A few questions on upgrading brakes
11-22-2011, 03:03 PM
#11
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I guess I'm not seeing a lot of questions. If it's about the pads and fluid you mentioned, I have different preferences. Hawk Ceramics aren't anything special, and in fact I hated the ones I had on my '07 GT, and preferred the HPS. There are also HP+, and I do EBC as well as a lot of others like Porterfield, PFC, PowerStop Z16, ATE makes pads for it too. Lots of choices.
Generally HPS are the one we go with as the power is good, but not stupid grabby. They are readily available, work cold, etc.
DOT5 fluid isn't what you want, not at all. It is silicone based and not at all compatible with glycol based DOT 3,4, or 5.1 fluids. There are lots of DOT 4 fluids that well exceed the DOT 4 spec. I mean basic ATE SuperBlue has a dry boiling point of 536 and a wet of 388, way above the specification of 436/311. I like Brembo LCF600+ and Motul RBF600 a lot, they are both very thick and give great pedal feel. The ATE is screaming bang for the buck.
You might be interested to note I have a brake kit that has ATE rotors, HPS pads, Goodridge stainless lines and Brembo fluid for $705.... http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=226&ModelID=5
Again there are other options for all the above, but I put that kit together because I think it's the best performing street kit for the most number of folks. You might want something beyond, and we can talk about it.
Generally HPS are the one we go with as the power is good, but not stupid grabby. They are readily available, work cold, etc.
DOT5 fluid isn't what you want, not at all. It is silicone based and not at all compatible with glycol based DOT 3,4, or 5.1 fluids. There are lots of DOT 4 fluids that well exceed the DOT 4 spec. I mean basic ATE SuperBlue has a dry boiling point of 536 and a wet of 388, way above the specification of 436/311. I like Brembo LCF600+ and Motul RBF600 a lot, they are both very thick and give great pedal feel. The ATE is screaming bang for the buck.
You might be interested to note I have a brake kit that has ATE rotors, HPS pads, Goodridge stainless lines and Brembo fluid for $705.... http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=226&ModelID=5
Again there are other options for all the above, but I put that kit together because I think it's the best performing street kit for the most number of folks. You might want something beyond, and we can talk about it.
11-22-2011, 03:23 PM
#12
Gotcha. The DOT 5 was something I thought I was told to check out before but it's been about a year since then so I'm not sure. Lol. Depending on money, I may go for your package. That seems like a really good price for all of it compared to some places I looked at.
Not sure if the stainless lines are really needed, plus I have "heard" that they rust and need replacing more often?
Not sure if the stainless lines are really needed, plus I have "heard" that they rust and need replacing more often?
11-22-2011, 03:40 PM
#13
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Welcome to the internet where Stainless Steel rusts, and DOT 5 silicone fluid is good to use in anything....
Both are wrong, wrong, wrong. Last I checked stainless sell doesn't rust. And DOT5 silicone is only good for stored cars. It isn't compatible with anything, and it expands a lot and gives all kinds of screwball issues when it gets warm.
Both are wrong, wrong, wrong. Last I checked stainless sell doesn't rust. And DOT5 silicone is only good for stored cars. It isn't compatible with anything, and it expands a lot and gives all kinds of screwball issues when it gets warm.
11-22-2011, 03:55 PM
#14
Lol. Yeah idk why I thought that it would rust.. my freaking axlebacks are stainless steel.. Wow I feel stupid.. Hahaha.
The DOT 5 was just a guess. Don't really think it was what was mentioned as the person I was talking to was Jazzer. I guess I should have checked my old thread first. Haha.
Sorry for my own stupidity.
The DOT 5 was just a guess. Don't really think it was what was mentioned as the person I was talking to was Jazzer. I guess I should have checked my old thread first. Haha.
Sorry for my own stupidity.
11-22-2011, 04:01 PM
#15
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Don't be sorry. It's easy for things you hear, as silly as they might be, to stick.
To be very honest I spend about 75% of the time on the phone with people debunking myths and heresay. Lately a lot of that time is trying to explain to folks why all people don't need to change their LCA's.
To be very honest I spend about 75% of the time on the phone with people debunking myths and heresay. Lately a lot of that time is trying to explain to folks why all people don't need to change their LCA's.
11-22-2011, 04:49 PM
#16
Yeah I'm sure. After I get my brakes situated I'll be starting to save for lowering my car and will be going to you for that.
But first I need to make sure I can stop my car, safely. I will more than likely be getting the money up for the brakes soon as Christmas is around the corner. I'll call you and get them ordered.
Can you tell me how I could check to see if my rotors are warped though?
But first I need to make sure I can stop my car, safely. I will more than likely be getting the money up for the brakes soon as Christmas is around the corner. I'll call you and get them ordered.
Can you tell me how I could check to see if my rotors are warped though?
11-22-2011, 05:36 PM
#17
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If it shakes when on the brakes, they are warped... at least the fronts (and probably only the fronts as they are the ones that do the most work).
IF you want you could put a dial indicator on them and measure the run-out.
IF you want you could put a dial indicator on them and measure the run-out.
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