Suspension for a Daily Driver.
12-01-2010, 07:38 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 127
Suspension for a Daily Driver.
Hello, First of all I wanted to say I am a complete noob when it comes to suspension.
I live in New Jersey and the roads are sometimes very bumpy and full of potholes. I own a 2010 Mustang GT and it drives great, the suspension feels very nice on the stock 17". Now my question is I wanted to lower my car because In a couple of months I will be purchasing some 18" wheels and I have always loved the appearance of a lowered car.
This is a Daily driver, My car has 25,000 miles. Can i Just buy springs and use them with the stock shocks and struts? I know this question has been asked before, but I am left unclear whether I need to purchase struts or shocks, or both to have a smooth ride?
With that being said. Can you guys recommend me a suspension setup for a daily driver?
Springs
Shocks
Struts
and whatever else is needed, my initial spending limit not including labor is $1K.
This is not for use in the track or for racing, strictly for daily driving, appearance, and comfort. Links are greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your help guys.
I live in New Jersey and the roads are sometimes very bumpy and full of potholes. I own a 2010 Mustang GT and it drives great, the suspension feels very nice on the stock 17". Now my question is I wanted to lower my car because In a couple of months I will be purchasing some 18" wheels and I have always loved the appearance of a lowered car.
This is a Daily driver, My car has 25,000 miles. Can i Just buy springs and use them with the stock shocks and struts? I know this question has been asked before, but I am left unclear whether I need to purchase struts or shocks, or both to have a smooth ride?
With that being said. Can you guys recommend me a suspension setup for a daily driver?
Springs
Shocks
Struts
and whatever else is needed, my initial spending limit not including labor is $1K.
This is not for use in the track or for racing, strictly for daily driving, appearance, and comfort. Links are greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your help guys.
12-01-2010, 08:44 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pa
Posts: 178
I'm putting the Ford Racing K - Springs on mine this coming Fri and as others before me, I expect to be satisfied ! I'll report back after it's complete, expected drop is 1.5 inches. While mine is not a daily driver I see no reason why it couldn't be with this simple 'mod'
12-02-2010, 10:42 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Flanders, NJ
Posts: 408
Shocks should be done with lowering springs. That said Koni STR.T's and Steeda springs will probably be your best option and I think could be had for your price range. Call Sam Strano
www.stranoparts.com
www.stranoparts.com
12-02-2010, 12:07 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Harrisburg PA
Posts: 1,778
Do you have to do springs AND dampers together - No.
Should you do springs and dampers together - absolutely.
If you don't replace the OEM dampers at the same time as the lowering springs chances are you will be right back here in a couple months asking which dampers you should buy. Over the past few years I have seen numerous forum member ignore this advice and end up regretting their decision ultimately buying new dampers anyway and then needing to pull the car apart a second time.
Can't go wrong with buying from Sam, his advice and service is worth far more than the few bucks you'd save trying to find the right parts on your own via eBay or other high volume, low service vendors.
In addition to lowering springs and dampers you may also need an adjustable pan hard bar. Not everyone does - it depends on the drop and depends on your car (current rear offset and rim/tire width figure into this). I always advise folks to do the dampers and springs first, get them installed and then see if you can live with your rear axle now being out of alignment (lowering the car will cause the rear end to shift to the drivers side. It has to, there is no way around it since the PHB moves in an arc). The only question is - how far the rear shifts and whether or not you can tolerate it.
Should you do springs and dampers together - absolutely.
If you don't replace the OEM dampers at the same time as the lowering springs chances are you will be right back here in a couple months asking which dampers you should buy. Over the past few years I have seen numerous forum member ignore this advice and end up regretting their decision ultimately buying new dampers anyway and then needing to pull the car apart a second time.
Can't go wrong with buying from Sam, his advice and service is worth far more than the few bucks you'd save trying to find the right parts on your own via eBay or other high volume, low service vendors.
In addition to lowering springs and dampers you may also need an adjustable pan hard bar. Not everyone does - it depends on the drop and depends on your car (current rear offset and rim/tire width figure into this). I always advise folks to do the dampers and springs first, get them installed and then see if you can live with your rear axle now being out of alignment (lowering the car will cause the rear end to shift to the drivers side. It has to, there is no way around it since the PHB moves in an arc). The only question is - how far the rear shifts and whether or not you can tolerate it.
12-02-2010, 12:33 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 316
In an attempt to save you money, I will add my $.02 even though I am not a technical guy and am only quoting some expert advice.
