Lowering on the cheap
09-02-2013, 04:27 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 738
Fine until/unless you overtorque them (fairly easy to do, leaving you with a conversation piece paperweight or two because you overstressed them). Or because the vibration from hitting a potholes and rough roads caused the adjustment to slip because you didn't get them tight enough. You don't have to be tracking or autocrossing for that to happen (although those activities probably do make slippage and other consequences more likely).
If I couldn't afford camber plates, I'd slot the four attachment bolt holes in the strut towers before I'd run aftermarket crash bolts and save myself even that money.
Even alignment can be DIY'ed. Trust me.
Norm
If I couldn't afford camber plates, I'd slot the four attachment bolt holes in the strut towers before I'd run aftermarket crash bolts and save myself even that money.
Even alignment can be DIY'ed. Trust me.
Norm
09-04-2013, 10:17 AM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 159
Well there's a lot to think about now. Maybe I'll try to do the rear springs myself since that's more of a "plug n play" operation, and I can save the labor costs there. I'm doing a few upgrades over the next 6 months or so... wheels/tires, lowering, new steering wheel, metra dash kit & a dvd head unit, etc.... so I might put the lowering project to the back burner for now.
09-04-2013, 10:22 AM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 874
Well there's a lot to think about now. Maybe I'll try to do the rear springs myself since that's more of a "plug n play" operation, and I can save the labor costs there. I'm doing a few upgrades over the next 6 months or so... wheels/tires, lowering, new steering wheel, metra dash kit & a dvd head unit, etc.... so I might put the lowering project to the back burner for now.
*Use camber plates. /stirthepot
09-04-2013, 01:14 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 159
Thanks for all the input.
Hmm.... this looks like a cheaper option... Will these work?
Hmm.... this looks like a cheaper option... Will these work?
09-08-2013, 01:37 PM
#15
If you wanna go cheap go with AM's SR springs. Same spring rate as ford racing. Last month they were on sale for $150. They've had nothing but good reviews.. I'll probably be going with these. You can use the remaining money you would've used for the eibachs (the extra $70) to put towards other items that compensate (i.e. panhard, sways, etc)
09-08-2013, 08:50 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 159
If you wanna go cheap go with AM's SR springs. Same spring rate as ford racing. Last month they were on sale for $150. They've had nothing but good reviews.. I'll probably be going with these. You can use the remaining money you would've used for the eibachs (the extra $70) to put towards other items that compensate (i.e. panhard, sways, etc)
09-12-2013, 06:41 PM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 406
Oh yes ...
... at 57 yoa I did my 2007 FX4 after lowering it 2" frt and rr .... best it has ever driven and tires wear evenly. I did fab my own style camber plates rather than use those weak looking cutaway camber bolts. Took half a day but it was satisfying.
09-14-2013, 04:28 PM
#18
OP, don't I know you from another forum?
Thanks to this thread I'm getting good info on lowering my steed. I've lowered many cars in the past so it's good to be getting some info here before I dive in. Just need to factor out what do really need. Lots of opinions here.
Thanks to this thread I'm getting good info on lowering my steed. I've lowered many cars in the past so it's good to be getting some info here before I dive in. Just need to factor out what do really need. Lots of opinions here.
09-15-2013, 07:08 PM
#19
I drive a V6 because I'm a giant wimp
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 101
I lowered my 2013 with the Eibach Pro springs and had bought the camber bolts-but after opening up the package and trying one in the hole it is supposed to go into.....I didn't use them and sent them back, they are way smaller than the original bolt and I can see numerous ways for them to be actually worse than having the wheels slightly tipped from lowering. (of course the more you lower it the more tip you'll have) I rotate often enough anyways-so I am not overly concerned about tire wear.
disclaimer---I am not a car mechanic, so caster/camber....I know they have to do with the front alignment.
Anyways I took my car in about 1000 miles after install to get it aligned or atleast checked and they said it didn't need any adjustment, I would have spent the extra money up front and bought caster/camber plates had I known then what I know now.
