Suspension upgrade
10-07-2015, 10:43 PM
#1
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Suspension upgrade
Been starting my research and read a lot of good things about the roush suspension package. Looking to upgrade from my stock suspension and this looks like a great overall package... Any opinions would be great. Other option that I read a lot about I koni yellows, but that is not a complete kit, which is kind of what I am looking for.... Looking to lower the car and be able to handle power. Anyone run the frpp kit? Any help would be greatly taken into consideration.... Throttles down.....
10-08-2015, 07:40 AM
#2
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Can you provide a link to a page that details exactly what's in the Roush kit? Some kits are much more complete than others. The FRPP kit may duplicate one or more parts that your car already has on it . . . as in identical.
By "able to handle power", are you referring to launch traction, traction from a roll in 2nd or higher, and/or elimination of wheel hop?
What I can tell you right off is that Koni yellows are decent shocks/struts for the money and better than the shocks & struts supplied in most kits (including FRPP's). But they may not tolerate much lowering long-term (at least not with the usual lowering spring rates, none of which are really firm enough for the amount lowered). An inch with BMR's 'handling springs', probably. With Sportlines, maybe not.
Norm
By "able to handle power", are you referring to launch traction, traction from a roll in 2nd or higher, and/or elimination of wheel hop?
What I can tell you right off is that Koni yellows are decent shocks/struts for the money and better than the shocks & struts supplied in most kits (including FRPP's). But they may not tolerate much lowering long-term (at least not with the usual lowering spring rates, none of which are really firm enough for the amount lowered). An inch with BMR's 'handling springs', probably. With Sportlines, maybe not.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-08-2015 at 08:12 AM.
10-08-2015, 09:16 AM
#3
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I am not sure on how to include the link, but the kit comes with springs, struts, sway bars, and jounce bumpers... Says it drops it about an inch, Adjustable panhard bar which I know I need when lowering car, and was also looking at wheel hop reduction kit... Again most of my info is just from reading. I think my main other thing to upgrade would be control arms. I apologize if I am saying crazy things, but just trying to learn and really make right decisions. As far as power I am gearing mainly for a fun street car. I am getting the roush tvs2300 sc with 3:73 gears at some point, and realize that stock suspension just won't cut it. I want to be able to hit the gas, most likely from a roll, and feel confident with total package. Thanks for the help in advance....
10-08-2015, 10:26 AM
#4
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Go to the page.
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With a supercharger you may not want 3.73's, as that will probably make 2nd gear traction-limited where you won't be able to use WOT even on dry pavement. But you will want rear control arms with firmer bushings, and here I'm going to suggest you do only one thing at a time here until the wheelhop is solved. LCAs first (mainly because they're the easiest to get at), then the UCA, and then LCA relocating brackets (finally with various adjustments). If the wheel hop stops happening before you've done the whole list, you might as well stop because doing any more won't get it any better than not happening.
An adjustable PHB is something I'd take a "wait and see" approach to. At an inch lower, there shouldn't be much axle movement to be correcting for. You do need to make sure that the before and after measurements are made with the car sitting with full weight on its wheels after driving it a little. And that the fasteners for any remaining rubber-bushed suspension arms/bars were loosened and retorqued after settling the suspension (may need ramps). Introducing prestress into the bushings may be accounting for some of the unexpected axle movement that people are reporting, because by geometry alone there just isn't that much.
Norm
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With a supercharger you may not want 3.73's, as that will probably make 2nd gear traction-limited where you won't be able to use WOT even on dry pavement. But you will want rear control arms with firmer bushings, and here I'm going to suggest you do only one thing at a time here until the wheelhop is solved. LCAs first (mainly because they're the easiest to get at), then the UCA, and then LCA relocating brackets (finally with various adjustments). If the wheel hop stops happening before you've done the whole list, you might as well stop because doing any more won't get it any better than not happening.
An adjustable PHB is something I'd take a "wait and see" approach to. At an inch lower, there shouldn't be much axle movement to be correcting for. You do need to make sure that the before and after measurements are made with the car sitting with full weight on its wheels after driving it a little. And that the fasteners for any remaining rubber-bushed suspension arms/bars were loosened and retorqued after settling the suspension (may need ramps). Introducing prestress into the bushings may be accounting for some of the unexpected axle movement that people are reporting, because by geometry alone there just isn't that much.
