CMcNam

I haven't used a variety of control arms to make a specific recommendation, but I think you'll find the right ones in your price range. I know Sam Strano has the whole line of UMI control arms that fall in that price range and he hasn't steered anyone wrong here yet. I went with the J&M Extreme arms because they fit my needs of articulation and price, combined with a daily driver. I haven't had a chance to drive on them so I can't say how well they work yet.

moosestang

The J&M extreme joint lca's are a good compromise between poly/poly and poly/rod end. I think I paid less than $200 for mine. A poly/poly arm is going to bind on the street and I don't recommend running one. You will either crack the bushings or the arm! I corner hard, I do not spare the tires at all.

I did break a CHE adjustable lca, but I believe my axle being off 1/2 inch on one side was partly to blame. Still, I don't like the way Che welds the threaded rod to the bushing housing. There are better designs for adjustable control arms. Non-adjustable lca's are lighter, cheaper and for the most part stronger.

I wouldn't even recommend relocation brackets unless you are going to lower the back more than 1 inch. They will improve traction, but on a stock height car it may give a harsher ride. My car is lowered 1.5 inches and my lower control arms are at a 1-2 degree downward angle from front to rear mounting points. You don't want to much angle to the control arms.



I'm still unsure why I need my passenger side control arm shorter than the drivers side. I'd like to blame the CHE relocation brackets, but it could just be my car.

UPRSharad

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ushing-05.html

^^those UPR arms are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and mf.com members get a discount on them. Most importantly, they are durable and they work really well. (tubular chrome-moly and Energy Suspension bushings)