rbowmar

Eibach f&R. My son did it in my driveway in a couple of hours. Retained stock shocks which was fine. Ended up a little high in the but the stance is great. added 18" wheels. and Magnaflow catback true duals also took a couple of hours. Any lower than that and scraping becomes constant.

supared

I know we've had conversations on the Maxima forums. Seems like you and I have similar taste.

supared

I've had some good experiences and some bad, but I am always willing to experience. After reading some positive feedback from Mustang owners, I decided to buy some eBay springs lol. We'll see how that goes at $82.00 for the set. I don't do any autocross, so my goal is to lower the stance, eliminate brake dive and squat, and do this all without sacrificing ride. If I don't like them, then I will go to AM's site and get Eibach's Sportline springs.

ZackBallard3

ok so ive been reading through this thread, i haven't read every page. but i am noticing noone that ive seen has bought the SR lowering springs. is it a bad thing that i did? i am planning to install them this week with the stock shocks and struts. is this a bad idea? any advice?!

Murphdog

Did you read the reviews on the AM page regarding them. Seem like those people who bought them, liked them. 26 of 26 positive reviews. I also saw that they are sufficient if you use the stock struts/shocks.

audioAl

I am installing the Stack Racing Performance springs this weekend, just the rears 1st.
I want to see how that looks and feels 1st. I'm keeping the stock shocks as the pony
only has 13,550 miles.

Norm Peterson

It's so easy to upgrade the rear shocks without going anywhere near the rear springs that they can almost be considered separate mods (even though it's still best to keep them matched). I went the other way, with Koni yellows and (what I'm still on) OE springs. When I do swap the springs, I won't do anything to the shocks except perhaps tweak the adjustment (a task that takes less than a minute per shock).

Up front is a somewhat different story, with disassembly, reassembly, and re-alignment being involved for both spring and strut replacement. For most folks who can't do their own mechanical work and their own alignment, the smart move there is to do springs and struts at the same time. Worst case if you begrudge throwing away struts with relatively low miles is to pack them up in the box that the new struts came in and save them for either a return to stock at car resale time or as a straight resale to somebody whose strut replacement budget is absolutely minimal.


Norm

05mustang88

When lowering it remember you want an adjustable panhard bar the rear end tends to sit more to the left. Also an adjustable upper control arm helps. Depends how low you want to go... I'm slammed about three and half inches lower than stock ride height. I have everything listed above plus eibach sway bar kit, steeda endlinks, steeda g-trac brace. Handles great!
Heres a couple pics...
[IMG][/IMG]

audioAl

Well Norm, I installed the springs and the only problem I have is a loud bang when the
auto shifts into 2nd from a burnout pedal stomp? I may need an adjustable uca? Pinion
angle problem, I need to measure.

Norm Peterson

Is this loud bang new since the spring swap? If so, are the springs 'clocked' properly in the seats?

The only other thing that comes to mind is going to be a bit more work and involves inspecting at least the bushing ends of the LCAs and UCA. Try to work with BMR especially if you have an early UCA (you'll have to discuss with them what constitutes "early").

After that whether you get new bushings or not, I think you'll want to belt-sand the outer flat ends of the bushings until they're no longer than the inner sleeves that the bolts go through (preferably 1/64" to 1/32" shorter, but not more than about 1/32" shorter). What you're doing here is keeping any of your bolt torque from being "wasted" trying to compress the poly. All of that bolt torque is supposed to be clamp load through the inner sleeve, so it won't move under load. If it does, it'll take up the clearance between it and the bolt and make noise doing so. Look for evidence of this happening.


Norm