gmoran1469

That's why I do everything myself, unless I don't know how to do it.

Luckily we have a rack I can lift the stang up on to work on it.

Here is what I currently have for ducting:

Stock (mine is black, not that it matters):



Modified (red is where about the size of the inlet for ducting):



What I plan to do, open up the inlet for more surface area in an attempt to create greater pressure going through the ducting and have more air exit:




I think I would have to fab up some air scoops to mount behind the plastic. It's nice having the gt/cs, those platic mesh pieces just pop in to the bottom ground effect so I can plug the ducting when I am not on the course so I don't get water and whatnot shooting up in there.

RodeoFlyer

Yes, you missed quite a bit if you "have read through several guides".

Exactly what have you done for ducting? From your most recent post i'm curious what you have for inlets. How are your hoses mounted at the spindle? There are lots of Home Depot hack jobs out there that are worthless. These are a good start -

http://www.colemanracing.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=7350

Ceramic pads? What kind? What temp rating? That's like saying you use rubber tires - no ****.

Wilwood high temp fluid? I ASSume it's good enough, but what temp rating is it?

Do you have braided lines?

Are your ceramic pads PROPERLY bedded in? (Most people fail this very important procedure)

Do you bleed your brakes before every day on track? (Not every weekend - EACH day)

All of these things are important and make a measurable difference. Most guys that complain about the brakes either use them or maintain them improperly. Robin Burnet won an American Iron championship and LOTS of regional races with stock brakes.

The devil is in the details. Help us help you.

zero2sixd

Well, if high temp pads, fluid and OE rotors don't cut it for you, no OE size replacement rotor will fix your problem. Why? They're all very close to the same mass (heat sink capability) and surface area (heat dissipation capability). The only way to sink more heat is to have more mass in the rotor. Either way, if you drive hard enough you will overrun the heat sink capability of larger rotors.

That leaves upgrading to even higher temp brake pads and fluid and/or increased cooling via ducting. And, FWIW, I'm with RodeoFlyer on this one: what you describe is perfectly within the capability of the OE braking system when using Hawk track pads ("blues", HT-10, etc.), high temp fluid such as ATE Super Blue and proper ducting. I've done it, in 100 degree ambient temps even.

My experience was that effective ducting was the key. Higher temp. pads and fluid will only take you so far without effectively dissipating the heat in the rotor. That goes for both the OE rotor or 14" Brembos.

Edited to add: by effective ducting, I mean losing the OE dust shield and taking a 3" diameter duct on a fairly direct path to the rotor hat such that the air gets forced out through the rotor vanes, not just directing air into the wheel well in the general direction of the brake rotor. (Not saying this is what you did, just wanted to be clear about what I meant by effective ducting.)

gmoran1469

Sounds like I need to upgrade the size of my ducting then. And no it's not a home depot throw together. I designed the scoop myself, it's actually quite similiar to the one you posted other than it's just slightly smaller and goes to 2.5" ducting. I think I am going to redesign them though, much larger this time and completely do away with the platic backing for the cover plate and let it snap on to the scoop itself.... I don't have a camera for the next week or so (gotta love brothers who borrow things and then take them to other states) but I think I can scrounge up some pics of when I was constructing it to help show you guys. I also don't have braided lines so that may be an issue.

Edit: Could only find pics of it before construction (design phase).


This is what it looks like stock.

When you remove that plastic expanded metal looking piece in the front you get this:



I took that and made a scoop that bolts to the back of that platic piece so that when I remove the front (expanded metal looking) piece you get airflow (apparently not enough).



Now I'm thinking of doing away with the back plastic completely and replacing it with a scoop that I can clip the front piece onto.

houstonnw

It's not so much the scoop as how the duct is terminated at the rotor itself. Here are the Quantum Motorsports spindle ducts that I am using:



Notice how they direct the air at the center of the rotor so it can be forced out the vanes and also how it covers, a little, the center of the rotor.

If you just have the ducts pointing "at" or "near" the rotor it will not be as effective and can lead to cracking from uneven cooling.

-Wayne

gmoran1469

That's probably my problem then. They are pretty close to the rotor but I doubt they are as close as those mounts will get them since I had to make the mount myself. Well, looks like I got some more modifications to do.

Then again, seeing as how cheap those kits are from quantum it would be cheaper for me to just buy the kit.

Is the quantum kit a quality product or is there a kit out there I can get that has just as much value? How do they compare to the Agent47 kit for instance?

I see that quantum has the inlets for a cobra/cs. I have the CS which would make things much easier but then again agent 47 has the kit for the CS as well.

RodeoFlyer

For a street car, Agent 47 is by far the cleanest kit. You can source your own stuff from places such as Coleman and save some $$ for a small sacrifice in aestetics.

gmoran1469

Well, I have the setup to make my own and could, although I have never worked with fiberglass specifically. But I figure for the time I put into it I may as well get the A47 kit.

EDIT: Pulled the trigger on the A47 kit and also got the Cobra/CS replacement scoops.