Roys07GT

Looking for some advice / expertise on what part(s) would help get 60' times lowered at the drag strip, I have UMI LCA's currently, all other suspension parts are stock, with Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial II's I have gotten into the high 1.8's for 60', most are low 1.9's. I must admit I don't know if the UMI LCA's helped with wheel hop or not as I also added 4.10 gears the same week.

I am considering adding the UMI Panhard Bar, UMI Upper Control Arm, and the LCA Relocation Brackets, although I am not opposed to other brands, I like that UMI is located and makes all parts in the USA.

Will the addition of UCA, Panhard, and LCA Relocation Brackets assist with 60' times, or is there a better combination to consider (UMI or other)? ...and "Yes" I know a "Driver Mod" would probably be the cheapest alternative :-)

I do drive the car almost daily when the weather permits and I have gotten used to the extra noise when the LCA's were installed.

UMI's claim on the Anti-Hop Kit Stage 1 (LCA's and Relocation Brackets) "Installing this kit immediately removed this unwanted wheel hop, allowed the car to launch and provided three tenths better in the 60-foot range. (Results may very depending on power levels and modifications)"

A Video from last season from inside the car (just tilt your head, LOL)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZvIbIMkqzA

everett

Panhard bar won't help launch. It isolates side to side movement

Norm Peterson

Wheel hop is mostly a control arm bushing thing, and sometimes stiffer engine mounts will help. If stiffer LCA bushings aren't enough to quiet a case of wheelhop, the next step would involve the upper arm.

Relo brackets get your rear tire planted a little more quickly for a little better initial "bite".

The PHB has only very small influence on short times, and if yours is reasonably level with you in the car as it sits ready to take the green - not nearly enough to worry about.


Norm

Roys07GT

Thank You for the replies. I am definitely going to get the relocation brackets and UCA. Will reply if/what helps with my 60' times, probably around June.

D BERRY

Ok, if it's mainly a control arm bushing thing, wouldn't replacing the bushings with poly be a good idea. Course cheap as control arms are it might be cheaper not to mention easier to go that way. This wheel hop deal isn't new, we used to sit in the stands in the mid sixtys and laugh at the GM boys wheel hop thier way down the track. Being a Mopar guy with a primitive leaf spring suspension I never had that trouble. It does boggle the mind that after all these years wheel hop is anything but a bad memory. While I'm here, I keep reading about adjustable shocks like Koni SAs but cannot find a source for them that fits anything after a 2009.

Dave

Norm Peterson

For drag racing, poly bushings are a simple solution that seems to work fairly well. For hard cornering and daily-drive ride quality, not so well.


Probably because from the OE mfr point of view things like ride quality and avoiding any risk of an owner getting into snap-oversteer take priority over dragstrip performance. If you actually managed to break something from hop, I suppose the mfrs would be withing their rights to deny warranty coverage (even while being entirely willing to sell upgraded parts through a *racing* subsidiary).

More is understood about bushings these days, things like voided bushings that could be stiff in the directions that best resist wheel hop and relatively soft in the directions more associated with cornering and one wheel bumps that tend to toss your head side to side. But then the cost goes up.

Link suspensions tend to be more sensitive to bushing stiffness, assuming that leaf spring wrap is kept under control. IIRC, Mopars used a pinion snubber and/or asymmetric springs.


Apparently the 2005 - 2010 yellows will fit the 2011 & up, provided that either some sort of spacer or the 2005 - 2010 upper strut mounts are also used.

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35


Norm

D BERRY

You sure are right about costs, on the Konis. Yes all of my Mopars had asymmetric springs on them, they also mounted the rear slightly toward the front of the springs. All I'm really interested in is occasional drag racing so I think I might control my wheel hop with the throttle. Although it doesn't seem as bad since the advent of warmer weather and the Firestone tires.

Dave

Norm Peterson

You might want to look into LCAs that have a polyurethane bushing at one end only, and some sort of spherical (Heim joint/roto-joint/Johnny joint/etc.) in the other. The J&M/Hotpart piece is somewhat similar, and there's at least one other solution I've seen over on pro-touring.com that I can't remember what it's called or who it's made by.


Tire compounds can be rather sensitive to temperature. Disclaimers like "not intended to be driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice" are there for a reason. My GY Asymmetrics don't like the cold either.


Norm