UPRSharad

Interesting question. I can say that for my car, I tightened the PHB with the car under a load, not with the axle suspended. Another interesting tidbit is that plenty of people report having their rear ends offset when their cars are 100% stock.

GT50GO

Being a newbie to the Mustang world can you or someone explain the procedure to measure the offset with the car under a load.

Thanks

UPRSharad

With the car sitting on the ground, tape a piece of string to your quarter panel. Tie a lugnut to the end of the string. Measure the distance between the sidewall and the string.

GT50GO

Thanks, I'll check that out tomorrow and if necessary will definitely get your adjustable PHB if necessary since lowering.

hurricaneduc

I'm replacing my stock 17" rims and tires soon with the combo 18" combo set from American Muscle and would most definitely lower it. So my understanding from reading some of these recommendations would be:

A. Inexpensive, lowering springs and panhard bar
B. The whole 9 yards (shocks, struts, springs, sway bars ect.) Would the panhard bar have to be added to this set up also?

I'm a weekend driver and sometimes I like push it a little bit but I want to be able to tolerate a 4 hr ride to Vegas. The Eibach Pro set up at American Muscle looks like a good bargain. Also, I think that the better the suspension the less tire wear. I guess the question is how serious do I really want to get?

07graygt

I just did my 07 gt. the only thing i replaced was the springs. took it to the alignment shop had it aligned shop said everything was good. I does ride a little stiff cuz i didnt change shock or struts. but i think its fine as for axle shifting i had no problems with that, but that maybe just my car. i used ford k springs and its a good look. i plan on running 255 45 18s in the front and 285 40 18s in the rear.

157dB

44" PH bar at a 3 degree angle from the road surface
at ride height. Lower vehicle 2 inches and there is
not 1/4" of sideways movement. I am going with Norm
on this one and say that the OEM PH bar is either not
of the correct length from the factory OEM and lowering
just compounds this issue further or the failure of loosening
the PH mounting bolts when the loweringsprings are installed
and thghtening them back up with the rear end at ride height.
I went with the Prothane PH bushings and the rear end is
centered nicely. Tightening at ride height is not needed with
poly bushings unlike the OEM molded to rubber bushings.
In fact, my stang has more Prothane bushings on it than OEM
rubber bushings at this point. As the removed rubber bushings
bag in the garage would suggest.

vistablue46

...got a question:

At thes moderat lowering levels around 1.5" is there a need for an adjustable UCA?

I have the FRPP shocks and springs from the handling pack for my vert.

SteedaBrandon

We do recommend them for anytime you lower the vehicle, as anytime you lower it you're changing the pinion angle.

It all depends on what your purposes are, the amount of drop, and ultimately what you find acceptable.

We've got a real solid adjustable UCA here: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...ntrol-arm.html

Let me know if I can help you with that.