was quoted $245 for 4 drilled/slotted rotors and an additional $75 for performance, low dust pads.
Now I'm not sure if I would go with drilled/slotted because they tend to crack under pressure.
OP, I'm also looking for new rotors and pads for the same reason.
I heard good things about RotorPros. I was quoted $245 for 4 drilled/slotted rotors and an additional $75 for performance, low dust pads.
Now I'm not sure if I would go with drilled/slotted because they tend to crack under pressure.
I am going to go ahead and purchase the rotors/pads sam suggested.
No comment on the highway speeds, but the Mustang brakes are fine for one stop, the multiple stops on a track overheat the pads and brake fluid.
The reason that I went with Carbotech is that their street pads and track pads are compatible on the same rotors, just change out the pads for the track. It's not that much more work to change the rotors also, but it gives you options like switching back to the street pads if you use up your track pads without carrying a spare set of rotors.
The Carbotech street pads do not work very well on the track, I would compare them to the stock pads.
Are you planning to do some track days? Harris Hill is about 30 miles South of Austin and I just got back from a weekend at Texas World Speedway which is about 120 miles away.
- Wayne
The reason that I went with Carbotech is that their street pads and track pads are compatible on the same rotors, just change out the pads for the track. It's not that much more work to change the rotors also, but it gives you options like switching back to the street pads if you use up your track pads without carrying a spare set of rotors.
The Carbotech street pads do not work very well on the track, I would compare them to the stock pads.
Are you planning to do some track days? Harris Hill is about 30 miles South of Austin and I just got back from a weekend at Texas World Speedway which is about 120 miles away.
- Wayne
Last edited by whtcanbrwnd04u; 12-13-2009 at 10:44 PM.
#12
i ran the HPS pads for almost a year and did a few track days (no autocross). they held up well with stock rotors. although i did change the lines and fluid. i would imagine that with the stock fluid and lines you may see more fade. But drivablity and durability don't necessaryly go hand and hand here.
good luck!
good luck!
#13
For a few track days a year, OEM rotors and pads are fine. Change your brake fluid and make sure you have at least 50% pads left for track days. Again, Ford heavy duty fluid is fine. Work on your driving skills at the track and just don't keep beating on your brakes. On the track you use the brakes maybe 5% of the time versus throttle 95% of the time and steering almost 100% of the time. So were should you spend your time improving your driving on a road course?
If you want to try new pads, I've had good luck with Hawk HPS and EBC yellows.
But I am usually easy on the brakes.
Cheers.
If you want to try new pads, I've had good luck with Hawk HPS and EBC yellows.
But I am usually easy on the brakes.
Cheers.
#14
lots of good info here. I cant believe in some threads people say our brakes are good. They overheat very fast and loose feel after 2 heavy braking situations. When im slowing down from "highway" speeds I get steeringwheel shake and real bad brake fade.
#15
How many miles?
How thick are the pads?
If replacement pads, did you bed them in properly?
I hate to keep preaching the same thing, but you only need better brake pads or bigger brakes if you are continually slowing down from high speeds, like 8-10 times in a two minute lap. But if you want big brakes for looks, then go for it.
#16
As many have said repeatedly here, the OEM brakes are fine for track use with a few minor upgrades. Fluid, pads and ducting are basically required for track use. Do those three things and you will find the stock brakes do just fine. Stainless lines are also a good safety mod.
Full disclosure: I finally did upgrade to the Brembos after 2 years on the stock calipers/rotors. I can now run ATE fluid instead of Motul with no hint of boiling, the pads last longer, there is better modulation of braking, and there is less pedal effort to lockup. No difference in overall straight line braking performance, though, as expected.
#17
My emphasis in bold above, I tried to make a point in this thread that the stock brakes are fine and don't LOSE feel or fade at Texas World Speedway on the Pirelli all-seasons. I also never got steering wheel shake at TWS and would suggest that there is something wrong with your brakes:
How many miles?
How thick are the pads?
If replacement pads, did you bed them in properly?
I hate to keep preaching the same thing, but you only need better brake pads or bigger brakes if you are continually slowing down from high speeds, like 8-10 times in a two minute lap. But if you want big brakes for looks, then go for it.
How many miles?
How thick are the pads?
If replacement pads, did you bed them in properly?
I hate to keep preaching the same thing, but you only need better brake pads or bigger brakes if you are continually slowing down from high speeds, like 8-10 times in a two minute lap. But if you want big brakes for looks, then go for it.
I tested the pads a couple days ago actually and they still were on the last green indicator (before the 3 yellow and 3 red indicators) on a pad testing tool. im on the stock pads still.
I guess im going to try some newer "take-off" rotors, flush and new brake fluid, and some Hawk street pads before I go big brake kit. I think my rotors/pads may be warped since i have steering wheel shake if I hit the brakes over 60+mph.
Where are you guys getting brake duct kits? or are you making them yourselves?
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