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1995 mustang GT Dies right after crank

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Old 04-15-2018, 10:14 PM
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forbidance
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Default 1995 mustang GT Dies right after crank

When I crank it up it will spit and putter for like 3 sec before dieing. sometimes it backfires as it dies. after that it will only turn over and not crank. If i let it sit for a while it will crank but do the same thing. I hear my fuel pump prime. i tryed to spray some carb cleaner while turning over and still nothing.Anyone have some ideas this is driving me crazy lol
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Old 04-16-2018, 01:42 AM
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08'MustangDude
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Timing?

You're gonna have to check the timing marks.
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:24 PM
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Default Need to get a timing light

Ok, so I'm going tomorrow to get a timing Light. I did change out the Fuel Filter and got a new Idle Air Control Valve, I Also see a code after the first set of codes which are all EGR (I have an EGR delete), The next set of code after a single blink is a 212 - Ignition module circuit failure – SPOUT circuit grounded. I did what the Hanes manual said and used a test light and a Volt meter to check the volts and resistances and all checked out ok. So next on the list is to get a timing light and google how to set timing. Any advice on how to set timing would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:09 PM
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Urambo Tauro
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You might want to put that timing check on hold until you can resolve that code first. It sounds like the SPOUT circuit is shorted somewhere. If you pull the SPOUT connector, you can rule out half of the circuit by testing to see which terminal is touching ground.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:47 PM
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Disconnect the wiring harness from the tfi module and the coil then go to the ecu and disconnect the harness from it too.Locate the tan/yellow wire terminal at the tfi harness,touch one multimeter lead to it,touch the other meter lead to a good ground and your meter should read 100,000+ ohms.If not,the wire is shorted to ground between the tfi harness & ecu harness or tfi harness & coil harness.If it does show 100k+ ohms,leave the meter lead connected to the tan/yellow wire terminal,but move the other lead to pin 4 @ the ecm harness and your meter should read 24-26k ohms.Do the same between the tfi harness & coil harness.If your reading is really high or infinite,the 22k ohm resistor is bad or the tan/yellow wire is open between the two test points above that showed the high/infinite reading.The resistor is located on the tan/ yellow wire near the brake master cylinder.
If the tests above pass,check the spout.
Touch one meter lead to the tfi harness pink wire terminal then touch the other lead to a good ground.The meter should read 100,000+ ohms.If it reads really low instead,the pink wire is shorted to ground .If it reads correctly, leave the meter lead connected to the tfi pink wire,but move the other lead to pin 36 @ the ecu harness & the meter should read 5.0 ohms or less.If it reads really high or infinite,the wire is open between those two points or the spout plug is open.To check the spout plug,remove it from the harness, insert a jumper wire across the spout plug harness terminals then take another reading.If the meter reads 5.0 ohms or less now,the spout plug is bad.
If everything above passes,the tfi module is likely bad.You can test it yourself with the link info below or take it to Autozone and let them do it.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/ignition-module-tests-1

Your wiring diagram is shown below.



22k ohm resistor

Last edited by wbrockstar; 04-24-2018 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:26 PM
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Thank you for the pin out. I testing the Spout for grounded using continuity test on the volt meter and idk if my volt meter sucks or what but it would beep confirming ground but if you touched the voltmeter it would stop and come back so i going to get a new voltmeter and try again (Volt meter is very old). Its just baffled me. I have Spark , and the fuel pressure was 40 , We also made sure timing was on and not 180'ed.
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:34 PM
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I did look up under the car and the previous owner did away with the cats , IDK if there are any O2 sensors left or not but it ran before so that couldn't be it. After Pulling it in the garage, all i did was take the battery out , take of the upper intake manifold spray it out real good with Carb Cleaner, Put a EGR Delete on because someone just bent the old egr pipe over after cutting it. and Plugged the 2 smog holes in the back of the heads with plugs from LMR.com, Got a new
upper Intake gasket. and put it back together . Since then it hasn't ran, It cranks but not run, I have checked timing,checked Spark, Checked Fuel, Replaced IAC.
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Old 04-28-2018, 10:57 PM
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I got 19.75 k from tan/yellow to ground and from tan/yellow to ecc pin 4 i got 20.01 k
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Old 04-28-2018, 11:05 PM
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Between the tfi harness & coil harness its only 0.1 . Im getting 26.74 from the Tan/yellow to the 36 pin on eec.
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Old 04-30-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by forbidance
Between the tfi harness & coil harness its only 0.1 . Im getting 26.74 from the Tan/yellow to the 36 pin on eec.
When you measure the spout circuit,use the Pink wire,not the tan/yellow wire.Measure the pink wire between the tfi and pin 36 at the ecu harness plug.With the spout plug in,you should get 5.0 ohms or less.
The spout circuit is the pink wire between the tfi & pin 36.
The IDM circuit is the tan/yellow wire between the tfi & pin 4.If youre not getting 100,000+ ohms when testing between a wire (i.e.- tan/yellow or pink) and ground,it sounds like this wire is shorted to ground (i.e.-chaffed wire touching the chassis/engine somewhere) Somewhere on the engine or where the ecu harness passes through the firewall would be the most likely areas.Check the tfi harness wiring really good or see if a wire might have got pinched between the upper/lower intake.
If the upper intake is the only thing you removed,it seems odd that this type of issue would be caused by something so simples.Check for a loose connection where a wire enters the harness plug too,especially at the tfi.If you were tugging on wires,maybe you pulled something loose??
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