MOTRHD

No one had Sub frame connectors on their list. IMO, they are the first step in any suspension build. You don't know how much the body flexes until you get rid of it, the flex that is. Then whatever combo you use you get the proper function of that piece. Built mine for the highway and the occasional stop light dance but combo worked out perfect, that being a mix of STEEDA, FRPP, and a little Shelby thrown in. As far a springs, just want to say that I will never use another progressive rate spring in another car in my life.

notsofast

OP, I had a 2006 GT with many of the same mods you have on yours. I hadn't been introduced to the financially ruinous hobby of track driving at that time, but based on recent experience with other track cars and my experience with the 06 GT, I think I can offer a few suggestions.
First of all, the track time recommendation given by others is spot on. You will improve the most by driving and instruction.
Second, I'd do a sensible upgrade on the brakes - nothing over the top like a big brake kit (at least not yet), just a good quality, high-temp brake fluid like Motul, ATE, or Castrol SRF (if money really is not object!), stainless steel brake lines, and a pad that will withstand track use (I use Hawk HT-10s. There are quite a few options).
And finally, while I generally would not recommend doing a whole lot to the suspension at first, your OEM shocks are the weak link especially with your stiffer Eibach springs. I had the exact same set up for a short while on my 06 GT, and the ride was horrible. Went to Koni STR.Ts and Steeda sports (On Sam Strano's advice) and this change alone literally transformed the handling and improved the ride quality as a DD.
After you get more seat time you'll start to figure out where changes are and are not needed. At some point, after you've had more seat time, you might consider something like an AIM Solo lap timer so you can more objectively measure and assess what you and the car are doing.

MOTRHD

I just swapped my Eibach's for STEEDA sports and it is a day and night difference. Only got the rears on so far but it feels so much more solid and "squared" off. Gone is the bouncy feel of the progressive rate spring leaving just the firmness of consistent spring rate. Can't wait to do the fronts this week with STEEDA strut mounts. I am also running the BFG G sport Comp 2, which for all the tires I have been through they are the best tires I have ever used. Compared to the Nittos, dry traction is better and there is never a question when it's wet, and I live in Florida and we get lots of rain. As far as brakes, I feel the factory brakes are pretty good, upgrade to braided steel lines and good pads. Then if you chew up rotors, get new ones. Unless of course your pockets are deep and you go with big brake set up, but I would rather spend that money elsewhere.

Norm Peterson

Particularly on the early S197's - up to at least 2008 - you really want to be running the camber plates once your driving gets harder than "mild to moderate". I'll make an unrestricted exception for Ford's own camber bolts only, as those camber bolts are the only ones I know of for certain can be tightened down to the full strut to knuckle fastener torque.

While it's easier to swap settings with the plates, that does not mean that once you get the plates that you must keep tinkering with them. Depending on how "enthusiastic" your street driving tends to reach, you may find a "good enough overall" setting that's neither too aggressive for your street driving nor too conservative for at least your initial track sessions. Keep in mind that Ford actually considers -1.5° camber to be the negative end of the acceptable range.


Norm

UPRSharad

That's ironic. I switched from the Steeda Sports to the Eibach Pro springs and I like the looks and handling of the Eibach springs better. However, in all fairness, the Steeda Sports have a slightly better ride quality. (which was expected since the Eibach springs are lower)

jayman33

Your comment on the springs is subjective and honestly doesnt make sense. Springs are only as good as the struts and shocks you have to support them. Have you tested the rear springs (the only ones you have on) on a track?

MOTRHD

First let me say that I don't take my car to the track...lol..don't bash me. I have built my suspension for daily and highway driving so comfort is key for me. The STEEDA springs make the rear end soooo much more solid. Had it out in the rain the other day and I felt a sense of confidence in the rear end that I had not felt before, combined with the BFG's...amazing! For my application the Eibach's progressive rate made the rear end bouncy there by upsetting the suspension dynamics. The STEEDA springs linear rate maintains balance in the rear end across a full range of driving conditions. For the track I can see how you may like the Eibach's.....anyone can have my set for $150.
My comment on springs isn't exactly subjective...I have had 4 sets now..three on a Trans Am, and now one on my Mustang. Seems to me that the progressive rate springs sag to the point that the progressive rate coils stack up which only gives you travel in the lower section of the spring.

Norm Peterson

Chances are that they are not truly progressive. Think "dual-rate" or "bi-linear" where the spring rate changes abruptly from the soft rate (space between all coils) and the firm rate (where the closely spaced coils have all closed up solid).

This is a rather more difficult situation to properly damp than with linear-rate springs, because the proper damping also varies suddenly and at some uncertain ride height. If you damp the stiff rate for performance, it'll be too stiff if the spring extends in rebound far enough to open up the closed coils and activate the "soft rate". Expect the shock or strut involved to excessively unload the tire and throw away grip at that end of the car. But if you damp for the soft rate, it won't be enough for performance at the firm rate (but can possibly end up being decent for ride quality).


Norm

427Roush

Noticing that your location is California. If money is truly no object, I'd drop my car off with Bruce Griggs in Petaluma and have the whole S197 chassis/suspension works installed.
Second choice would be Filip Trojanek at Cortex racing at Sonoma Raceway (Sears Point)
Third choice, Borelli Motorsports in San Jose/Santa Clara.

F1Fan

I would have to agree that if money were no object I would install Griggs "Ultimate Street" suspension adding a Griggs Watt's link and adjustable rear anti-roll bar. But I doubt the OP means he is willing and able to spend nearly 20K on suspension, brakes wheels and tires for his street pony.

More approachable cost wise and fantastic handling and good riding for use on a street car would be a basic setup using: Ground Control coilovers w/race camber plates, adjustable tubular 35mm front bar of your choice, bumpsteer outer tie-rod kit (Steeda or other name brand, this is a critical part), a lower K-member brace (like Steeda G-Trac), Steeda Comp/Street UCA kit (improved geometry and uniquely effective bushing), poly bushed TIG welded 4130 tubular LCAs of your choice, Steeda or Griggs adjustable rear anti-roll bar, Steeda or Griggs adjustable Watt's link. This setup is easy to do in your garage for $3,500 to $4,000 or so you provide the labor. This works like nobody's business and even rides well depending on spring rates, ride height and wheel/tire setup. I suggest 18"x10" wheels with 275 tires all around for high grip but an 18"x 8.5"-9" wheel with a 235-255 tire makes for a better driving car that you get to actually drive vs. just hang on to when cornering.

Get some ds2500 pads and some spindle ducts and add the hose to the nose to help your brakes last. Ideally you would install a 14" brake kit but they add unsprung weight like 19"-20" wheel/tires do.

HTH!