05-09 GT 4.6L Engine and Trans made in USA?
12-15-2018, 11:39 PM
#1
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05-09 GT 4.6L Engine and Trans made in USA?
I was wondering if the 4.6L engine in the 05-09 Mustang GTs and the five speed automatic transmissions made in the USA? If not where? Also does the five speed auto have paddle shifters?
12-16-2018, 02:11 AM
#2
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The 5R55S cannot be used with shift paddles, I think the "W" could, but
that won't work in the Mustang.
The V8 engines were first produced in Romeo, Michigan then additional build capacity was
added, those were made in Windsor, Ontario (Canada).
5R55E/W/S 5-speed automatic transmissions were made in France, at the Bordeaux Automatic
Transmission Plant. It was sold in 2009 to another French company.
that won't work in the Mustang.
The V8 engines were first produced in Romeo, Michigan then additional build capacity was
added, those were made in Windsor, Ontario (Canada).
5R55E/W/S 5-speed automatic transmissions were made in France, at the Bordeaux Automatic
Transmission Plant. It was sold in 2009 to another French company.
12-16-2018, 07:56 AM
#3
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It's at least possible that the aftermarket has some sort of paddle-shifter that would work.
But the OE shifter has discrete 1-2-3-D positions for all four non-OD gears, with a button to allow/deny overdrive when in 'D'. Personally, I think there are some advantages to doing your manual AT shift commanding via the shift lever.
Norm
But the OE shifter has discrete 1-2-3-D positions for all four non-OD gears, with a button to allow/deny overdrive when in 'D'. Personally, I think there are some advantages to doing your manual AT shift commanding via the shift lever.
D (Drive) with Overdrive
The normal driving position for the best fuel economy. Transmission operates in gears one through five.
D (Drive) without Overdrive
D (Drive) with Overdrive can be deactivated by pressing the transmission control switch on the right side of the shift handle.
• This position allows for all forward gears except Overdrive.
• O/D OFF lamp is illuminated.
• Provides engine braking.
• Use when driving conditions cause excessive shifting from O/D to other gears. Examples: city traffic, hilly terrain, heavy loads, trailer towing and when engine braking is required.
3 (Third)
This position allows for third gear only.
• Provides engine braking.
• To return to D (Drive) without Overdrive, move the transmission shift lever into the D (Drive) position.
• Selecting 3 (Third) at higher speeds will cause the transmission to downshift to third gear at the appropriate vehicle speed.
2 (Second)
This position allows for second gear only.
• Provides engine braking.
• Use to start-up on slippery roads.
• To return to D (Drive) without Overdrive or 3 (Third), move the transmission shift lever into the D (Drive) or 3 (Third) position.
• Selecting 2 (Second) at higher speeds will cause the transmission to downshift to second gear at the appropriate vehicle speed.
1 (First)
This position allows for first gear only.
• Provides maximum engine braking.
• Will not downshift into first gear at high speeds; will cause the transmission to downshift to a lower gear, then allows for first gear when the vehicle reaches slower speeds.
The normal driving position for the best fuel economy. Transmission operates in gears one through five.
D (Drive) without Overdrive
D (Drive) with Overdrive can be deactivated by pressing the transmission control switch on the right side of the shift handle.
• This position allows for all forward gears except Overdrive.
• O/D OFF lamp is illuminated.
• Provides engine braking.
• Use when driving conditions cause excessive shifting from O/D to other gears. Examples: city traffic, hilly terrain, heavy loads, trailer towing and when engine braking is required.
3 (Third)
This position allows for third gear only.
• Provides engine braking.
• To return to D (Drive) without Overdrive, move the transmission shift lever into the D (Drive) position.
• Selecting 3 (Third) at higher speeds will cause the transmission to downshift to third gear at the appropriate vehicle speed.
2 (Second)
This position allows for second gear only.
• Provides engine braking.
• Use to start-up on slippery roads.
• To return to D (Drive) without Overdrive or 3 (Third), move the transmission shift lever into the D (Drive) or 3 (Third) position.
• Selecting 2 (Second) at higher speeds will cause the transmission to downshift to second gear at the appropriate vehicle speed.
1 (First)
This position allows for first gear only.
• Provides maximum engine braking.
• Will not downshift into first gear at high speeds; will cause the transmission to downshift to a lower gear, then allows for first gear when the vehicle reaches slower speeds.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 12-16-2018 at 08:01 AM.
12-16-2018, 03:25 PM
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Paddle shifting is on the steering wheel, there isn't one.
The 5R55W had the SelectShift feature so you could mimic shifting like a manual transmission without a clutch.
The 5R55S is minus that feature.... They also have a different overdrive planet gear ratio.
They still call it SelectShift on the 6-speed auto cars, with the + and - on the shifter, or paddles on the wheel.
However these ones are dual-clutch auto transmissions. It's not the same as the 5R55W version, which was
on the ranger and explorer.
05-09, shift paddles it ain't happening.
You can on the '10-'14: https://themustangsource.com/automat...mustang-24554/
This one won't even work: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/powe...-shifters-kit/
That's for older cars, without electronics....
The 5R55W had the SelectShift feature so you could mimic shifting like a manual transmission without a clutch.
The 5R55S is minus that feature.... They also have a different overdrive planet gear ratio.
