flash_xx

I'm guessing you change pads before a race? I'm still working on the lazyness factor. Carbotechs were my first choice but I'd rather just put gas and go to the track, so I'll probably have to compromise a bit on the pad choice and get something i can live with day to day and take to the track for a few laps.

AMWill

flash_xx,

The Hawk HPS pads are a great compromise between street & track. They'll last way longer than the factory pads as far as brake fad. Plus, you'll see a significant increase in stopping power!

As others have mentioned, using DOT4 brake fluid and stainless brake lines is another good step to take. The higher boiling temperature will come in handy after a few laps, to say the least! Also, Russell stainless steel braided brake lines keep the pedal from getting spongy, too.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!

Shane

UrS4

I would do at a minimum HP plus pads based on speeds u see on ur track. I run HPS and they are not even close to what I was hoping for. Yes they are better than stock and have good initial bite but they are a good street pad only.

JThor

I do the same lazy gas and go DE's. I get plenty of fun out of them that way. What's fun is after you get some experience and training, you are passing a lot of the cars with the hi-perf toys and R Comp tires. These cars can way out perform most of the drivers in the seat.

If your pedal is getting spongy, that may be more a brake fluid issue than pads. How old is the brake fluid in the system? If it is more than a year old, you really need to change it out. Brake fluid attracts water. When the fluid heats up under heavy use, the water turns to steam and the pedal gets spongy.

Look for a good DOT 3 or 4 racing brake fluid. I use the ATE Super Blue or ATE 200. They are the same fluid except different color (blue vs. amber). They are also the best bang for the buck. BTW, some of the best racing brake fluids are only DOT 3 rated. The real difference between DOT 3 and 4 is the boiling point when the system is contaminated with water. For track purposes, the dry boiling point is much more important. BTW, if yours is an ABS car, have the dealer change the fluid for you (bring your choice of fluid). In order to properly flush the system, there is a special tool which cycles the ABS to get the old fluid out of there. So, an ABS DIY brake fluid flush doesn't really work. I was charged $95 from the dealer to do the flush on my car.

I would try the next run with only the brake fluid change. If you are still not satisfied with the brake performance, then look for a good compromise pad. The Hawk pads are good and are kind of the track junkie standard equipment. Ford uses a pad from Performance Friction on their Track Pack cars which is a good compromise pad. That's what's on my car and they work fine for light track use.

ccaron

For My 2011 GT, I upgraded to 14" brembos from a GT500 using carbotech RP2s on the front with DIY brake cooling - I used stock rear calipers with HPS that i drove to the track on (this is temporary). Changing pads in brembos is simple so keep it in mind for the future if you get really into tracking. I also use the ATE fluid.

The track i run features a 130-55 braking zone for turn 1 and i had no issues throughout a 20 minute session on a 70 degree day. I also think my cooling kit may not have been 100% effective but i was happy with the performance of the pads. My front rotors (advance auto) are junk and probably weren't straight to begin with.

For the headrest, I have been using mine turned backward, resulting in using my neck to stabilize, but there is no reason you couldnt bundle up some tee shirts and strap them to bring the level of padding to a more comfortable level.

427Roush

Here is my .02 cents.
If you plan on doing more than 6 track days a year then invest in a good 4 or 6 piston front brake kit with cooling ducts, SS lines and high temp fluid. My brakes are bled every 6 track days or twice a year. The more experience you get the more brakes you'll use, (threshold and trail braking), you know, slow in, fast out.
Try a CG Lock for your seat belt for more security. But with OEM seats you'll be using your legs, feet, arms and hands to brace yourself in the corners. A custom seat with the CG Lock and your OEM seat belts may work, if not a 5/6 point harness will do the trick. But for safety, with harness straps a roll bar may be required as you are locked in an upright position. A good shop can get you sitting lower in the car with ample headroom, however it may be a fixed position as sliding seat rails will add height.

Norm Peterson

There are a few other options (of probably varying effectiveness). Angelwings, which are some sort of drop-in bolsters that occupy the space between you and the tranny tunnel on one side and you and the door on the other. A CG-lock, which is supposed to lock the OE seatbelt against loosening (or something with similar function) is another option. There may be a DIY solution involving a second lap belt that does not slacken and does not use the OE seatbelt anchors, just make sure it crosses your hips (like the OE belt does) and not your abdomen.


I'm betting that you prefer to sit pretty upright. If you can live with inclining the seat back down a few degrees without screwing up the rest of your driving posture, that will buy you a little back-of-helmet space even if you leave the headrest alone.

Apparently the headrest posts can be bent slightly, if with considerable difficulty. But you'd better really know what you're getting into here as there are possible downsides.



Any good full-face SA-2010 helmet with a relatively wide eyeport. Don't even consider DOT-only or M (motorcycle) helmets. If you've never bought a helmet before, you'll want to try a few on.


Actually, it looks like you do have a bit of understeer going on ↑↑↑ . It doesn't feel bad because it's stable (IOW, you don't feel like you're on the edge of a spin unless you get into the throttle too much too quickly). And it's way better than if it was oversteerish, as a "loose-handling" car will eventually turn and bite (kind of like a dog with a mean streak in it).


Norm

Slowpoek06GT

Great thread, OP. Thanx for putting the pics up too. It looks like you take good care of that Red beast, but I'm curious as to how the front end (hood, bumper, CS) handled the track. Were you picking up a lot of debris? Did you get any new or big chips in your paint or the chin spoiler? I ask because I'm headed out for my first track day soon-- Thx.

tigercrazy718

if youre worried tape that sucker up. its hard to track a car hard and keep it pretty. especially if you follow another car. this weekend i heard plenty of stuff hit the car, but i looked and there didnt seem to be much damage, but i havent washed it yet. and theres always the possibility of someone straight up hitting you or you hitting them.

Slowpoek06GT

Does a 4 point harness with the OE seat require a harness bar or can you just bolt in all 4 straps?