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Dang Norm, I could not tell how to clock the new springs, it handles great in the twisty's.
Yes, the bang was after the install and torque of all bolts. I need to do another burnout
an see if it Bangs again I guess? Thanks for your reply,Alan in sunny Seadrift,Tx.
I already posted this in my own recent thread in this section, but thought I should put it up here so I could get some more eyes on it.
From my other thread:
So of course after considering suspension stuff I want to do some things I've thought of since buying the car new over 8 years ago. Namely lowering and handling upgrades. I would be doing all the work myself. Here's a couple of options I'm considering.
Both would include either the SR (AM brand) or FRPP front LCA and new front outer tie rods or the bumpsteer kit.
Option 1
-SR Performance springs (1.5 " drop) since they're on sale right now at AM for $99
-Koni Str.T struts/shocks or possibly Strange adjustable (same price as Koni's)
-J&M or QA1 caster/camber plates (although maybe I could just get away with using camber bolts and the Ford racing strut mount upgrade?)
Option 2
-Keep it simple and go with something like the Eibach Pro-System-Plus Kit (1.3" front, 1.5" rear drop), which would probably save me a little bit of money in addition to adding a front and rear sway bar
Also aware that I should probably do an adjustable rear panhard bar, although some people seem to think it's not necessary. Any tips/advice? Am I forgetting anything you guys would consider necessary? Relocation brackets? Thanks for the help.
After some further reading in this thread, it looks like the Eibach pros with Tokico adjustables are a popular combination. Any thoughts on how the Tokicos compare to the Strange adjustables?
I did Roush springs all around, koni str.t shocks and struts, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeds hd strut mounts/ camber plates with the ford k member brace and frpp strut tower brace. Handles great and is low enough to eliminate some of the 4x4 stance but doesn't bottom out or scrape on driveways or bumps.
My overall opinion about the drop on the new Mustangs is simple... Don't be tempted to put stupid sized wheels on the car just because the new mustang wheel wells will take them. First of all, it defeats the purpose of lowering the car because huge 20+ sized wheels give the car an off-roading appearance rather than the mean stance that the car should have. Second, it just looks stupid... This is a good drop right here...
In case you are still on this thread, I wanted to correct you on size of tires. A 275/35/20 tire is only.3" taller than the stock 18" tires for this car and a 275/40/20 (which is the Saleen choice) is only .4" taller. Still less than a half inch taller tire. They fit wonderfully and I get HUGE compliments on my car. They may not look right to you but it does not defeat any purpose as it only brings the car up off the ground .2".
I finally did get around to lowering my '08 - probably a couple of years ago. But not out of any desire for a lower ride. I was datalogging in excess of 1.25g in the corners on road courses while still on the OE GT springs. IOW, you don't NEED to lower your car for cornering capability up around double what most people will ever use on the street.
I went with BMR's Handling Springs for a GT500 (slightly stiffer than their Handling springs for a 'regular GT') because nose dive/tail rise under hard braking at HPDE track days was beginning to bother me, and the lowering was simply the unavoidable consequence. Being lighter up front than a GT500, my GT only dropped about half an inch, and I'm completely fine with that. Never wanted any more than about 3/4" or 20mm anyway. Out back was a different story, as that end dropped about an inch. So I worked up a way to shim about 3/8" of that away to put the rear lowering at about 5/8". I'm probably going to take another quarter of an inch out of the rear lowering to end up closer to 3/8" drop.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 09-12-2019 at 06:24 AM.
03-01-2013, 10:53 AM
