VistaGT

Looking for a suspension kit and a better stance, I got the Roush Stage 2 suspension; was this the right call?

There aren't really that many reviews of the suspension itself, most reviews just talk about Roush's overall performance with not much to say about the suspension. Also, the reviews that mention suspension in-depth are referring to the coil-over setup on the Trak Pak. From what I gather about the Stage 2, it's the most comfortable riding setup with barely any degradation over stock, however with that said, is the performance still there? How is the performance/handling - top-tier, or what?

http://www.roushperformance.com/part...2005-2010.html

Any and all input is appreciated, Thanks!!!!


Also, in your opinions, is the 1" drop enough as far as improving the aesthetics? Any pictures from those who have this is appreciated.

Esch

I have it, and love it.

I did add a few more pieces than just the core Stage 2 suspension kit at the same time, so your mileage may vary. I also installed J&M camber plates, Roush LCAs, Roush strut tower brace, and a BMR adjustable panhard bar and brace. The ride is a bit more "stiff" than stock, but I was fully expecting that. It's not a rough ride by any means, but it's certainly not as smooth and "floaty" as stock. That said, the car handles like it's on rails now and combined with my 10" wide Roush forged wheels, the car is planted at all times with virtually no body roll.

Here are some pics of what I installed and how the car sits with these parts:

F1Fan

I've driven this Roush package with slight upgrades and the best thing I can say about it is at least they did not excessively lower the ride height and the dampers are not terrible. The springs and bars are typical "sport" street rates and the dampers are not great but the package as a whole drives decently enough. This is not a bad way to go for a very low price but in terms of actual performance once you get sticky tires on wheels wide enough support sticky rubber to generate grip the springs are soft and the dampers are inadequate. Drive it for a year or so, get comfortable with the new suspension. If you actually get to drive the tires hard enough to make them work you will find the damping and springs are weak.

The best thing you can do to an S197 chassis Mustang that is street driven or is a DD is install some good dampers (Koni Sports are my first choice for a stock style strut) with good adjustable camber plates (Ground Control are great race plates, Vorshlag may be quieter on the street but not as good a mechanical design) and dial in -2 to -2.5 degrees negative camber and under load zero out the toe. Buy a large 36mm front bar leave the stock 19-20mm rear bar and install a Steeda Watt's link. Roush makes some excellent forged wheels that are 10" wide all around, put some 275s on them and this will give you an excellent handling car with no bad habits, decent ride and incredibly good handling.

HTH!

UPRSharad

That's a decent setup, but control arms and an adjustable panhard bar should be a part of the upgrade. They make a very noticeable improvement in handling. Of course, I recommend www.uprproducts.com

427Roush

My car came with the stock Stage 2 suspension. The dampers started leaking after about a year and decided to upgrade to the Roush Trak Pak set-up. I ran this set-up for about a year and decided to add the Torsen differential and a Fays 2 watts link along with the Roush LCAs. The car handles really well on the local road course tracks for my HPDEs. This allowed me to adjust the camber to -2.5 degrees and run a dedicated set of track wheels and tires.
The ride is harsh compared to the Stage 2 suspension but I can click the dampers to a softer street ride. The wife misses the Stage 2 suspension, even when the Trak Pak dampers are set to full soft for street use. This car is used to commute for HPDE days and only has 12,000 miles, so she doesn't ride much as a passenger.

VistaGT

Hey guys thanks for the input. I'm going to keep the Roush kit but may pick up some additions. Do you think the following are necessary or at least a worthwhile upgrade while everything is apart? For the record the car has 45k miles and I already have solid Steeda LCA

- GT500 strut mounts
- Adjustable PH bar
- PH bar brace
-Caster/Camber bolts
- Caster/Camber plates
- LCA relocation brackets
- Steeda X5 ball joints
- Steeda bumpsteer kit

Thanks for the input!!!

427Roush

I would suggest Maximum Motorsports or Steeda camber plates. But careful as -2.5' or greater camber adjustments wears tires out fast.

Bump steer kit is recommended for lowered cars.

Steeda X5 ball joints are longer but have only seen them breaking on track cars.

I would get a watts link rather than replace the PH bar. It really settles the live axle rear end down, especially over high speed bumps and in curves and corners. The Fays 2 is least expensive followed by Whiteline, Cortex, Steeda and then Griggs. The Fays 2 and Steeda should be easy to install bolt ons. The others require a new differential girdle cover. The Steeda unit is similar to the Fays 2 except made from chromoly steel and lighter, thus more money.

UPRSharad

I used the UPR Products adjustable panhard bar and brace on my car. It tightened up the rear end slop.

F1Fan

If you are serious about improving your car's handling you need better dampers. You will wind up buying them sooner than later and nothing on your parts list can make as big a difference in handling quality and chassis control.

The GT500 strut mounts with their firmer bushing material won't buy you anything in terms of performance but they are more reliable than the stock GT mounts.

Unless you have good dampers and poly bushings on your 3-link and anti-roll bar (all six of them) even the stiffest adjustable panhard bar will make no appreciable improvement in handling. The panhard brace is an important bit of chassis stiffening that improves chassis life and transitional handling. But the handling bit only happens if the PB is stiff and you have poly bushings on both ends and tires that can generate enough grip. A Watt's link is superior in every important way to a panhard bar even if the PB is adjustable for roll center height.

Caster/camber bolts are unreliable and do not hold alignment when stressed on the street or the track. Camber bolts also sheer because they are undersized and cannot be torqued to an adequate level. Yes they are cheap but they are not reliable. That is why there are Ground Control and Vorshlag camber plates which are strong enough to take a beating and hold alignment without breaking under stress.

Unless you lower your ride height more then 1.5" you do not need LCA relocation brackets. These are only a good idea for a serious road course car or a drag car. For a street car the money is better spent elsewhere.

Steeda X5 ball joints are good, very strong, but not necessary unless you lower the car significantly more than 1" in front. A better option would be to buy the Steeda front control arms with poly bushings installed and the X5 ball joints. This really wakes up your steering feel and precision when combined with a GC or Vorshalg camber plate.

Bumpsteer kit is the same, not needed unless you lower the front ride height more than 1". Then it can make a significant improvement in steering.

The biggest improvements you can make will be good dampers and a Watt's link. Your list is basically a fashion statement if it is used for a street car. Save your money.

VistaGT

F1fan, thanks for the long and detailed input. You definitely sound like a hardcore corner carver. I just have to ask though (and i haven't personally driven any s197 with modified suspension), are you perhaps putting down the roush kit because its not up to your higher standards? I only ask as many others said the handling was good and its definitely not a cheap kit, I wonder how it is as a setup for mainly street? Ive had the car over 7 years and have never gone to a track other than the strip.....

I'm also not really a hardcore handling person, I simply have realized that the stock setup is unfulfilling and not much fun to drive. While I plan to go to a road course, i do not believe I will frequent them (though who knows I may become hooked!).....

Anyway....thats where I am now. Basically could a full Roush suspension kit really be that inferior....or is it simply not up to par when compared with track setups