94 Gt vert cranking no start
#1
94 Gt vert cranking no start
This is my first post here everyone so I apologize if it's been done. I've searched and found similar but nothing's helped and I'm at my wit's and knowledge's end so any help would be appreciated.
So I have 1994 mustang gt convertible with the 5.0L HO engine (88K miles). I had a shop replace the CCRM to fix the A/C issue I was having (clutch not engaging). The one they replaced it with caused my car to overheat because it wasn't kicking the electric fan on. They replaced that and it seemed to run fine (albeit sluggish acceleration with the A/C on). Flash forward a few weeks and I serviced the spark plugs and replaced my coil, wires, dizzy cap and rotor and I took the car on a road trip to Tucson and back (about 300 miles round trip). When I got back to Phoenix, I turned the car off and let it sit for about two hours while I got lunch. Started it back up and the RPM gauge was going mental. It would jump from 500 to 2500 RPMs instantly and then fall back just as fast. I couldn't feel anything in the engine's idle so I figured that the tach was going. It was idling at 500 RPMs however (usually idles at 800) and felt like it wanted to die in first or reverse when the clutch was disengaged (but only when the I first pressed the pedal down, it was fine at the lights albeit again, with a low idle). Jump forward another couple of days and it died while I was making a u turn. It refused to start after that. Had it towed home and I checked everything. I've got power at the fuel pump and it runs through the prime cycle. The inertia switch has not been tripped. The fuses check out and I have power at the coil (but no spark, may be caused by low battery voltage from trying to crank it so often without a recharge). I have 35 psi at the fuel rail while KOEO and 40 while cranking. The injectors get power but it's 0.85V. The engine gives codes 212 and 542. Still no clue as to what it is, but I'm leaning towards that CCRM again. Any suggestions?
So I have 1994 mustang gt convertible with the 5.0L HO engine (88K miles). I had a shop replace the CCRM to fix the A/C issue I was having (clutch not engaging). The one they replaced it with caused my car to overheat because it wasn't kicking the electric fan on. They replaced that and it seemed to run fine (albeit sluggish acceleration with the A/C on). Flash forward a few weeks and I serviced the spark plugs and replaced my coil, wires, dizzy cap and rotor and I took the car on a road trip to Tucson and back (about 300 miles round trip). When I got back to Phoenix, I turned the car off and let it sit for about two hours while I got lunch. Started it back up and the RPM gauge was going mental. It would jump from 500 to 2500 RPMs instantly and then fall back just as fast. I couldn't feel anything in the engine's idle so I figured that the tach was going. It was idling at 500 RPMs however (usually idles at 800) and felt like it wanted to die in first or reverse when the clutch was disengaged (but only when the I first pressed the pedal down, it was fine at the lights albeit again, with a low idle). Jump forward another couple of days and it died while I was making a u turn. It refused to start after that. Had it towed home and I checked everything. I've got power at the fuel pump and it runs through the prime cycle. The inertia switch has not been tripped. The fuses check out and I have power at the coil (but no spark, may be caused by low battery voltage from trying to crank it so often without a recharge). I have 35 psi at the fuel rail while KOEO and 40 while cranking. The injectors get power but it's 0.85V. The engine gives codes 212 and 542. Still no clue as to what it is, but I'm leaning towards that CCRM again. Any suggestions?
#2
212 is (Ignition module circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded )
Start looking at your wiring to the distributor, make sure nothing is frayed there.
Check spout wire for shorts,,
It could also be a faulty ignition control module or TFI as ford calls them. Somthing in distributor maybe PIP.
Start looking at your wiring to the distributor, make sure nothing is frayed there.
Check spout wire for shorts,,
It could also be a faulty ignition control module or TFI as ford calls them. Somthing in distributor maybe PIP.
#5
Stale thread, but wonder about why? Is it fixed? '94 began with TFI remotely located from Distributor, if TFI replaced, and Distributor Hall Effect is putting out it's signal, look for wiring problem between the two. imp
#6
Ended up having to take it to a shop and they replaced the TFI and it starts and runs now. Still have a host of problems to take care of and a host of problems since then, but I'm still kicking myself for spending an extra $350 to replace a $75 part. For that money I could have just gone to digital spark!