best lower rear control arms?
11-13-2012, 01:47 AM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,313
On car adjustable rear LCAs can be used to adjust pinion angle if lowered and still with stock UCA. The stiffer bushings help reduce wheel hop. Bushing type can vary from rubber to polyurethane, to rod ends. NVH increases with stiffer bushings so there is a give and take.
I like my Spohn on car adjustable poly/spherical joint LCAs.
I like my Spohn on car adjustable poly/spherical joint LCAs.
Last edited by UrS4; 12-05-2012 at 01:25 AM.
11-13-2012, 11:31 AM
#3
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: n/a
Posts: 778
If this is your daily driver and you don't track it, non-adjustables will suit you just fine.
Check out our upper and lower control arms and let me know if I can help you with anything: http://www.steeda.com/store/ford-mus...trol-arms.html
11-13-2012, 05:09 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 410
yeah i know you told me that before and thats what I planned on doing, I was just wondering whats the use of getting it. I read in hotrod that our lower rear control arms were crap but I was wondering whats the use of getting the adjustables over non
11-15-2012, 07:34 PM
#6
These UPR control arms are made with tubular chrome-moly (strong construction) and they use custom designed Energy Suspension bushings (better control of the axle). They are Made in America and they carry a Lifetime Guarantee. I have these same arms on my car with UPR's S197 Handling Package and they keep the rear end well planted in the corners. We're also running these same non adjustable LCAs on UPR's 2010 GT which runs 9s in the quarter mile, so they are very versatile.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ushing-05.html
Apparently upgraded LCAs aren't super useful at parking lot speeds, but most people consider them a necessity for performance driving.
11-15-2012, 07:54 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: WA
Posts: 1,514
I agree with Sam. After I lowered my car (sportlines/eibach strut/shocks/mm c/c plates/bmr panhard bar), my wheel hop was no longer a concern. I have no need to fiddle with the the lca's
11-16-2012, 09:12 AM
#9
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: n/a
Posts: 778
Wheel hop is not a one size fits all situation and can be approached in different ways to be resolved.
Depending on your horsepower level and how you drive you car, you may get wheel hop or you might not.
The most common cause of wheel hop is typically the deflection that occurs from soft bushings and flexing of the trailing arms themselves. However as many have reported just doing springs got rid of wheel hop. The reason for that is the change in geometry that occurs when you lower the car.
In simple terms, lowering the car changes your rear suspension geometry and reduces weight transfer. If you have stock control arms and you are reducing weight transfer you are reducing the loads on the suspension that produce the suspension deflection associated with wheel hop, hence wheel hop tends to go away.
However, the underlying cause is really the rear trailing arms and their soft bushings. Whenever I have a customer trying to resolve a wheel hop issue I immediately suggest a set of rear lower arms. For most people, this alone will take care of 90 to 100% of their wheel hop issues.
Higher horsepower and aggressive driving styles can still leave room for some wheel hop if you still have the stock upper 3rd link and bushings. Replacing the upper 3rd link after the lowers are done or doing both at the same time will eliminate wheel hop completely at any power level for a street car on street tires/drag radials. If you regularly drive on slicks you will have to compromise on your bushing choice and move away from full urethane to a urethane/spherical bushing combination if you want longevity. Bushing failure can become an issue with slicks/high rpm launches and you will also introduce significant NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) into the vehicle.
Depending on your horsepower level and how you drive you car, you may get wheel hop or you might not.
The most common cause of wheel hop is typically the deflection that occurs from soft bushings and flexing of the trailing arms themselves. However as many have reported just doing springs got rid of wheel hop. The reason for that is the change in geometry that occurs when you lower the car.
In simple terms, lowering the car changes your rear suspension geometry and reduces weight transfer. If you have stock control arms and you are reducing weight transfer you are reducing the loads on the suspension that produce the suspension deflection associated with wheel hop, hence wheel hop tends to go away.
However, the underlying cause is really the rear trailing arms and their soft bushings. Whenever I have a customer trying to resolve a wheel hop issue I immediately suggest a set of rear lower arms. For most people, this alone will take care of 90 to 100% of their wheel hop issues.
Higher horsepower and aggressive driving styles can still leave room for some wheel hop if you still have the stock upper 3rd link and bushings. Replacing the upper 3rd link after the lowers are done or doing both at the same time will eliminate wheel hop completely at any power level for a street car on street tires/drag radials. If you regularly drive on slicks you will have to compromise on your bushing choice and move away from full urethane to a urethane/spherical bushing combination if you want longevity. Bushing failure can become an issue with slicks/high rpm launches and you will also introduce significant NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) into the vehicle.