They still call it SelectShift on the 6-speed auto cars, with the + and - on the shifter, or paddles on the wheel.
However these ones are dual-clutch auto transmissions. It's not the same as the 5R55W version, which was
on the ranger and explorer.
05-09, shift paddles it ain't happening.
You can on the '10-'14: https://themustangsource.com/automat...mustang-24554/
This one won't even work: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/powe...-shifters-kit/
That's for older cars, without electronics....
12-16-2018, 05:05 PM
#5
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All else fails, you do still have all five gear selections available through the OE D-3-2-1 arrangement.
I imagine it's still possible to give the throttle a little kick as you're pulling the shift lever down a gear, similar to rev-matching with a stick-shift. Takes a little practice, but on the track it's better to drive through any given corner in the gear you want to be in for accelerating out of it than driving through it a gear or two too high and letting the AT downshift when and where it wants to as you add throttle coming out. There's no good reason to add any sudden surges of forward tractive forces while you've still running with a decent amount of cornering g's. Works against learning to drive 'smoothly'.
Norm
I imagine it's still possible to give the throttle a little kick as you're pulling the shift lever down a gear, similar to rev-matching with a stick-shift. Takes a little practice, but on the track it's better to drive through any given corner in the gear you want to be in for accelerating out of it than driving through it a gear or two too high and letting the AT downshift when and where it wants to as you add throttle coming out. There's no good reason to add any sudden surges of forward tractive forces while you've still running with a decent amount of cornering g's. Works against learning to drive 'smoothly'.
Norm
12-17-2018, 12:11 PM
#6
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All else fails, you do still have all five gear selections available through the OE D-3-2-1 arrangement.
I imagine it's still possible to give the throttle a little kick as you're pulling the shift lever down a gear, similar to rev-matching with a stick-shift. Takes a little practice, but on the track it's better to drive through any given corner in the gear you want to be in for accelerating out of it than driving through it a gear or two too high and letting the AT downshift when and where it wants to as you add throttle coming out. There's no good reason to add any sudden surges of forward tractive forces while you've still running with a decent amount of cornering g's. Works against learning to drive 'smoothly'.
Norm
I imagine it's still possible to give the throttle a little kick as you're pulling the shift lever down a gear, similar to rev-matching with a stick-shift. Takes a little practice, but on the track it's better to drive through any given corner in the gear you want to be in for accelerating out of it than driving through it a gear or two too high and letting the AT downshift when and where it wants to as you add throttle coming out. There's no good reason to add any sudden surges of forward tractive forces while you've still running with a decent amount of cornering g's. Works against learning to drive 'smoothly'.
Norm
Just be aware that constantly manushifting the 5r55s can blow out/shatter/twist the input shaft. Ask me how i know
12-17-2018, 03:54 PM
#7
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WOT shifting manually, or automatically, are the same. What makes the difference?
I am just asking. I shift my VW manually every single day, every one of them, none
of them had issues. 243,000 miles, 175,000 miles, and I am on car#3 now...
I think it's continually read-line shifting in either case, people tend to race them when
manually shifting; but a good tune and firm shifts will do it just as easily if your foot
is to the floor at every shift when in "D."
If you manually shift with half pedal, or when it normally does, how can something
break or twist? I shift my '08 manually 50% of the time, but I am not racing it...
12-17-2018, 04:09 PM
#8
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Norm
12-18-2018, 01:26 PM
#9
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In the 5r55s when in D, they allow a lot of slipping for smooth operation (comfort). This is achieved by the solenoids have a lot of overlap in their engagement and release.. It takes the shock out of the drive train but also makes for shifts that are painfully slow for a performance car. When you manushift, that overlap is pretty much gone. If I manushift, I can get it to chirp the tires from 1-2, and 2-3 pretty easily. In regular D mode it MIGHT chirp 1-2 if all conditions and temps are just right. Also, when you manu-downshift, again, little to no slipping so it will grab (shock) the gear pretty hard. I should clarify that I do have my valve body modded (and also did before I blew the input shaft) so my pressure and my fluid flow is higher than stock. So that is probably a factor too in my case.
12-18-2018, 05:26 PM
#10
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IF you use the FIRM shift parameter when tuning, when in "D", it's not as you describe it.
They are crisp and fast, and it also depends on at what RPM it is when it shifts. I was in
"D" and it hit hard every shift at WOT. I have a V6, so I ain't chirping the tires shifting by
any method.
Using the shifter manually to down-shift bypasses the use of the coast drum. That is why
when coasting to a stop, they're smooth transitions. It's not overlap of shifting, there is
an actual coast drum with two clutch discs and plates. Overlap causes shudder and bump
shifting, a problem Chrysler has had for years. The 5R55 does not work that way.
Top right is the Coasting drum, which is used when coasting in "D" with O/D On.
They are crisp and fast, and it also depends on at what RPM it is when it shifts. I was in
"D" and it hit hard every shift at WOT. I have a V6, so I ain't chirping the tires shifting by
any method.
Using the shifter manually to down-shift bypasses the use of the coast drum. That is why
when coasting to a stop, they're smooth transitions. It's not overlap of shifting, there is
an actual coast drum with two clutch discs and plates. Overlap causes shudder and bump
shifting, a problem Chrysler has had for years. The 5R55 does not work that way.
Top right is the Coasting drum, which is used when coasting in "D" with O/D On.