changing rear axle housing upper control arm bushing?
#21
hey moosestang i just got my prothane kit from american muscle and my rear axel bushing is too small from where the stock came out of. im also noticing on your pictures, that yours looks way diffrent then mine. what year is your mustang? mine is an 07 GT. excuse my noobness! lol
Mines an 06. Did you get the full poly bushing kit? I don't see just the axle housing bushing listed on their site.
the bushing is two pieces, looks like this
Last edited by moosestang; 04-10-2013 at 09:44 PM.
#22
yes. diameter wise. it movers around. i figured we would have to use the stock sleeve. and yes i bought the full prothane kit. and yes we presed out the stock one. so is it ok to still use the metal sleeve? another question, do you know if for the rear lower control arms i need to use the stock sleeve aswell or that can be replaced entirely? i really appreciate your feedback man, thanks!!!
#23
yes. diameter wise. it movers around. i figured we would have to use the stock sleeve. and yes i bought the full prothane kit. and yes we presed out the stock one. so is it ok to still use the metal sleeve? another question, do you know if for the rear lower control arms i need to use the stock sleeve aswell or that can be replaced entirely? i really appreciate your feedback man, thanks!!!
I assume you need to reuse the stock sleeve on the lower control arms, but I would just replace the control arms with aftermarket. The rear bushing on the LCA's is offset to push the arms towards the wheel, so keep that in mind when changing them. I assume the prothane bushings are also offset.
I'm selling a set of J&M extreme joint lower control arms. They will work better than a poly/poly stock arm. Just lowered the price to $60, since they are older than I thought. See my other post in this forum for why I changed to an adjustable lower control arm. If you are adding relocation brackets, I strongly recommend adjustable lower control arms.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/part...ml#post8191105
Last edited by moosestang; 04-11-2013 at 05:48 AM.
#24
I hear some people say it should be on the body side and others say on the axle side, but based on four years of physics, that doesn't make any sense to me. The motion of the control arm will more closely follow the motion of whichever end has the poly bushing. IOW, if the poly bushing is on the body, the arm will stay lined up with the body, while the axle side spherical will allow the axle to articulate. Conversely, if the poly bushing is on the axle side, the arm will stay lined up with the axle ear, while the body side spherical will allow the suspension to articulate. If there are two sphericals (like a double adjustable arm), the arm will go wherever it wants to go. You can reach up and twist it by hand. But there is no bind, and the suspension WORKS!
#25
Thanks. Let me know if you ever need anything.
I hear some people say it should be on the body side and others say on the axle side, but based on four years of physics, that doesn't make any sense to me. The motion of the control arm will more closely follow the motion of whichever end has the poly bushing. IOW, if the poly bushing is on the body, the arm will stay lined up with the body, while the axle side spherical will allow the axle to articulate. Conversely, if the poly bushing is on the axle side, the arm will stay lined up with the axle ear, while the body side spherical will allow the suspension to articulate. If there are two sphericals (like a double adjustable arm), the arm will go wherever it wants to go. You can reach up and twist it by hand. But there is no bind, and the suspension WORKS!
I hear some people say it should be on the body side and others say on the axle side, but based on four years of physics, that doesn't make any sense to me. The motion of the control arm will more closely follow the motion of whichever end has the poly bushing. IOW, if the poly bushing is on the body, the arm will stay lined up with the body, while the axle side spherical will allow the axle to articulate. Conversely, if the poly bushing is on the axle side, the arm will stay lined up with the axle ear, while the body side spherical will allow the suspension to articulate. If there are two sphericals (like a double adjustable arm), the arm will go wherever it wants to go. You can reach up and twist it by hand. But there is no bind, and the suspension WORKS!
Just got the spohn upper control arm del-sphere joint, bearing, whatever it is called. I don't know how they make these, but I swear it looks like they carve them out of a solid block of steel. It's definitely not a threaded rod welded to some steel tubing. Figured I should install some steeda anti-clunk washers as well.
#26
Found it. This may be added to my near-future mod list: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ricals-05.html
#27
I went ahead and ordered this. I can't say enough good about the UPR rod-end bushing LCAs and panhard bar, so I figured I'd complete the package. Thanks for convincing me to spend more money on parts, moose. You're good at that, lol. As always, I'll review the UPR UCA, mount and spherical bearing after I've had a chance to install them and run them down the track. Not that I'm worried, everything I've bought from them has been flawless thus far.
I had to take the spohn joint off my UCA, it was to harsh on sharp bumps. I'm going to keep running the poly/poly upper arm until something breaks. You will love how solid the rear axle will feel.
#28
#29
I went ahead and ordered this. I can't say enough good about the UPR rod-end bushing LCAs and panhard bar, so I figured I'd complete the package. Thanks for convincing me to spend more money on parts, moose. You're good at that, lol. As always, I'll review the UPR UCA, mount and spherical bearing after I've had a chance to install them and run them down the track. Not that I'm worried, everything I've bought from them has been flawless thus far.
#30