locotone07

I just attempted the rear shock install. The instructions included indicates 37 ft/lbs for an M12 (which is what the threaded piston measures). When I attempted to torque the nuts the rubber bushings got so compressed that the spilled out way past the washers, in fact I couldn’t get them to 37 ft/lbs, tried 26 ft/lbs (spec’ed for M10) still could couldn’t get there (as in the torque wrench didn't click) as the washer still looked way too compressed. I finally settled on the pics below.
As you can see the rubber bushings still exceeds the width of the washer but this amount of bushing compression is as comfortable as I feel they should be compressed. Would you believe this is 10 ft/lbs? Am I doing something wrong? I used two different torque wrenches (one of which was recently calibrated to +/- 1%), same result. What do you guys think?

Whiskey11

When I installed my d-specs I didn't bother with a torque wrench to get the tops tight, I just tightened it down to "damn tight" and called it a day. 500 miles later and they are still tight enough. It may not be the correct way to do it, but it works!

locotone07

At 10 ft/lbs, mine are far from "damn tight" but the rubber bushings are already bulging past the washers, any tighter and they look really 'squished' but the lack of torque also has me concerned...what to do?

dcarlinf1

Sounds to me like they are "tight enough". Or, maybe that is what she said?

jlwdvm

I'm in the same boat with my Koni Yellows. I am doing Strano sway bars and Brembos too. I'M having a hard time finding what all these different bolts need to be torqued to. Couldn"t figure out how to get a torque wrench on the front strut to get the Steeda HD mounts torqued down. Called Steeda and they said to just tap it a few times with an impact. How are you getting a qorque reading with out the shaft spinning?

locotone07

I'm not on my fronts yet, but my rears pistons are not spinning, so I used a deep socket. But if they were spinning I suppose I'd use a crowfoot/socket wrench attachment, although I'm not sure how the torque values translate vs. a regular socket.

Stin42

I can't speak to your Koni's but my Bilsteins needed an Allen wrench and a crescent wrench. The Allen wrench goes in the top to hold in place and you tighten around it. But my electric impact bypasses that problem now.

MustangFirstCar

I would just leave it how you have it and check it in a few days, see if it came loose at all.

Import_Slaya

I snugged the rear Konis until the bushings just started to bulge. Definitely not tighter than yours. Several months and a couple of track days without issue.

JAJ

About five years ago I bought a special strut wrench that goes over the nut and is open through so you can put a socket wrench down inside to hold the strut shaft while you turn. Good investment.

The risk when you use an impact gun on the strut nut is that the other end of the strut rod is attached inside the strut tube with a nut, and the one inside is a lot smaller than the big one you're hammering on. While you're banging away on one end with the impact gun, you might just be creating a problem for yourself at the other end.