no start/ 69 mustang w/302 boss
#1
no start/ 69 mustang w/302 boss
car wont start.. i was doing an alternator upgrade to the 140 amp powermaster.. while hooking it up it was not grounded properly ( i was patient for a response to previous threads, decided to hook up withouth putting new 8 g wires. ) and the wiring all fried.. at first i yelled bc i thought i killed my new chrome 200$ alternator but after getting it tested it was fine. so i installed it but NOW i cant get it to start. the battery is fully charged... when i bypass the solenoid it cranks but doesnt start. and after i pull away from solenoid i hear like a winding down noise... its winter so i have all season to get her right. please any ideas? maybe i fried the starter?
#2
Go to Basics
car wont start.. i was doing an alternator upgrade to the 140 amp powermaster.. while hooking it up it was not grounded properly ( i was patient for a response to previous threads, decided to hook up withouth putting new 8 g wires. ) and the wiring all fried.. at first i yelled bc i thought i killed my new chrome 200$ alternator but after getting it tested it was fine. so i installed it but NOW i cant get it to start. the battery is fully charged... when i bypass the solenoid it cranks but doesnt start. and after i pull away from solenoid i hear like a winding down noise... its winter so i have all season to get her right. please any ideas? maybe i fried the starter?
If you fried the starter, how can you expect the eng. to start, without turning? If it cranks, and carb. has fuel in it, and you have pumped it a few times, stop and pull out a spark plug: it should look wet with gas. If not, no fuel/poor mix/bad carb/fuel pump/clogged filter, empty gas tank. If wet, likely no/weak spark. Check for spark while cranking with coil center wire pulled out, plastic handled screwdriver in rubber cap of wire, hold shaft near (1/4-inch) grounded part. Spark should be seen, heard clicking repeatedly. If no spark, ignition coil/ignition coil resistor/ignition switch in that order. This assumes correctly set ignition points in the distributor/no wiring faults........ imp
#3
well when did it last run?
how long has it sat since it last ran?
Did it ever run with the 1 wire alt? is this the same 140a?
You said you were upgrading a 140A powemaster alternator....what was the issue with the stock 140a? What did you change out?
how long has it sat since it last ran?
Did it ever run with the 1 wire alt? is this the same 140a?
You said you were upgrading a 140A powemaster alternator....what was the issue with the stock 140a? What did you change out?
#4
it last ran 3 weeks ago, i was running the standard stock 40-55 amp. not sure exactly the amperage but it was a 3 wire amp.. i upgraded to the one wire 140 amp... i had a "mechanic" come out and attempt to install and do a Tune up. unfortunatly halfway thru his work i realized he was addicted to drugs. and had to remove him from the work...(i have over 45k in this car).. i hooked everything back up but because i was unable to identify what went wrong after i misgrounded the wires that fried. im here, as you all can prob tell im the amateur car guy. can change out thermastats radiators or brake swap n such but as soon as it gets to the fuel or compression im stuck... ill take some info from this thread and apply it before going to an actual mustang shop... if any info comes to mind please lmk
#5
ugh... well it probably has no spark.
A simple way to check is to remove the boot from the coil.. This is the wire that runs from the distributor center post to the round can (coil) if you remove this wire and place a metal object about 1" in front of the coil right where the plug boot fit and this metal object needs to be touching other metal on the engine like maybe a valve cover so its grounded. Then crank the engine over and you should see spark jump from the coil to the metal object (perhaps a long wrench)... If not probably no spark due probably due to incorrect wiring someplace by the old alternator..
A simple way to check is to remove the boot from the coil.. This is the wire that runs from the distributor center post to the round can (coil) if you remove this wire and place a metal object about 1" in front of the coil right where the plug boot fit and this metal object needs to be touching other metal on the engine like maybe a valve cover so its grounded. Then crank the engine over and you should see spark jump from the coil to the metal object (perhaps a long wrench)... If not probably no spark due probably due to incorrect wiring someplace by the old alternator..
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AJJ90GT
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
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04-06-2006 06:15 PM