J&M Panhard Bar Installed
09-17-2018, 01:12 PM
#4
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Location: Pennsylvania
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I think they were dead even, but I put grease in them before putting them on, and the one bushing
pushed out a little. When I tightened it, grease came out the Zerk fitting... I am not concerned,
it will be fine. It is not a daily driver...
09-21-2018, 03:42 AM
#5
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As for putting in the UCA, do you have to remove the bolts from the bracket to install
just the UCA arm? Almost every video I saw, shows pulling the bolts out; one from under
the rear seat, and the two from the bottom. They put the arm in, snug those bushing
bolts, then put the bracket bolts back in, tighten to spec, then tighten the two bushing
UCA bolts to spec.
Just wondering, why can't you just replace the arm, without doing anything with the
bracket?
just the UCA arm? Almost every video I saw, shows pulling the bolts out; one from under
the rear seat, and the two from the bottom. They put the arm in, snug those bushing
bolts, then put the bracket bolts back in, tighten to spec, then tighten the two bushing
UCA bolts to spec.
Just wondering, why can't you just replace the arm, without doing anything with the
bracket?
09-21-2018, 06:56 AM
#6
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
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If you're only replacing a short (2005-2010) OE arm with an aftermarket arm of the same length, you don't need to replace the bracket.
It's when you put the later (2011-up) longer arm into a car that came with the short arm to get the benefit the extra length has on the geometry that you must replace the bracket.
You might want to replace the bracket with a multi-hole short arm bracket for use with an existing short arm if you were thinking about trying out different UCA inclinations for IC location/anti-squat dragstrip reasons and weren't going to go with the long arm. Though it seems to me if you were going to go to that much trouble you might as well go with the longer arm and do it all up in one shot.
There's no good reason to put a short arm in a later car that came with the long arm as OE.
Norm
It's when you put the later (2011-up) longer arm into a car that came with the short arm to get the benefit the extra length has on the geometry that you must replace the bracket.
You might want to replace the bracket with a multi-hole short arm bracket for use with an existing short arm if you were thinking about trying out different UCA inclinations for IC location/anti-squat dragstrip reasons and weren't going to go with the long arm. Though it seems to me if you were going to go to that much trouble you might as well go with the longer arm and do it all up in one shot.
There's no good reason to put a short arm in a later car that came with the long arm as OE.
Norm
09-21-2018, 11:41 AM
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by Me
As for putting in the UCA, do you have to remove the bolts from the bracket to install
just the UCA arm? Almost every video I saw, shows pulling the bolts out; one from under
the rear seat, and the two from the bottom. They put the arm in, snug those bushing
bolts, then put the bracket bolts back in, tighten to spec, then tighten the two bushing
UCA bolts to spec.
Just wondering, why can't you just replace the arm, without doing anything with the
bracket?
just the UCA arm? Almost every video I saw, shows pulling the bolts out; one from under
the rear seat, and the two from the bottom. They put the arm in, snug those bushing
bolts, then put the bracket bolts back in, tighten to spec, then tighten the two bushing
UCA bolts to spec.
Just wondering, why can't you just replace the arm, without doing anything with the
bracket?
asked if I really have to loosen the bracket to put the J&M UCA in. The arm is just to replace the
factory arm, nothing about longer, nothing about shorter; I just asked about having to loosen up the
bracket to replace the UCA... It's almost a YES or NO question...
09-21-2018, 02:53 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
It might be a matter of not being able to access the pivot bolt well enough to properly torque it. The factory shop manual specifically calls for removing the bracket when removing the arm, and mentions that the fuel tank needs to be dropped slightly as part of this removal procedure.
Norm
Norm
09-21-2018, 05:43 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
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Okay, all the videos show not touching the fuel tank, but taking the
two underside bolts out of the bracket, with real long extensions, and
one inside under the seats. I'm probably not going to go through all
of that, so will probably just toss the UCA in the trash. Not worth
selling for what I paid for it, and shipping on top of it... Just don't see
it being a big improvement for all that work...
two underside bolts out of the bracket, with real long extensions, and
one inside under the seats. I'm probably not going to go through all
of that, so will probably just toss the UCA in the trash. Not worth
selling for what I paid for it, and shipping on top of it... Just don't see
it being a big improvement for all that work...
10-17-2018, 11:59 AM
#10
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 11,962
So, question...when you replaced the OEM PHB with the new one, did you have any issues placing the new one in the old location? I just replaced my OEM PHB with a non-adjustable BMR one and it was a PITA getting it in the right location. It appears the BMR bushing made the bar wider vs the slot I had to jam it in. It took lots of rubber mallet strikes to get it in. Also, call me crazy, but the driver side tire sticks out 1/4 more than the pax side and I just replaced same length bar as OEM. Maybe it was like this before and I never noticed.
Last edited by TPony; 10-17-2018 at 12:02 PM.
