ZPounds07GT

So.. my front rotors are warped and my back rotors and pads are metal to metal so I'm going to need new rotors all around. I figured I would go ahead and replace all the rotors and pads while upgrading, hoping to keep from warping again and maybe getting some better performance. People tend to slam on their brakes here at the last second and I would like to make sure not to run into them.

I'm looking at Powerslot Slotted Rotors front and back, Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads. I want to upgrade the brake fluid when I do this and want to know which ones work well. I'm looking at doing a DOT 5 fluid but don't know the differences between brands or if that matters at all.

I also am looking to know how the slotted and drilled rotors add to performance and everyone's experiences with these listed products.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Argonaut

You can do a search on this subject, its been beat to death over the years, but here are the basics:

- There are two versions of DOT 5 fluid. There is the silicon which you do not want! and then there is the newer non-silicon spec, which is hard to find and pretty much not used in my experience. Personally for street only use I recommend good old DOT 3. If you have track aspirations or brake abnormally hard then Dot 4 would be the choice but really there is no use going to Dot 4 unless you are having brake fade issues (mushy pedal when you get the brakes really hot). Dot 4 does nothing for you as far as improving brake performance. All it does is remain stable at higher temps.
- For the most part slotted and drilled are nothing but bling. They will not improve performance. The marketing crap you read from the manufacturers is just that...crap. In fact under extreme conditions drilled rotors have a tendency to crack prematurely. But they look good...just don't expect them to work any better than an OEM rotor.
- Any ceramic brake pad is good for: wear, low dust, low noise. But in general bad for performance. It’s a tradeoff - what’s more important - a good aggressive, knock your teeth out bite when you hit the brakes, with its inevitable noise and dust; or quiet, low dust, lackluster performance. Your choice but you can't have it all. It really depends on what’s more important to you. Hawk HPS is a very popular high end street pad with the Stang crowd.

ZPounds07GT

Sorry to make it overkill.. I tried to look up some info but not all of it and didn't get anything on what I did look for.

Would I be better off to get a non-slotted/drilled rotor in order to keep from warping again? Everything I see that isn't slotted is really cheap and makes me worry about quality so I don't really know which to go with.

I guess I will go with the HPS pads that I originally thought about. The noise I wasn't real sure about though because I didn't know what "noise" entailed.. just a slight noise of friction or a noise the resembles a squeal.

Should I just replace the rotors with OEM rotors?

JAJ

The OEM Ford rotors are good quality. So are the pads for that matter. If you want good performance with minimal risk, that's the way to go. Everything else is a guess.

Argonaut

The only thing I'm saying about slotted or drilled rotors is not to expect any improvement in braking performance, i.e. they won't make the car stop in a shorter distance. Like all things - there are good rotors and junk rotors, doesn't mater if they are smooth, slotted or drilled. Powerslot seems to make a decent rotor, so if you like the look and don't mind spending the extra $...go for them. The OEM rotors are also decent and seem to hold up well so the fact that you warped them is puzzling. I've used them extensively on a race track and never wrarped one (granted I have brake cooling ducts).

Is there anything you can think of that would explain how they became warped? Do they show signs of spider cracking (very small, hairline cracks) - this would indicate prolonged and repeated overheating. Are you sure they are warped and its not just pad deposits (overheated pads can smear onto the rotor face and create irregulatities that cause the brake pedal to pulse just like a warped rotor). If there is a crack in the rotor that goes all the way to the edge that will also cause a pulsing in the pedal.

At any rate, with normal usage OEM quality rotors should not warp. Maybe you got a bad set...hard to say.

ZPounds07GT

Before the point that I noticed the car was jerking when applying the brakes and the wheel moving side to side when braking I had not applied them in any irregular way. I have reached ABS a few times but this was after I already experienced the jerking and shaking.

I had the brakes checked out by a tech at Kauffman Tire and they said the front rotors could be machined down so that there is no jerking and shaking. But if it's already warped I would rather just replace them and be done with it.

I obviously don't want to spend any more money than I have to but I do want to see an improvement. If the slotted/drilled don't show any improvement then I don't see the point in buying them and spending the extra money.

Wayno

I would definately check to see if they are REALLY warped. Warping is really, really really thrown around alot due to something called pad transferrence. (do some research)Race cars rarely warp rotors and they are under way more stress then you will ever do on the street.

More often shops will tell someone their rotors are warped because they cannot cut them due to the pad transfer and to get more money out of you due to ignorance.

Maybe your Johnson rod caused the warpage.

ZPounds07GT

Well how would I check it to see if it's warped? Eyeing it isn't a sufficient means of measurement.

I would imagine race car parts are made to handle an amount of stress excess to what they experience due to the higher speeds and temps. Stronger and thicker metal I would think.

I could have a dealer check them if need be?

Sam Strano

I have a number of options for brake rotors. One of the best that isn't a million bucks are the ATE rotors which are $69 each for a 2005-2010 GT or 2011 V-6. They are coated and slotted, and really good rotors. I also carry other brands all the way up to DBA's 5000 series 2-piece rotors.

And I also do brake pads (and lines, and fluid too).

I'd be happy to help.

ZPounds07GT

Gotcha, yeah I meant to check your site, I guess it slipped my mind. Do you think you could shed some light on the questions?