Cooling issues
#1
Cooling issues
so my mustang is a 1996 GT but has a 5.0 bored to .308.... I traded it the other day and after replacing the gauge I noticed it was overheating. I have removed the AC condensor for better air flow *does not have AC* and I removed the factory fan and put a spacer and fan blade on the water pump pulley. It still runs warm but I have a 2 row aluminum radiator coming in the mail and I'm just curious if this could fix the issue. It cools down a little the more you go down hill but if you go up hill it gets warm again. It has a factory radiator as of now. Has a 160 degree thermostat in it with fresh anti freeze. Could this radiator be the possible final piece? The motor has custom cam forged pistons and 4 barrel carb. Definitely produces more heat than an average 5.0 please give me input thanks.
#2
What do you consider average temp on a 5.0l engine?
Normal operating temps are about 190-205
How ever there is a clue here that you dropped, going up hill.
Check your timing, over advancing the timing can result in the engine over heating especially when under loads.
Normal operating temps are about 190-205
How ever there is a clue here that you dropped, going up hill.
Check your timing, over advancing the timing can result in the engine over heating especially when under loads.
#3
Cooling issue
No it drops going down hill more wind goes through the radiator I guess but if timing is an issue what should I set it to? The motor is from an 89 Mustang 5.0 the harmonic balancer has a factory mark but idk what the spec should be. The ignition system is stock besides the ignition coil. Motor is bored with forged pistons. I have a bigger radiator on the way but what should the timing spec be? I'll check it when I get home
#4
what type of ignition system are you running? Is it an old vacuum advance?
It should be 10 degrees before tdc. That is the base timing. Im assuming its a vacuum advance distributor so you will need to pull the vacuum line off and cap the line to check it or set it.
If the ignition system is truely stock for an 89 then it will have electronic advance controlled by a computer. In that case youll need to pull the pill out to deactivate the electronic advance.
Now as for the 160 degree thermostat, get rid of it. Go and get a 185 or 190 degree thermostat. The 160 degree thermostat is not even closing because the engine will run at 190-205 any ways. This will cause the engine to continually rise in temps. A hotter thermostat will keep the coolant in the radiator longer, giving it time to cool more, and keeping the engine at a more even consistent temperature.
Do me a favor and upload some photos of how the radiator and distributor and stuff are set up. I dont know if it has a radiator shroud on it or not, but that would go a long way in cooling the engine.
It should be 10 degrees before tdc. That is the base timing. Im assuming its a vacuum advance distributor so you will need to pull the vacuum line off and cap the line to check it or set it.
If the ignition system is truely stock for an 89 then it will have electronic advance controlled by a computer. In that case youll need to pull the pill out to deactivate the electronic advance.
Now as for the 160 degree thermostat, get rid of it. Go and get a 185 or 190 degree thermostat. The 160 degree thermostat is not even closing because the engine will run at 190-205 any ways. This will cause the engine to continually rise in temps. A hotter thermostat will keep the coolant in the radiator longer, giving it time to cool more, and keeping the engine at a more even consistent temperature.
Do me a favor and upload some photos of how the radiator and distributor and stuff are set up. I dont know if it has a radiator shroud on it or not, but that would go a long way in cooling the engine.