FYI-my car only dropped 7/8" so that may be part of why not a big difference in alignment.
I did spend $65 on a decent spring compressor for the struts and do the job myself on the ground in the driveway in about 3 hours total, including a little cleaning, installing the adjustable panhard bar and using up all the free play there is (very little) in the bolts to try and tip the wheels as much as I could to keep the outside edge on the ground.
Eibach just sent me the 10% rebate check form the deal they were offering then, so I got $24.59 back. Oh and the dealer didn't charge me anything for the alignment "check" since they didn't adjust anything--I finally had it in for that engine light recall anyways...
disclaimer---I am not a car mechanic, so caster/camber....I know they have to do with the front alignment.
Anyways I took my car in about 1000 miles after install to get it aligned or atleast checked and they said it didn't need any adjustment, I would have spent the extra money up front and bought caster/camber plates had I known then what I know now.
FYI-my car only dropped 7/8" so that may be part of why not a big difference in alignment.
I did spend $65 on a decent spring compressor for the struts and do the job myself on the ground in the driveway in about 3 hours total, including a little cleaning, installing the adjustable panhard bar and using up all the free play there is (very little) in the bolts to try and tip the wheels as much as I could to keep the outside edge on the ground.
Eibach just sent me the 10% rebate check form the deal they were offering then, so I got $24.59 back. Oh and the dealer didn't charge me anything for the alignment "check" since they didn't adjust anything--I finally had it in for that engine light recall anyways...
09-16-2013, 08:40 AM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 159
Not sure.... maybe a motorcycle forum?
That's the info I was *hoping* to hear. Do you know why you only got a 7/8" drop with the Eibach ProKit springs? They're supposed to do a 1.5" drop.
I lowered my 2013 with the Eibach Pro springs and had bought the camber bolts-but after opening up the package and trying one in the hole it is supposed to go into.....I didn't use them and sent them back, they are way smaller than the original bolt and I can see numerous ways for them to be actually worse than having the wheels slightly tipped from lowering. (of course the more you lower it the more tip you'll have) I rotate often enough anyways-so I am not overly concerned about tire wear.
disclaimer---I am not a car mechanic, so caster/camber....I know they have to do with the front alignment.
Anyways I took my car in about 1000 miles after install to get it aligned or atleast checked and they said it didn't need any adjustment, I would have spent the extra money up front and bought caster/camber plates had I known then what I know now.
FYI-my car only dropped 7/8" so that may be part of why not a big difference in alignment.
I did spend $65 on a decent spring compressor for the struts and do the job myself on the ground in the driveway in about 3 hours total, including a little cleaning, installing the adjustable panhard bar and using up all the free play there is (very little) in the bolts to try and tip the wheels as much as I could to keep the outside edge on the ground.
Eibach just sent me the 10% rebate check form the deal they were offering then, so I got $24.59 back. Oh and the dealer didn't charge me anything for the alignment "check" since they didn't adjust anything--I finally had it in for that engine light recall anyways...
disclaimer---I am not a car mechanic, so caster/camber....I know they have to do with the front alignment.
Anyways I took my car in about 1000 miles after install to get it aligned or atleast checked and they said it didn't need any adjustment, I would have spent the extra money up front and bought caster/camber plates had I known then what I know now.
FYI-my car only dropped 7/8" so that may be part of why not a big difference in alignment.
I did spend $65 on a decent spring compressor for the struts and do the job myself on the ground in the driveway in about 3 hours total, including a little cleaning, installing the adjustable panhard bar and using up all the free play there is (very little) in the bolts to try and tip the wheels as much as I could to keep the outside edge on the ground.
Eibach just sent me the 10% rebate check form the deal they were offering then, so I got $24.59 back. Oh and the dealer didn't charge me anything for the alignment "check" since they didn't adjust anything--I finally had it in for that engine light recall anyways...