car shuts off randomly
10-07-2018, 10:01 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
car shuts off randomly
Hey y’all. So this has been an issue on my car for 4+ months now. It’s been to multiple mechanics, including Ford, with no solution. Hoping someone here can help.
2012 V6. Back in June it started to just shut off. Driving or idling. It’s not losing power. The radio doesn’t reset and there’s no sign that it’s a battery/alternator issue. It’s just as if you’ve turned the car off. Sometimes it will start right back up and be fine for a bit and then do it again. Other times it will turnover and then just die out again.
Throttle led body issues are known on some models of 11-12 V6s. These symptoms are exactly inline with the TB issues. Mine VIN didn’t fall into the problem cars but replaced it anyways and it still continues to have the issue.
Ive has it at Ford and they said it was my ECU and that it was “fried” so they replaced it. But again, no fix. I’ve had it at an electrical shop for about 2 months now and he can’t find anything at all.
To me, it’s as if there’s too much stress on the engine and it’s overloading and just shutting down. There are times where I would have the car on, turn the AC on and shuts down right away. Turn AC off, car starts and runs fine. If I leave the AC on after it shuts down and try to start it, it will start and die right away. doesnt seem to be the AC compressor because like I said, it will shut down even when I don’t have the AC on. Pulley runs free and fine and the belt shows no signs of wear.
Hoping someone one has some insight on this. Very frustrating not being able to drive your car for 4+ months.
Thanks
2012 V6. Back in June it started to just shut off. Driving or idling. It’s not losing power. The radio doesn’t reset and there’s no sign that it’s a battery/alternator issue. It’s just as if you’ve turned the car off. Sometimes it will start right back up and be fine for a bit and then do it again. Other times it will turnover and then just die out again.
Throttle led body issues are known on some models of 11-12 V6s. These symptoms are exactly inline with the TB issues. Mine VIN didn’t fall into the problem cars but replaced it anyways and it still continues to have the issue.
Ive has it at Ford and they said it was my ECU and that it was “fried” so they replaced it. But again, no fix. I’ve had it at an electrical shop for about 2 months now and he can’t find anything at all.
To me, it’s as if there’s too much stress on the engine and it’s overloading and just shutting down. There are times where I would have the car on, turn the AC on and shuts down right away. Turn AC off, car starts and runs fine. If I leave the AC on after it shuts down and try to start it, it will start and die right away. doesnt seem to be the AC compressor because like I said, it will shut down even when I don’t have the AC on. Pulley runs free and fine and the belt shows no signs of wear.
Hoping someone one has some insight on this. Very frustrating not being able to drive your car for 4+ months.
Thanks
10-08-2018, 07:21 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
10-08-2018, 02:55 PM
#7
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Rare in today's cars but cavitation of the fuel pump and/or vapor lock in the fuel line somewhere. Cavitation is from air getting into the fuel line or pump so you end up with bubbles in the fuel or not enough pressure to drive the car. Trying to restart it right away fails because the bubbles are still present or the pressure is still too low.
Vapor lock used to occur in carburetor vehicles and early EFI system that ran low pressure pumps. Fuel lines run too close to exhaust or not insulated well enough in the engine bay would get hot enough to vaporize the fuel in them before it reached the carb or injector, this basically caused the engine to stall and not restart until the fuel cooled down and turned back into a liquid.
Any thing change before you started to have issues with it shutting down?
Vapor lock used to occur in carburetor vehicles and early EFI system that ran low pressure pumps. Fuel lines run too close to exhaust or not insulated well enough in the engine bay would get hot enough to vaporize the fuel in them before it reached the carb or injector, this basically caused the engine to stall and not restart until the fuel cooled down and turned back into a liquid.
Any thing change before you started to have issues with it shutting down?
10-08-2018, 02:55 PM
#8
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
10-08-2018, 07:49 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
Rare in today's cars but cavitation of the fuel pump and/or vapor lock in the fuel line somewhere. Cavitation is from air getting into the fuel line or pump so you end up with bubbles in the fuel or not enough pressure to drive the car. Trying to restart it right away fails because the bubbles are still present or the pressure is still too low.
Vapor lock used to occur in carburetor vehicles and early EFI system that ran low pressure pumps. Fuel lines run too close to exhaust or not insulated well enough in the engine bay would get hot enough to vaporize the fuel in them before it reached the carb or injector, this basically caused the engine to stall and not restart until the fuel cooled down and turned back into a liquid.
Any thing change before you started to have issues with it shutting down?
Vapor lock used to occur in carburetor vehicles and early EFI system that ran low pressure pumps. Fuel lines run too close to exhaust or not insulated well enough in the engine bay would get hot enough to vaporize the fuel in them before it reached the carb or injector, this basically caused the engine to stall and not restart until the fuel cooled down and turned back into a liquid.
Any thing change before you started to have issues with it shutting down?
the only thing that changed were my lowering springs. Had them put on May 19th and the issues started happening June 8th
