Kickerb6

Norm Peterson

Here's my more or less "original recipe".

1) Koni yellow shocks and struts
2) Steeda HD strut mounts
3) Strano 3-way adjustable sta-bars (I got the 35/22 set, which would use different settings than the 35/25 set that Sam is currently offering)
4) UMI endlinks for the front sta-bars
5) 18x9.5 wheels with 255/45-18 tires (typically inflated to 35 psi front and 32 psi rear)
6) Cambers "a little outside the factory range" at about -1.75°
7) Rear LCAs spherical one end, modified poly other end, off-car adjustable.


I drove the car that way on the street, and with somewhat firmer shock & strut settings also at HPDE road course events, where the car setup drew favorable comments from in-car instructors and track course workers for its composure. Easy to drive, no surprises.

All of the above was with the car still on its OE springs, OE rear UCA, and the OE LCA axle-side attachment points.


If you're inclined to run 19" wheels, 19x9.5 with 255/40 tires or possibly 19x10 wheels with 275/35 tires would be reasonable wheel/tire alternatives (I'm not a fan of 20's). For your tires in either diameter, shop at the Michelin/Goodyear/Bridgestone level rather than Nittos if at all possible (the NT555 street tire wasn't at the top of where tire technology was 20+ years ago when it first came out, and the somewhat newer NT05 doesn't impress me a whole lot better).


Norm

upst

Norm,
I'm in the same position as the OP. Have an 06GT that is stock and would like to maintain the original ride height but slowly upgrade the suspension for better driving for street use only. I "may" take to track one day but would not make any further mods.

Right now I am in the research stage before actually ordering anything. I know new shocks/struts are a big improvement and was looking at the Koni yellows which you confirm are good. I'm a noob here so pardon me for asking some basic questions.
- the Steeda HD strut mounts -> is that the same as caster/camber plates without the adjustability?
- Strano sells the sta-bars in a 3 piece kit: front, rear, and front endlinks which appear to be the same as the UMI endlinks, same price.
- Mine came with factory 18x8.5 and I have Firestone 500, P235/50ZR18A/S tires. Would not like to change that for now. OK?
- Camber -1.75°. Is this OK for street/hiway use? Is this achieved with adjusting the Steeda strut mounts which have an extra 1° of camber adjustment?
- Do I really need adjustable LCA's if I'm not lowering? Was thinking of the Ford GT500 ones.

Thanks for your help.
Frank

tsaints1115

I went with the FRPP 18000-a kit for the shocks and struts and the rest is full BMR suspension from front to rear on my '10 GT. The car corners like a slot car but the ride is still comfortable over the road imperfections.

Norm Peterson

Sorry I didn't catch this before.

The Steeda HD mounts do have some camber adjustability. Probably not as much as some of the C-C plates, but some.


Most any aftermarket endlink will be an improvement.


They'll work, but you'll probably want something better for the track time and relegate those to the bulk of your street driving.


Seems to be OK if you generally take corners harder than most other traffic. You should be able to get that with the Steeda HDs, keeping in mind that there's a little offset built into the strut mounts that can be used to push your adjustment range more negative separate from the plate-sliding adjustment.


Not mandatory. But (wisely chosen) there are benefits for your really hard driving separate from the ability to adjust pinion angle or thrust angle.


Norm

upst

Quote:- Do I really need adjustable LCA's if I'm not lowering? Was thinking of the Ford GT500 ones.
Norm wrote:
"Not mandatory. But (wisely chosen) there are benefits for your really hard driving separate from the ability to adjust pinion angle or thrust angle."
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Norm,
Thanks for all the insights. Did you have any "wisely chosen" recommendations?

Frank

Norm Peterson

I've had very good experience with some LCAs by Currie (Johnny-joint one end, poly other end), which I chose because I wanted the benefits of one spherical per LCA without the noise and need for periodic replacement associated with rod ends. Firming up the LCA bushings does more than help launching; more positive axle location also reduces compliance axle steer (where the axle steers slightly when the LCA bushings on one side are compressed more than the LCA bushings on the other side).


I did work on the poly a bit to eliminate poly to bracket contact and to reduce stiction in general. They get a couple shots of grease in each end a couple times a year in a car that gets driven in the rain, lives outdoors, and sees road course track time. They'll have been in the car 6 years this summer, and they're still quiet.


I just checked and supposedly Savitske Classic & Custom still carries the Curries - albeit on closeout. SCandC also carry a UMI product that should be similar. http://scandc.com/new/catalog/40

SCandC isn't a widely recognized entity on the Mustang side (he'd always been more into GM intermediates). I knew Mark from my '79 Malibu days and it was still almost by accident that I saw the Curries for my Mustang there.


Norm

upst

Norm,

Thanks for info on the Currie's. I will most likely order a set. In checking on the net I found a thread on another forum where you went into detail on how you modified them. Need to go through that a few more times to fully understand the concepts and how/why you made those changes. Great to have someone so knowledgeable and helpful on this forum.

Frank