Norm
10-08-2015, 07:02 PM
#5
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http://www.brenspeed.com/m-fr3a-mgtaa.html
This was the ford racing set I was looking at. I hope I can talk about this car one day like you. I am always amazed of the knowledge some people have. This will be my first car I am going to modify. I have always had a sports car, but was never really able to hook it up. Now that I have house and my car is babied, I want to play..lol... What gearing would you recommend. Some people were originally telling me 4:10 but I think that is way to big especially that they say the roush sc is a high hitter in the low end. I like your idea about the lca and uca. I want to try to do it right the first time even if it takes me longer. Right now I just have cosmetic stuff done. I have borla exhaust and cai.... Again I appreciate your feedback and replies. If I get annoying, let me know. I can talk about my car all day... As we all probably can.
This was the ford racing set I was looking at. I hope I can talk about this car one day like you. I am always amazed of the knowledge some people have. This will be my first car I am going to modify. I have always had a sports car, but was never really able to hook it up. Now that I have house and my car is babied, I want to play..lol... What gearing would you recommend. Some people were originally telling me 4:10 but I think that is way to big especially that they say the roush sc is a high hitter in the low end. I like your idea about the lca and uca. I want to try to do it right the first time even if it takes me longer. Right now I just have cosmetic stuff done. I have borla exhaust and cai.... Again I appreciate your feedback and replies. If I get annoying, let me know. I can talk about my car all day... As we all probably can.
10-08-2015, 07:08 PM
#6
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http://www.roushperformance.com/part...2005-2010.html
This is the roush. If you haven't noticed I definitely lean more towards hooking my car up towards roush than Shelby....
This is the roush. If you haven't noticed I definitely lean more towards hooking my car up towards roush than Shelby....
10-09-2015, 08:33 AM
#7
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From the standpoint of suspension geometry, either one will be better than anything that lowers the car more than that, and overall considering the added roll stiffness better than what you've got now. I happen to want adjustability so I can tune it to where I want it, but that may be more than you or others care to get involved with. If you're comfortable that any kit supplier has set his kit's balance somewhere near where you might want it, go for it.
I have never seen rates posted for the Roush spring rates or what their sta-bar diameters are. But I assume that everything was put together with an appropriate sense of balance between performance, ride, and predictability (I knew a guy who worked at Roush, not sure what he did but he was pretty knowledgeable about brakes, suspensions, and undercar stuff in general). Some of FRPP's stuff is re-branded (I think the springs are from a well-known entity), but that doesn't mean it's mismatched or sub-standard by any means. It may just match a slightly different compromise point.
If you are ever going to get into handling more seriously - as in track days like my avatar picture shows - it doesn't seem to be too hard to do better. More than once I've lapped a Roush 427R on a 2.25 mile course inside of a 20 minute track session, and I don't think I'm anywhere near that good as a driver to be doing that just on talent. No matter how easy the other guy might be taking it.
Norm
I have never seen rates posted for the Roush spring rates or what their sta-bar diameters are. But I assume that everything was put together with an appropriate sense of balance between performance, ride, and predictability (I knew a guy who worked at Roush, not sure what he did but he was pretty knowledgeable about brakes, suspensions, and undercar stuff in general). Some of FRPP's stuff is re-branded (I think the springs are from a well-known entity), but that doesn't mean it's mismatched or sub-standard by any means. It may just match a slightly different compromise point.
If you are ever going to get into handling more seriously - as in track days like my avatar picture shows - it doesn't seem to be too hard to do better. More than once I've lapped a Roush 427R on a 2.25 mile course inside of a 20 minute track session, and I don't think I'm anywhere near that good as a driver to be doing that just on talent. No matter how easy the other guy might be taking it.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-09-2015 at 08:37 AM.
10-10-2015, 02:39 PM
#8
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Thanks norm for all your input.... I definitely Am leaning towards a kit. I just feel that everything will fit and go together the right way. I will let you know what I end up with. I think I am going with an adjustable shock for sure in case I decide to run the car on a track at some point, and can tone it down a little when wife is in car. Just try into make best decision so I can get the power to the floor..... Thanks again....
11-04-2015, 05:29 PM
#9
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Have not checked in here lately, but I can help you with parts selection. I'll tell you that I'm not a big fan of too many "kits" because they are mostly about putting together stuff that's easy to sell. Making cars work the best they can is a little more involved.
We have a LOT of options, even a bunch I just don't have on the website (I know, I need a damned IT department). But here's what you get if you work with me. Proven advice and suspension setups that work, and are tailored around what YOU do, and what YOU need.
Feel free to call me @ 814 849 3450.
We have a LOT of options, even a bunch I just don't have on the website (I know, I need a damned IT department). But here's what you get if you work with me. Proven advice and suspension setups that work, and are tailored around what YOU do, and what YOU need.
Feel free to call me @ 814 849 3450.
