Upgraded tire suggestions/ need to hook off the line/nitto?
#21
Ok. Opinion time. As stated before, AM gave me the set up 245/45/17 in front and 275/40/17 rear. I was planning on using these tire sizes on my stock 17x8 inch rims vs buying their preset wheel and tire package. ( the nitto555 with 18in staggered setup, for the sake of $) So, is it worth just sticking with changing the tires and staying 17x8 vs upgrading the rim size, or is it I shell out the cash for the bigger rims and be glad I did kinda thing? Would I need to recalibrate the spedo for any of these? And lastly, if I stick with these tire sizes I stated before vs their preset combos, can I go bigger in the front say a 255/50 vs 245/45? LMK what you guys think. Thanks
#24
OK guys, I know this is an old post, but im buyin the wheels and tires this week. I wanted to go with the 255/45/18 and 275/40/18 in the rear. The car is lowered 1.5 inches and i wanted to fill in the wheel gap alittle and ik that the new aspect ratio is smaller. Could i fit the 295/45/18 on my lowered s197? Is it worth keeping an 18inch rim in the front and a bigger rim in the back? LMK
#25
275 on an 8" = a round contact surface or a floaty feel. not reassuring at 120 mph.
255x45x18 on 9" 275x40x18 on 10" is standard you might get away with the 255 on your old rims but no on the 275 and as for 295 on the lowered. Most recommendations I get were for 285s, 295s you'll need an adjustable pan-hard bar because one side will touch. even if it's close, on a bounce your axil will push over to the - Look at the Pan hard bar, the axil will push in the direction of the end that's attached to the axil.
255x45x18 on 9" 275x40x18 on 10" is standard you might get away with the 255 on your old rims but no on the 275 and as for 295 on the lowered. Most recommendations I get were for 285s, 295s you'll need an adjustable pan-hard bar because one side will touch. even if it's close, on a bounce your axil will push over to the - Look at the Pan hard bar, the axil will push in the direction of the end that's attached to the axil.
#26
Also try the LCA relocation brackets for wheel hop. They are around $150 and must be welded on. I think they look like the next best thing to the 70's yellow traction bars in the bad old leaf spring days.
#28
It's not required at all, but if your car is lowered enough it can shift the body to one side over the axle (mine's shifted over .5" right now until I can put on my new parts) and that is more noticeable with wider rear tires. If it's just a small shift, it may not even be noticeable.
#29
It's not required at all, but if your car is lowered enough it can shift the body to one side over the axle (mine's shifted over .5" right now until I can put on my new parts) and that is more noticeable with wider rear tires. If it's just a small shift, it may not even be noticeable.