Sleeper_08

I'm sure glad you responded as my budget requires that I get at least a full season (8 to 10 track days with 4 or 5 sessions per day) out of my new NT01s. If not I'll be back t my KDW2s.

How did you break yours in?

Philostang

Now THAT'S what I'm talking about! I too need these to last a full season (9 events, not all full weekends).

So if "sessions" means what I think it does (a 15-20 min. run) and we do 4-6 sessions per day, then we should be seeing around 14 -20 days (or 7-10 weekends/events). That will work.

-j

gmoran1469

I'd still like to know how braking is the preferred way to heat up the tires. Other than the residual heat caused by braking being transfered to the wheel and into the tire.

Maybe braking while in a turn and spinning out causes them to heat up?

And this is an instructor who said this?

And I can back up the wear. I was running the crap outta these things. They have barely worn at all. I've run three weekends on them now, one being a solo day so I only got about 20 laps that day but the other two weekends being full blown lapping days with 4 20 minute sessions.

I'm in the same boat you guys are in, I need these things to last, and they are, or so it appears.

We are trying to get registered as a licenesed dismantler at work. That way we can purchase insurance claims totals and part them out. A 08 GT goes to bid on Monday and I am gonna try to snag it if I can. Would make a great track car. The front has been wrecked but everything other than that and some parts near the radiator and the radiator is gravy for the track. Engine still good, everything from the front tires back is good, needs a new hood.

Red06

Well I guess I opened up a can of...

As far as braking vs zig zagging. I can only repeat what I was told. If you notice, F1 cars as well as cars in lesser series spend a lot of time speeding and slowing during the warm-up lap as well as zig zagging. In addition to the heat generated by the brakes, it seems to me that one can put more G's into a stop (during warm-up laps) than by zig zagging. Taking a corner at race speeds, that's another story. I'm not here to start a debate. I take it easy on the first lap or two to get the tires and brakes up to temperature then speed up from there so I really do neither. In a race situation, one doesn't have that luxury.

As far as tire life. I did caveat that I'm running narrower tires than most (245 vs 275). I checked my log and I ran six days on the set before I corded the outside edge. I run six to eight 20 minute sessions at our track events and more track time when we go to Calabogie for two days. There we run 30 minute sessions and there we have only two run groups or run open track. I flipped the tires on the rim after five days and should have done it earlier. The issue I have is the rear tires tuck under in the corners even running around 40 lbs pressure hot. This wears the outer edge of the tire which is where the cords come though. I do keep track of where the tires have been and move them around to try to even out the wear. I'm picking up a set of Sam's adjustable sway bars to see if I can dial out some of the rear roll. As always YMMV...

I'll attempt to attach a photo that shows the front's (-2 deg camber) looking nice and square in a turn but the rear's tucking under. I'm hoping that going to wider 275 width tires will help with the wear.

And yes I do push the car pretty hard. We have some very good drivers in the upper groups and the tendency is to keep up. I probably enter the corners too fast but with only 27 track days (and one LeMons race) under my belt, I in no way consider myself any kind of expert. I'm working on the finesse aspect of my driving and am definitely still learning.

Cheers,

Philostang

Hey Red, in your signature am I crazy or are you still running stock sway bars? If so, once Sam's bars go on you'll really even out.

That's a great shot of your sidewall deflection. I have one as well (on Toyo R1R, 245/40R18), but as you can see there's nowhere near the differential deflection seen on yours.
I run Eibach bars, and they made a huge difference.



Best,
-j

Red06

Yep, stock bars. Hopefully the new Strano bars will be here for install this weekend to take advantage of the great weather we're having. I'm looking forward to the improvement. The Miller cars had the FRP suspension (springs & bars by Eibach I'm told) and I really liked the balance.

I actually have a couple beter shots but they got too dark when I shrunk them down.

gmoran1469

Holy cow, that's a huge difference. Now I am sold, gonna order my strano kit as soon as I get some cash. I am running with the stockers as well.

Not to start a debate either but just to chime in:

Yes, you probably pull more G's on a fast stop than a turn but... The action of the tires sliding and not rolling causes the friction which heats up the tire. Basically, stopping in a straight line would only put downwards pressure on the tire, which I wouldn't think would be enough friction to cause as much heat as zig-zagging.

Philostang

Well here's an update. I finally heard from Nitto; here's what they had to say:

"Thank you for contacting Nitto Tire.

While the NT01 does not require a heat cycling, we would recommend it. The procedure we recommend for heat cycling tires would be to gradually bring the tires up to their optimum operating temperature, which is between 160 and 220 degrees F. After that, let them cool off over night and they should be ready to go the next day.

Thank you,
Alan Ngo
Nitto Technical Department"

Sounds like almost exactly the first advice I had been given by SoundGuyDave...

Best,
-j

Sleeper_08

According to Tire Rack, who don't sell Nittos, 'Avon, Hoosier, Kumho and Yokohama all recommend that their competition tires be "heat cycled" before being run in competition.'

Here is how they do it

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=66