ChromeDome

So I was recommend these pads by some other bracket racers at my local track and well if you look at the photo I uploaded they don't appear to be holding up well but they are worlds better then the old HP+ I been using. Any thoughts on the wear pattern? These are only the front brakes as the rear look much better and cleaner. The track I typically run at is small 1.5mi and is very technical so anything like a miata will pass a heavier car like a mustang at least two to three times a session. Also I do know that the front rotors are getting past 600C as my paint marking are all white but this is been normal for this car in the past and no issues like this and this vehicle does have some cooling ducks for those front brakes.

08'MustangDude

I see a chunk missing from one on the right.... Fronts to 80% of stopping, so they're important.
That one pad in the right is getting too hot, and falling apart, at least on that one side. Usually
it's the inner pad that does that... That pad is probably dragging on the rotor, which is either
the caliper or improper or no assembly lubrication so the pad slides like it's supposed to.
Had the same thing happen on my former Charger, the front left caliper was bad, and the
pads were dragging on the rotor, the pads broke apart, and tore the finish right off the rotor.

ohskigod

Did a quick look at the Pagid page.......I got a feeling you are using the wrong pads for how you use the car on the track. The ones you have seem like a hybrid pad more suitable for autocross.

I just installed a pad like that but I only autocross......while they can do track days I imagine I'd probably have the same problem if I heavily tracked my car

ohskigod

that said, for the price? I'd bitch either way cause DAYUM those things aint cheap

Derf00

I'm guessing the pad that is all chewed up is the inner one? I agree with -08Mustang it appears heat is an issue here.

One way to help dissipate from the inner front pads heat are to remove the oversized rotor shields that run over half the diameter of the rotors and replace them with shields to just cover the ball joint.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-...elds-0513.html

Also, what kind of rotors you run? Stock? You need slotted to help let the gasses being built up escape easier. I'm not a fan of drilled rotors unless you pay to get some decent ones. Most of the drilled rotors out there are just for looks and actually can reduce your stopping power as well as reduce the rotor life.

bl817

I'm not trying to be an *** or anything, but aren't those Brembo or GT500 style pads? the stock GT pads are different (duh). I'm getting my car ready for the track so reading stuff like this is informative.

Norm Peterson

That's what they look like, but I'm hoping that OP will either confirm or deny.

A short technical track may not be allowing enough cooling, and the temperature-mu curve that comes up on the pagid page shows the coefficient of friction starting to drop off at around 500°C (930°-ish F) and doesn't go past about 660°C (1220° F). That probably implies something about what else may be happening to the pad material.


I think he needs pads of higher temperature capability, at least Carbotechs in XP10 or G-locs in R10 (1600°-ish F).


Norm

ChromeDome

Sorry forgot about this post. Yes its a Brembo 4 piston caliper. After getting in touch with Pagid of North America. First off yes the pads are over heated but not too crazy, they color the backing plate with yellow paint that will change color when pad is over temp. How the pads looks is fine, heavy semi metallic metals in the pads. I was warned about moving to there next higher pads as its not recommended for DOT tire, R compound recommended. The small size of the track probably only made things worse and chasing a Race spec neon was a poor choice, Also the low/junk DOT tires have little grip so brakes run hotter then intended.

Norm Peterson

Did they explain why they were not recommending their next step up?


For that matter, exactly what is their next step up? I can't find out much starting from Pagid's RSL29 page except that the RSL29's have a coefficient of friction comparable to G-loc's GS-1 street pads (which have a similar upper-end on operating range at 800°F).




Norm

ChromeDome

The next step up from the RSL29 is the RSL2 and the higher friction level and bite are very much pushing the limit of low end DOT tires and ABS systems. I assume if one had a really nice set of tires and maybe the ABS module from the 302R/S race cars it would be fine. I only moved to these pads so I would stop locking up the rear wheels and stay out of any ABS events.