Mike Maples

Mine was the same way...too much negative camber due to lowering. Find a GOOD alignment shop in your area and get some measurements from them . Most serious enthusiasts can tell you where one is and most of the really good ones are more "old school" than high tech. Mine was negative 1.5 degrees on one side and negative 1.25 on the other. That is actually within spec for the Mustang since factory spec is negative .75 with a plus/minus .75 tolerance. Can't say I like having that much tolerance.

Excessive camber won't wear the tires nearly as much as improper toe adjustment. Too much camber and too much toe at the same time will eat tires fast.

I used the Steeda Billet Camber Plates and Shims...love the set-up! Once they are set you would have to break the car to undo the camber adjustment. Now I'm dead on factory spec and the car handles great.

Lv XLR8N

i have -1.2 camber on each side and I like it.

Norm Peterson

Not with all production-line strut attachments, no. But that assumes OE springs and ride height, too. Basically that's applicable to cars with unmodified suspensions, which is an entirely reasonable limitation because the factory cannot anticipate changes made by the customer after the car is purchased. So they don't have to even try to be responsible for accommodating such changes.

Anything that allows moving either the strut top relative to the strut mount bolt holes in the strut tower or the strut angle relative to the steering knuckle provides you with camber adjustment. Camber or caster-camber plates (or slotting the strut tower holes) give you the first method. Camber bolts work by the second approach.


Mike - there also is a spec for cross-camber (difference between L and R cambers) of 0.7°, so it's not like you should ever have the full 1.5° difference side to side. Actually, allowing for larger tolerance lets Ford (and many other mfrs whose cars use front struts) get away with not providing a ready means of camber adjustment at all, or one that's good for only a few very small predetermined adjustments. It sounds sloppy when you work to ±0.1° or less, but apparently it's "good enough" such that most people don't notice anything being amiss.


Norm

Mike Maples

That's one reason I like the Steeda plates. Since I was using positive camber shims to bring my negative camber to an acceptable (to me ) level, I was able to adjust at 1/4 degree increments. Mine is -.65 on the drivers side and -.75 on the passenger side...just about perfect for the average road crown.