DW1

Hi i am really considering getting a watts link by bmr, however I'm wanting to pair it with a Torque arm from griggs. Will this combo work together with fitment? Also anybody know where to maybe get a cheaper TA. Griggs is $800. Any feed back on bmr watts link? After a couple years use. Thanks

flash_xx

Talk to Sam Strano at www.stranoparts.com

I've learned the hard way that mixing and matching components at random hardly ever works. Also, I don't like the design of the BMR unit, for that price I'd go with the Fays2 which at least looks lighter (Don't know if it actually is) The BMR just seems overly complicated and bulky, plus it's relatively new so it's bound to have bugs.

DW1

Thanks, best advice I've received. However bmr and fays 2, are priced around the same price $699. I will reach out to Sam. Whats your opinion in the Torque arm for 3v cars?

Norm Peterson

Making the decision to get somebody's Watts link is only part of the battle (and possibly the easy part) - next up is whether you want to run a WL whose main pivot is chassis-mounted (typically on a tubular framework that spans between the car's main rails) or one that is differential-mounted. There are slight differences aside from matters of exhaust system clearance, and there's been a lot of discussion. Without to my knowledge any clear winner.


For that matter, even the Watts vs PHB debate is far from settled, and no discussion I've seen (over a number of forums) seems to have isolated what might make the WL "feel" better from a technical point of view. But if you look around a little, you might find plenty of anecdotal praise for the WL.


I'm not trying to discourage you here, or downplay the importance of improved driver confidence if that's what comes out of a WL installation. Just trying to make you think a little about why you want a WL and help you identify what you might hope to gain from it.


I'll mention as an aside that the TA vs 3-link topic has also been more than a little argumentative at times elsewhere. Either one is better than the triangulated 4-link suspensions that were found under most Fox and SN95 Mustangs, but between them there has been no clear 'winner' strictly on technical merit.


Probably a little further up the price scale, there's Cortex, who make a Watts link and a torque arm.




Norm

DW1

From what I gather the main benefits from watts are seen on the street vs the track, keeping the car planted over bumps, and rough roads, as well as handling. TA benefits seem to benefit on track and street particularly with high horsepower application, improving traction and handling. I intend to get a supercharger, so I would like to build suspension first to handle the extra power. It almost seems it would be less of a headache to spend the extra money, and get griggs watts and TA, at least it would be parts that are designed to work together. Downside I really don't want a differential mounted watts

Gunganish

I installed a BMR watts link last November. I chose the poly/rod end model. I have a 2014 mustang v6 premium AT (ok, you can stop laughing now. I already have a big v8 BMW and got this as a daily for gas mileage)

Back th the post...
Comparing the mustang to my BMW (2001 E38 sport with multi-link IRS that handles AMAZING) the mustang with the panhard bar, did not. I didn't want to get into shocks and springs and all that so I bought the BMr watts link. I chose this o ER the others as I wanted a chassis mount unit, not the axel mount like steeds or white line. I liked the adjustable roll points. WL ONLY HAS 2.
Anyway, best bang for the buck for a solid rear axel car handling improvement. It doesn't affect the ride at all. You don't even know it's there, except when you're cornering, and even then it's un noticeable except it just corners better. Feels more planted. Tracks the line you want better. More predictable handling.

Downsides ( which is why I found this board and post. I'm searching for solutions to these two things)

#1 when using the stock sway bar, if I jack the car up by chassis ( like a lift at a tire shop) the axel lowers and the middle portion of the sway bar moves under the watts link main cross member. When locating the car back down, axel moving up, the bar hangs up on the cross member requiring the swaybar end links to be disconnected and allow bar to move away and around cross member. Then re attach links . Seriously inconvenient.

2) I have a clunk. I can not find and it wasn't there before I installed it. I've checked, check and rechecked all fasteners and torque specs. I found a jam nut on a rod link had had backed off. Tightened that. Still clunk.
It only clunks on small, sharp bumps, like road dots or cracks in the road. It is quiet driving down the road, even over ups and downs, cornering, waves in the road etc. just over small sharp bumps.
It's driving me insane.

Bmrs instructions leave a lot to be desired. Put the DS crossmember on first. Loosely. Then loosely attack ps side with spacers. THEN torque. Otherwise holes on DS will not line up.

Bottom line. The handling is so much better, I can deal with it.

Norm Peterson

Check the lengths of the polyurethane bushings in the Watts link against the lengths of the metal sleeves that run through them.


Norm

Gunganish

The sleeve that is inside the poly rod end is flush with the bushing and has almost zero play once installed on bracket.

flash_xx

"almost" on a car is enough to clunk. There should be no side to side movement whatsoever. If you can move it by hand imagine what a 3,500 lb car can do.

Gunganish

I don't think it's that. I had to tap the poly ends into place with a dead blow mallet. 0 fore/aft play.
My old mad is a machinist, so when I say "almost", I'm allowing for 1/100000" 😂