SCCA Solo Nationals report--concerning Mustangs
#1
SCCA Solo Nationals report--concerning Mustangs
Short and sweet. Fastest Mustangs in F-street and ESP came setup from Strano Performance Parts.
The car in F-street was 3rd in class, but set fastest time on the west (day 2) course. 2007 Shelby GT similar to what I won a lot of championships in, but now on "street tires" where we used to run R-comps in stock.....
The quickest Mustang in ESP was Jadrice Toussaint's Boss 302. But it's far from stock, not even the 3.73's are there (too short). I've been working with Jadrice since the beginning on that car and 98% of the parts on there I set him up with. Hell I even spend a late night changing a differential for him back in April at a ProSolo.
8 of the top 10 in ESP are my customers (or in cars that the owner is my customer). The only exceptions being the two Subaru's. that group includes 6 S197's, and 2 4th gen f-bodies (one of which used to be mine and I won 2004 and 2006 Championships in).
All in all we had a very good year overall @ Nationals with wins in some super competitive classes, and a few that missed by thousandths of a second. On street tires and R-comps both.
I'm not always around the forums because I only have so much time in day, and a lot of it is taken up by actual competition and trying to further my knowledge. Good results are a nice bonus.
A little footage from Jadrice's Boss:
Day 1:
Day 2:
The car in F-street was 3rd in class, but set fastest time on the west (day 2) course. 2007 Shelby GT similar to what I won a lot of championships in, but now on "street tires" where we used to run R-comps in stock.....
The quickest Mustang in ESP was Jadrice Toussaint's Boss 302. But it's far from stock, not even the 3.73's are there (too short). I've been working with Jadrice since the beginning on that car and 98% of the parts on there I set him up with. Hell I even spend a late night changing a differential for him back in April at a ProSolo.
8 of the top 10 in ESP are my customers (or in cars that the owner is my customer). The only exceptions being the two Subaru's. that group includes 6 S197's, and 2 4th gen f-bodies (one of which used to be mine and I won 2004 and 2006 Championships in).
All in all we had a very good year overall @ Nationals with wins in some super competitive classes, and a few that missed by thousandths of a second. On street tires and R-comps both.
I'm not always around the forums because I only have so much time in day, and a lot of it is taken up by actual competition and trying to further my knowledge. Good results are a nice bonus.
A little footage from Jadrice's Boss:
Day 1:
#3
SAM! While you are hanging around, and not to thread crap, but I am literally moments away from ordering a full set of sways from you (just found some money in a savings acct I forgot about). I already have a set of the billet end-links but would you recommend going with the solid rear or tubular? I don't have a vert. It's an 09 GT/CS (mods in signature, getting close to full suspension makeover). I just bought a truck so she sits in the garage until the weekend so comfort is out the window and performance is everything. Also, how do you feel about the billet sway mounts? Worth? If so what brand, whiteline or steeda?
#4
I'd run the tubular bar. The solid one is stiffer than most folks need. It's rare the tubular bar gets run full stiff.
No need for the billet mounts. I assume you are talking about the fronts, and my bars come with a really beefy steel bracket. Also we use a split collar on our bar to keep it from sliding as we don't like to introduce heat into the bar by welding a collar on, and that takes some room and the other mounts use a bushing that's too short for the collar we use to clear the rad support.
No need for the billet mounts. I assume you are talking about the fronts, and my bars come with a really beefy steel bracket. Also we use a split collar on our bar to keep it from sliding as we don't like to introduce heat into the bar by welding a collar on, and that takes some room and the other mounts use a bushing that's too short for the collar we use to clear the rad support.
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