Front and rear wheels
#11
F
11" wide rims for 285/xx tires is getting pretty serious, so you'd best be sure that having a more conventional-appearing setup is not something you'd ever want. On the other hand, 11's make the possibility of running 295's or 305's at a later date a more reasonable possibility.
You need to consider both front and rear wheel and tire sizes when looking for the better handling choice, and your choice(s) should be able to match the rated load for the OE tires at their recommended inflation pressure without deviating too far from the door-sticker psi number (yes, there's a procedure for finding out what the psi in a new tire size should be).
I wouldn't ever suggest going 11" wide in the rear without going at least 10" wide up front (I wouldn't personally go below 10.5" front with 11" rear, and I'd still pick 11" fronts over 10.5's for 11" rears).
Norm
You need to consider both front and rear wheel and tire sizes when looking for the better handling choice, and your choice(s) should be able to match the rated load for the OE tires at their recommended inflation pressure without deviating too far from the door-sticker psi number (yes, there's a procedure for finding out what the psi in a new tire size should be).
I wouldn't ever suggest going 11" wide in the rear without going at least 10" wide up front (I wouldn't personally go below 10.5" front with 11" rear, and I'd still pick 11" fronts over 10.5's for 11" rears).
Norm
Is it even possible to fit a 10 inch wide tire up front?
#12
Hansona15, all this information applies to my 2014 Mustang GT Premium . The best "street set-up" so far , in a staggered configuration, is: up front:Continental Contisport Contact 5P, 235/45ZR19, on a 9" rim. In the Rear: Michelin Pilot Super Sport,285/40R19, on a 10" rim. When I wanted the "Squared Away" look, I ran 255/45-19s, on a 9"rim, on all four corners. When at a NMRA event, I stay with the front set-up, but go to the Mickey Thompson ET Street SS, 305/35-19, on a 11" rim. When just testing, at the local drag strip, I will use the NITTO NT05, 275/35ZR19, on a 10" rim. P.S. check my past post about "offset rims." Offset is very critical.
What off set do you suggest for an 11 in wheel in rear?
#13
That sort of depends on your definition of 'fits'. The mass market wheel suppliers are extremely conservative (even more conservative than Ford was in some cases), and may not offer 10's in the right range of offsets to properly work up front.
285/35-18 (11.2" wide) on 18x11 wheels (about -1.9° camber). . . does not rub and the tread is still inside the sheetmetal looking straight down at it. So it fits as far as I am concerned, and aside from having to make an 0.6mm spacer for the right front I didn't have to do anything special.
Looks like the picture was taken shortly after a track day, so please excuse the 120 mph bug suicides.
but inside clearances are a bit on the 'tight' side
Norm
285/35-18 (11.2" wide) on 18x11 wheels (about -1.9° camber). . . does not rub and the tread is still inside the sheetmetal looking straight down at it. So it fits as far as I am concerned, and aside from having to make an 0.6mm spacer for the right front I didn't have to do anything special.
Looks like the picture was taken shortly after a track day, so please excuse the 120 mph bug suicides.
but inside clearances are a bit on the 'tight' side
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 05-22-2018 at 06:25 AM.
#14
That sort of depends on your definition of 'fits'. The mass market wheel suppliers are extremely conservative (even more conservative than Ford was in some cases), and may not offer 10's in the right range of offsets to properly work up front.
285/35-18 (11.2" wide) on 18x11 wheels (about -1.9° camber). . . does not rub and the tread is still inside the sheetmetal looking straight down at it. So it fits as far as I am concerned, and aside from having to make an 0.6mm spacer for the right front I didn't have to do anything special.
Looks like the picture was taken shortly after a track day, so please excuse the 120 mph bug suicides.
but inside clearances are a bit on the 'tight' side
Norm
285/35-18 (11.2" wide) on 18x11 wheels (about -1.9° camber). . . does not rub and the tread is still inside the sheetmetal looking straight down at it. So it fits as far as I am concerned, and aside from having to make an 0.6mm spacer for the right front I didn't have to do anything special.
Looks like the picture was taken shortly after a track day, so please excuse the 120 mph bug suicides.
but inside clearances are a bit on the 'tight' side
Norm
#15
In those pictures it was about 1.2mm - which was just barely enough to eliminate a very minor tire rub, and it took that 0.025" shimming on one side to get that much. I picked up a little more clearance when I installed FRPP hubs.
A 19" rim will have slightly more clearance because the strut slopes away from the wheel as you go 'up'. Tire clearance is more complicated since the midpoint of the sidewall bulge (what little passes for that) may not move up if the tire OD remains the same or is shorter than 25.9".
Strut to knuckle mounting hole offset from the strut centerline matters more as clearances get tighter.
Vorshlag has this all figured out, and I think Apex has as well (though I think Apex use spacers with same-offset wheels as the rear).
Norm
A 19" rim will have slightly more clearance because the strut slopes away from the wheel as you go 'up'. Tire clearance is more complicated since the midpoint of the sidewall bulge (what little passes for that) may not move up if the tire OD remains the same or is shorter than 25.9".
Strut to knuckle mounting hole offset from the strut centerline matters more as clearances get tighter.
Vorshlag has this all figured out, and I think Apex has as well (though I think Apex use spacers with same-offset wheels as the rear).
Norm
#16
Front and rear wheels
Hansona, I use a +55mm offset, on my 2014 GT, when using the MT 305-19s, and 295-19s. On my 275 and 285-19s, I use a 10" wheel with a +47.5mm offset. If you go with the 11" wheels, and you are lowered, you might have to install a set of "Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets." The red ones look very cool. P.S. Yes, I have a ton of tires and wheels in the shop. Remember, I only do straight line racing.
#17
11" wide rims for 285/xx tires is getting pretty serious, so you'd best be sure that having a more conventional-appearing setup is not something you'd ever want. On the other hand, 11's make the possibility of running 295's or 305's at a later date a more reasonable possibility.
You need to consider both front and rear wheel and tire sizes when looking for the better handling choice, and your choice(s) should be able to match the rated load for the OE tires at their recommended inflation pressure without deviating too far from the door-sticker psi number (yes, there's a procedure for finding out what the psi in a new tire size should be).
I wouldn't ever suggest going 11" wide in the rear without going at least 10" wide up front (I wouldn't personally go below 10.5" front with 11" rear, and I'd still pick 11" fronts over 10.5's for 11" rears).
Norm
You need to consider both front and rear wheel and tire sizes when looking for the better handling choice, and your choice(s) should be able to match the rated load for the OE tires at their recommended inflation pressure without deviating too far from the door-sticker psi number (yes, there's a procedure for finding out what the psi in a new tire size should be).
I wouldn't ever suggest going 11" wide in the rear without going at least 10" wide up front (I wouldn't personally go below 10.5" front with 11" rear, and I'd still pick 11" fronts over 10.5's for 11" rears).
Norm
https://lmr.com/item/WTK-177912G/mus...10-11-05-14-g2
https://lmr.com/item/WTK-177912G/mus...10-11-05-14-g2
Last edited by JimC; 05-23-2018 at 06:34 AM.
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