The car pictured above belongs to the owner of Steeda Motorsports. I had an extensive test ride in it, and found it to be excellent; very comfortable and quite compliant. It has Steeda Sport Springs, and no other suspension mods. They were adamant that these springs are designed to work with the stock dampers, and unless you plan on racing you don't need to change anything else.
Since Steeda will be doing my mods when I get my car, it would have been easy for them to tell me I need to add this that and the other, I would have on their recomendation and they would have gotten more money out of me. The fact that they didn't try to do that says alot about them imo.
BTW Steedagus prefers the Ulktralight Springs which he says ride a bit better; they also lower the car a bit more.
Sorry for the long post, I hope it helped. Good luck.
The car pictured above belongs to the owner of Steeda Motorsports. I had an extensive test ride in it, and found it to be excellent; very comfortable and quite compliant. It has Steeda Sport Springs, and no other suspension mods. They were adamant that these springs are designed to work with the stock dampers, and unless you plan on racing you don't need to change anything else.
Since Steeda will be doing my mods when I get my car, it would have been easy for them to tell me I need to add this that and the other, I would have on their recomendation and they would have gotten more money out of me. The fact that they didn't try to do that says alot about them imo.
BTW Steedagus prefers the Ulktralight Springs which he says ride a bit better; they also lower the car a bit more.
Sorry for the long post, I hope it helped. Good luck.
12-02-2010, 01:39 PM
#6
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
Anytime I hear how lowering springs are designed to work with stock dampers I cringe--as it's a sales pitch. The stock dampers aren't that good--change those even with stock springs and the car works better. Asking them to control springs that are shorter AND stiffer than stock rates isn't going to make the dampers happy. Can you do it? Sure. Is it right? No more right than putting a bigger cam in, but because it's maybe a mild grind then saying that stock valve springs are perfect.
I understand that floridafordguy rode in that car.... in Florida. Not exactly Jersey, or where I am in Western PA. Also that's a new car, that's as good as those shocks will ever, ever be.
I've never been one to recommend everything in world, in fact I often talk folks out of things they think they need. But there are times, if you want things to work right, that you do need even if they cost a little bit of money. It's easier to make a sale if you can come in as the lowest bidder, so to speak.... I try and keep the tally down to reasonable level and only use what we need to do the job correctly. I guess there is just some difference in opinion about what is a good idea vs. what is only required.
I understand that floridafordguy rode in that car.... in Florida. Not exactly Jersey, or where I am in Western PA. Also that's a new car, that's as good as those shocks will ever, ever be.
I've never been one to recommend everything in world, in fact I often talk folks out of things they think they need. But there are times, if you want things to work right, that you do need even if they cost a little bit of money. It's easier to make a sale if you can come in as the lowest bidder, so to speak.... I try and keep the tally down to reasonable level and only use what we need to do the job correctly. I guess there is just some difference in opinion about what is a good idea vs. what is only required.
12-02-2010, 03:42 PM
#8
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
Koni's work great on stock springs. Had my '07 on stock springs for most of 3 years with Koni's, my '11 is on stock springs and Koni's (the front springs aren't all that much different on a Brembo car, the rears are stiffer though). Even my winter car, a '94 BMW 325is has Koni's on it--and stock springs. 
12-02-2010, 04:35 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 316
Anytime I hear how lowering springs are designed to work with stock dampers I cringe--as it's a sales pitch. The stock dampers aren't that good--change those even with stock springs and the car works better. Asking them to control springs that are shorter AND stiffer than stock rates isn't going to make the dampers happy. Can you do it? Sure. Is it right? No more right than putting a bigger cam in, but because it's maybe a mild grind then saying that stock valve springs are perfect.
I understand that floridafordguy rode in that car.... in Florida. Not exactly Jersey, or where I am in Western PA. Also that's a new car, that's as good as those shocks will ever, ever be.
I've never been one to recommend everything in world, in fact I often talk folks out of things they think they need. But there are times, if you want things to work right, that you do need even if they cost a little bit of money. It's easier to make a sale if you can come in as the lowest bidder, so to speak.... I try and keep the tally down to reasonable level and only use what we need to do the job correctly. I guess there is just some difference in opinion about what is a good idea vs. what is only required.
I understand that floridafordguy rode in that car.... in Florida. Not exactly Jersey, or where I am in Western PA. Also that's a new car, that's as good as those shocks will ever, ever be.
I've never been one to recommend everything in world, in fact I often talk folks out of things they think they need. But there are times, if you want things to work right, that you do need even if they cost a little bit of money. It's easier to make a sale if you can come in as the lowest bidder, so to speak.... I try and keep the tally down to reasonable level and only use what we need to do the job correctly. I guess there is just some difference in opinion about what is a good idea vs. what is only required.
Thanks for your input.