Steeda Sports and Koni STR.T installed
#11
gmoran, if you want a Watt's Link, go for it. I am just saying it is not a necessity. The adjustable panhard rod I installed did what it was supposed to. It centered the rear which was about 5mm off after installing Koni STR.T's and Steeda Sport Springs. The average driver does not need a $650+ Watt's Link, IMO. The UMI 1055 PHB does exactly what it is designed to do and is a good product for the daily driver.
Based on the geometry of the PHB and the way it is attached to the rear end, and the angle that it is at, a 1.25" drop should equate to around 2-3mm, not 5 IIRC, I don't have the calcs in front of me.
Basically, it's not worth it to even upgrade the panhard unless you are gonna go watts link. The difference between an aftermarket adj. PHB and the stock PHB is not much at all unless you are going with a serious drop. The only difference is in the ends of the PHB, whether it be urethane or rod-end, they are gonna be stiffer than the rubber bushing on the stock one. As far as the rear-end centering, it's almost a non-issue with such a mild drop.
I've swapped back and forth from my UMI 1055 to my stocker. The UMI is adjusted just ever so slightly shorter than the stock one is. The only noticeable difference between the two is the rod-ends on the 1055 as opposed to the rubber on the stocker. The car tracks the same and the rear-end still walks just as bad when traveling vertically.
Last edited by gmoran1469; 04-16-2012 at 10:34 AM.
#13
OK Dad! I'm speaking from my experience here. They are junk and a complete waste of money. Like I said, if you HAVE the money, get a Watts link because you won't run into the issues I have had with my ****ty PHB (Which is actually one of the best on the market).
Last edited by bakerjd; 04-16-2012 at 11:15 AM.
#14
Sorry, there as a 5mm difference in my measurements and I adjusted it half of that, 2.5mm or so.
JD - You said it yourself in your first post. "If I weren't (tracking the car), it would be sufficient." That's all I am saying.
OP - Car looks great BTW!
JD - You said it yourself in your first post. "If I weren't (tracking the car), it would be sufficient." That's all I am saying.
OP - Car looks great BTW!
#15
I guess I will need a panhard bar. The driver's side is 3/8" closer to the fender than the passenger side. Any thoughts on the J&M bar? http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-adj-panhard-0512.html Looks pretty nice for the $.
Last edited by safetyfastgt; 04-16-2012 at 08:00 PM.
#17
I guess I will need a panhard bar. The driver's side is 3/8" closer to the fender than the passenger side. Any thoughts on the J&M bar? http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-adj-panhard-0512.html Looks pretty nice for the $.
That doesn't sound right.
You sure you are on completely level ground?
If the rear end is not parallel with the unibody then the measurement will be off.
#18
#19
well i just bought the j&m panhard bar, just to make sure its center, while i agree the watts link its the best way to go , for my daily driver im happy to pay a 100 bucks just to center my rear end nothing else. it all comes down to what you want out of yuor car, or how much you want to spend
#20
I guess I will need a panhard bar. The driver's side is 3/8" closer to the fender than the passenger side. Any thoughts on the J&M bar? http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-adj-panhard-0512.html Looks pretty nice for the $.
I wouldn't bother with it. I have a Watts link and I'm 1/8" off center and it makes absolutely no difference to how the car drives.