Making 2005 GT competitive with 2003 Boxster S
#11
No one has any recommendations on springs? I just got back from the dealership and a very very long trip around the block and the car is mine. lol Now its time to order some parts. I am at a stand still on which parts I want. I already ordered a tuner and that will be my only go fast part for a while. I want to make this car feel locked down on the track but also drive-able on the the street. All the brands out there seem to want to drop the car as low as possible which just creates more problems than it fixes on the track. So far I've found H&R sports and the steeda ultra light and sport which all lower the car about 1 inch. Are there any others that lower about an inch and are a bit more sporty? I'm pretty set on the koni sports but are there any other shocks that I should look at before I buy the sports or are there any springs that match well with the koni sports. Like I said before I have always been a fan of whiteline sways but I have read some mediocre reviews on them here so what are all the racers and ax people using? Then I will need a panhard bar, I'm guessing they are all pretty much the same and haven't spent much time looking into them. That will be my first set of parts and I will figure out what I need from there. Any recommendations would be great.
#12
Agreed, Sam will educate you on what items do what and their combinations to not waste time.
I recommend the watts link because after I got my Saleen springs, shocks, and sway bars, the only other item that made that dramatic of a difference past those 3 items for cornering and rear stability was the watts link.
Everyone with a pan hard bar can feel their car "butt slide" or butt jump" over cornering bumps. Erik
I recommend the watts link because after I got my Saleen springs, shocks, and sway bars, the only other item that made that dramatic of a difference past those 3 items for cornering and rear stability was the watts link.
Everyone with a pan hard bar can feel their car "butt slide" or butt jump" over cornering bumps. Erik
#13
Tires (wider) and wheels (ditto) should be an early part of the plan. At least have something in mind.
Norm
#14
I have lots of track time in my 07 GT, heres my 2 cents:
- The factory ECU calibration is extremly conservative and the throttle response very lazy. Without a doubt my first mod is to get an intake and tune. Car responds to throttle inputs much better.
- Stock suspension is too soft and the dampers are mediocre.
- The first thing you will want is good dampers (read Koni adjustables unless you have big budget)
- And decent springs (there are many) with only a slight drop (~1 inch. More than that and you are messing with the geometry).
- Tires will be your single biggest contributor to higher corner speeds and shorter stopping distances. Get a set of high end summer tires, like Nitto NT05 or similar.
- Stock brakes needs some work as soon as you start pushing them. The stage 1 upgrade is track pads (Hawk, Carbotech, etc.), Dot 4 fluid, brake ducts and SS lines.
- Setting your toe to zero or even slightly toe out really makes the car feel like it turns in quick.
- Getting a set of adjustable camber plates is even better - add some negative camber and the front will start to stick better.
- There is a lot of built in understeer, so at first this will feel familiar to you (coming from FWD). An adjustable rear sway can help balance the car.
- I wouldn't even think about control arms or watts link unless you have money to burn. Very small contributions to lower lap times. Watts may add a little confidence to you but keep in mind there are a heck of a lot of very fast road racing chassis using a PHB (see ASA, NASCAR, type stock cars).
- The stock seat is horrible for track - slide all over the place. A CG lock will help a lot but I always ended up with sore knees anyway (bracing my body in the turns). Even better would be proper seat, harness bar and harnesses - slippery slope here.
- Which differential gear set does this car have? 3.55 work ok. 3.73 is really nice on shorter tracks (under 120 max or so). 4.10 is to low for most tracks.
Given the above I think your race with the Boxster would be a drivers race. I've seen many, many Boxsters on the track and most of them are in my rear view mirror. They don't have enough HP on the straights to keep up. But then I've also seen a turbo charged Cayman that blew my doors off...LOL.
- The factory ECU calibration is extremly conservative and the throttle response very lazy. Without a doubt my first mod is to get an intake and tune. Car responds to throttle inputs much better.
- Stock suspension is too soft and the dampers are mediocre.
- The first thing you will want is good dampers (read Koni adjustables unless you have big budget)
- And decent springs (there are many) with only a slight drop (~1 inch. More than that and you are messing with the geometry).
- Tires will be your single biggest contributor to higher corner speeds and shorter stopping distances. Get a set of high end summer tires, like Nitto NT05 or similar.
- Stock brakes needs some work as soon as you start pushing them. The stage 1 upgrade is track pads (Hawk, Carbotech, etc.), Dot 4 fluid, brake ducts and SS lines.
- Setting your toe to zero or even slightly toe out really makes the car feel like it turns in quick.
- Getting a set of adjustable camber plates is even better - add some negative camber and the front will start to stick better.
- There is a lot of built in understeer, so at first this will feel familiar to you (coming from FWD). An adjustable rear sway can help balance the car.
- I wouldn't even think about control arms or watts link unless you have money to burn. Very small contributions to lower lap times. Watts may add a little confidence to you but keep in mind there are a heck of a lot of very fast road racing chassis using a PHB (see ASA, NASCAR, type stock cars).
- The stock seat is horrible for track - slide all over the place. A CG lock will help a lot but I always ended up with sore knees anyway (bracing my body in the turns). Even better would be proper seat, harness bar and harnesses - slippery slope here.
- Which differential gear set does this car have? 3.55 work ok. 3.73 is really nice on shorter tracks (under 120 max or so). 4.10 is to low for most tracks.
Given the above I think your race with the Boxster would be a drivers race. I've seen many, many Boxsters on the track and most of them are in my rear view mirror. They don't have enough HP on the straights to keep up. But then I've also seen a turbo charged Cayman that blew my doors off...LOL.
#16
A setup like mine, with some sticky tires, won't have any problems taking care of a boxter s if you have the driver mod.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...g-package.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...g-package.html
#17
Ford racing K springs. They are 1.5 inch or less. I think the rear is 1.5 and the front is closer to 1.25. Add rear lower control arms and adjustable pan hard bar. Adjustable shocks and struts.
There are so many different control arms and pan hard bars available. I'm not sure which you would want for a street/track car. Probably something with a combination of spherical bearings and bushings or a sperical/delrin setup like spohn makes. http://www.spohn.net/shop/2005-2008-...ot-Joints.html
You are going to need better ball joints for the track. You can just replace the stock front lower control arms with gt500 lca's, which have a better ball joint.
#18
A setup like mine, with some sticky tires, won't have any problems taking care of a boxter s if you have the driver mod.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...g-package.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...g-package.html
#19
I've seriously considered fabbing up some sort of shimming/spacing/adjustable spring seat so that I could buy springs with the rates I want and be able to set the ride height where I want that to be.
Norm
#20