DRock

So your telling me the poly bushings provide the exact same improvement as te rod ends?

Yea yea ok

UrS4

Wheel hop is not my main concern. Cornering, eliminating axle bind, and preventing instances of snap oversteer are. Don't see how a poly axle bushing is the same as a rod end in its ability to prevent bind.

Sam Strano

Axle articulation is important, and if you use Poly bushings at both ends of the control arm, and then have a control arm that is boxed or tubular, or otherwise doesn't allow longitudinal flex, then the body will get drug around way more than you want when you hit bumps, dips, etc.

So, I'm going to wholeheartedly disagree with Sharad on this, and I do so as someone who does indeed carry arms that use poly at both ends (doesn't mean they are my preference). And the truth is those are an easier sell, because they cost less, but they do not allow the articulation you want. See also the reason the stock bushings have gaps cut in them top and bottom (for articulation).

Derf00

I too was going to suggest the FRPP front LCA's. In late 08 ford upgraded the ball joint on all mustang GT's to a slightly larger diameter. Basically the same as those seen on the GT500 2007+. At the same time, Ford began offering the GT500 front LCA's as an 'upgrade' for all 05+ Mustang GTs.

Aside from the beefier ball joints, the GT500 arms offer higher durometer bushings.

05WIMustang

What replacement lower control arms are the "best bang" for the buck for OEM like performance? Those GT500 are pricey, correct ?

UrS4

They seem pretty cheap if you are talking about the GT500 front LCAs.

UrS4

So, I went ahead and ordered replacement parts for my spohn rear lower control arms. I upgraded to the Delrin Pivot joints. They arrived fast, thanks Spohn. Went to put them on the car, the replacement parts are slightly longer that the rod end joints they replace, no problem as these are adjustable arms. Well after hours of penetrating oil, as much muscle as I could muster, I couldn't get the jam nut loose on one arm and I couldn't adjust the other even though I got the jam nut loose. I guess 5 winters in the upper midwest were to blame. So, in not wanting to live with the rattle any longer and to prove to myself that the rod ends were the cause of the rattle, I put the stock LCAs back on.

Rattle completely gone. But these are my driving impressions: rear has a tiny bit more body roll and has a bit more bite around fast corners. I think I could correct this back to how it rode before by going to the third hole in the rear sway bar, currently in the middle hole. A tiny bit of wheel hop has returned on wet roads.

So I am returning the new replacement pivot joints and need to decide if I want to stay with the stock rear LCAs and either adjust the rear sway bar or just adjust my driving or get new rear LCAs with the new Delrin pivot joints.

Thoughts?

Norm Peterson

Now that you have the adjustables off the car and the originals on, you aren't under any time pressure to rebuild them.

But if you're noticing more roll with the OE LCAs (and it's not just the slightly softer axle location), at least one end of each of the aftermarket LCAs may have bound up.


Norm

UrS4

Good point Norm.

Yes my plan was to get all new LCAs. While the cost of new arms is nothing compared to a new set of rims and tires, going to a larger 18 inch wheel and wider rubber may also "firm up" the rear again due to less sidewall flex. I'm curious as to how much increased wear the stock UCA and LCAs will have with the stiffer springs, shocks, sways, and poly/rod panhard bar. Maybe then I will change all three out at the same time.

I wonder your opinion on getting solid LCAs and adjustable UCA vs solid UCA and adjustable LCAs? Wouldn't think I would need both adjustable. I guess the adjustable UCA can only correct pinion angle while the LCAs can adjust pinion angle and my alignment.

Norm Peterson

As I see it, OE bushings get beat up mostly from distortion, which isn't always quite the same thing as what the "obvious" loads cause.

The apparent effect of launch loads - that more force is involved - means greater bushing compression/distortion. This would stay virtually the same after swapping springs/bars/dampers.

If anything, the distortion due to cornering [roll] would be slightly less due to the roll itself presumably being slightly less. That does assume that you aren't using enough more of the car's capability to hold the distortions the same as before or greater.


If you're only going to do one or the other, or if you think you might do them in stages on an "as necessary" basis, go with the LCAs (first).


Norm