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Upgraded tire suggestions/ need to hook off the line/nitto?

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Old 02-08-2013, 11:54 PM
  #21  
mustang racer06
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Ok. Opinion time. As stated before, AM gave me the set up 245/45/17 in front and 275/40/17 rear. I was planning on using these tire sizes on my stock 17x8 inch rims vs buying their preset wheel and tire package. ( the nitto555 with 18in staggered setup, for the sake of $) So, is it worth just sticking with changing the tires and staying 17x8 vs upgrading the rim size, or is it I shell out the cash for the bigger rims and be glad I did kinda thing? Would I need to recalibrate the spedo for any of these? And lastly, if I stick with these tire sizes I stated before vs their preset combos, can I go bigger in the front say a 255/50 vs 245/45? LMK what you guys think. Thanks
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:31 PM
  #22  
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have you considered a square setup, such as 265/45R17. and you would have the option to rotate your tires to help with wear while avoiding purchasing new rims.
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:35 AM
  #23  
mustang racer06
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Yeahhh... Just wasnt sure if thatl be enough rubber for me. I liked the staggered set up
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:10 PM
  #24  
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OK guys, I know this is an old post, but im buyin the wheels and tires this week. I wanted to go with the 255/45/18 and 275/40/18 in the rear. The car is lowered 1.5 inches and i wanted to fill in the wheel gap alittle and ik that the new aspect ratio is smaller. Could i fit the 295/45/18 on my lowered s197? Is it worth keeping an 18inch rim in the front and a bigger rim in the back? LMK
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:42 PM
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VistaBlueFrank68
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275 on an 8" = a round contact surface or a floaty feel. not reassuring at 120 mph.
255x45x18 on 9" 275x40x18 on 10" is standard you might get away with the 255 on your old rims but no on the 275 and as for 295 on the lowered. Most recommendations I get were for 285s, 295s you'll need an adjustable pan-hard bar because one side will touch. even if it's close, on a bounce your axil will push over to the - Look at the Pan hard bar, the axil will push in the direction of the end that's attached to the axil.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:46 PM
  #26  
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Also try the LCA relocation brackets for wheel hop. They are around $150 and must be welded on. I think they look like the next best thing to the 70's yellow traction bars in the bad old leaf spring days.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:47 PM
  #27  
mustang racer06
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I have an adjustable pan hard bar but not installed yet. Would i need that if i just stuck with the 275/40/18 18x10 in the rear?
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:05 PM
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CMcNam
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Originally Posted by mustang racer06
I have an adjustable pan hard bar but not installed yet. Would i need that if i just stuck with the 275/40/18 18x10 in the rear?
It's not required at all, but if your car is lowered enough it can shift the body to one side over the axle (mine's shifted over .5" right now until I can put on my new parts) and that is more noticeable with wider rear tires. If it's just a small shift, it may not even be noticeable.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:18 PM
  #29  
TheDivaDanielle
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Originally Posted by CMcNam
It's not required at all, but if your car is lowered enough it can shift the body to one side over the axle (mine's shifted over .5" right now until I can put on my new parts) and that is more noticeable with wider rear tires. If it's just a small shift, it may not even be noticeable.
agree here, an adjustable PHB like the BMR is good investment and will keep it centered. I know with my FRPP K Springs the axle shifted a good bit, and then later when I installed my 20x10's with a 34mm offset and a 295/30R20 out back that being off something like a 1/2" would have meant my wheels and tires wouldn't have even fit under the rear. As is, I need to get under there and shift the axle to the left about 1/8" because on hard bumps the right side will rub a little.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:58 PM
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yeah like right now, with the stock set up, i cant notice any difference in axle shift. Also, no body likes the idea of going with bigger rims in the back? just for appearance
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