Help! Rear main seal install!
09-18-2017, 06:20 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MA
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Help! Rear main seal install!
Hey guys,
I seriously need some help installing a rear main seal on the 4.0. I have already put 2 different felpro (2 piece) seals in and both have leaked.. Im picking up a stock Ford (1 piece) seal tomorrow. Is there a special tool/installation method I should be using? I feel that both Felpro seals were properly seated, yet both leaked. I was thinking about using some Ultra RTV on the outside of the Ford seal.. Please help, I cant go through this again!!!
I seriously need some help installing a rear main seal on the 4.0. I have already put 2 different felpro (2 piece) seals in and both have leaked.. Im picking up a stock Ford (1 piece) seal tomorrow. Is there a special tool/installation method I should be using? I feel that both Felpro seals were properly seated, yet both leaked. I was thinking about using some Ultra RTV on the outside of the Ford seal.. Please help, I cant go through this again!!!
09-18-2017, 11:06 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 849
Not familiar with the 4.0 design, but assume if a one-piece seal is available, it would be of the metal channel/rubber composition lip type which fits tightly in a round bore.
Such a seal is always preferable to a 2-piece, hands-down. imp
09-19-2017, 05:41 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Any special install instructions? Ive heard a bit of oil around the crank side of the seal.. And I was looking into a smear of rtv ultra around the block side.
Should the seal sit flush with the block, and am I ok to use the old seal/socket to drive it in? Thanks!!
Should the seal sit flush with the block, and am I ok to use the old seal/socket to drive it in? Thanks!!
09-19-2017, 02:42 PM
#5
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
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Make certain the crank surface is free of any surface imperfections like deep scratches or nicks that could damage the seal surface or cause it to not seal properly. A bit of emery cloth would help to get the seal surface cleaned up if it needs it.
You should put a couple drops of oil on the inner side of the seal that rides on the crankshaft and the crank itself. You do not need RTV on anything.
At best it'll just give dirt a place to collect, at worst, it will end up between the sealing surfaces and actually cause a leak.
I'm not familiar with the socket method for larger seals (too big for sockets) Cam seals yes. Wood block and a small hammer or just the wood block is enough.
If you still had the old seal, that could be used as well to provide even pressure around the seal while you tap it in.
This video is a really good example.
You should put a couple drops of oil on the inner side of the seal that rides on the crankshaft and the crank itself. You do not need RTV on anything.
At best it'll just give dirt a place to collect, at worst, it will end up between the sealing surfaces and actually cause a leak.
I'm not familiar with the socket method for larger seals (too big for sockets) Cam seals yes. Wood block and a small hammer or just the wood block is enough.
If you still had the old seal, that could be used as well to provide even pressure around the seal while you tap it in.
This video is a really good example.
09-20-2017, 05:45 AM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MA
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Thanks for the response, thats basically what I ended up doing as I installed the seal last night. Crank and engine both look clean, no scrapes.
Ford recommend I used a generous amount of oil on the inner/outer portion of the seal, and use a large socket/block of wood. I also used a socket extension in a couple areas where I felt the seal needed to be straightened out.
I will say, Fords seal cost me an extra $40 over Felpro, but man that sucker is in there tight! I did not feel the same about Felpros seal. I cant recall if the stock seal had a repair seal, but the new one did. I'll find out tonight/tomorrow if I did a good job..
Ford recommend I used a generous amount of oil on the inner/outer portion of the seal, and use a large socket/block of wood. I also used a socket extension in a couple areas where I felt the seal needed to be straightened out.
I will say, Fords seal cost me an extra $40 over Felpro, but man that sucker is in there tight! I did not feel the same about Felpros seal. I cant recall if the stock seal had a repair seal, but the new one did. I'll find out tonight/tomorrow if I did a good job..
09-21-2017, 06:12 AM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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I think I was slightly unclear on the 2 piece thing, meaning it did come with 2 pieces.. One of them being a sleeve. Regardless, both Felpro seals didnt look as nicely seated as the OEM seal does. I will be firing her up tonight when the exhaust goes back in. Hoping for the best!
09-21-2017, 01:50 PM
#9
Gentleman's Relish
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Location: AZ
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Oh that speedie-sleeve thing is usually for use when you have excessive wear on the Crank or it has significant surface imperfections where you need to create a smooth surface so you don't chew the seal.
Using it when it's not required or installing improperly can lead to leaks. When you install those, you're supposed to use RTV on the inside part that comes in contact with the crank. The outer part of it only gets oiled as it now becomes the surface that the inner seal comes in contact with.
Using it when it's not required or installing improperly can lead to leaks. When you install those, you're supposed to use RTV on the inside part that comes in contact with the crank. The outer part of it only gets oiled as it now becomes the surface that the inner seal comes in contact with.
09-21-2017, 04:27 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: AZ
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Oh that speedie-sleeve thing is usually for use when you have excessive wear on the Crank or it has significant surface imperfections where you need to create a smooth surface so you don't chew the seal.
Using it when it's not required or installing improperly can lead to leaks. When you install those, you're supposed to use RTV on the inside part that comes in contact with the crank. The outer part of it only gets oiled as it now becomes the surface that the inner seal comes in contact with.
Using it when it's not required or installing improperly can lead to leaks. When you install those, you're supposed to use RTV on the inside part that comes in contact with the crank. The outer part of it only gets oiled as it now becomes the surface that the inner seal comes in contact with.
FWIW, Victor Reinz is the company I started with in 1963 as a Development Technician. Back then it was still family-owned, Victor Mfg. and Gasket Co., started before the Depression by two brothers in their garage. Dana Corporation bought the Victor company in 1966. imp