Car not starting after disconnecting and reconnecting battery.
#1
Car not starting after disconnecting and reconnecting battery.
My car is a 2012 Mustang, I disconnected and reconnected the battery because my bluetooth wasn't working and I read that disconnecting the negative would reset it. After letting it sit for about 10 minutes I reconnected the negative and tried to start my car and it won't turn over now, but lights, windows, radio, and heat/AC all work and I can hear the fuel pump.
Steps I've tried so far are cleaning the terminals, fully charging the battery (12.5 or so w/o the charger on it and a little over 14 with it), checking every relevant fuse, and adding a couple grounds from the engine to the frame because I read that it could be a grounding issue. Nothing I've tried has made any difference and I'm completely stumped about what to do. I've checked voltage to everything with a meter and it all looks good. I'm kind of leaning toward the anti theft system getting messed up because it's the absolute last thing I can think of. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Steps I've tried so far are cleaning the terminals, fully charging the battery (12.5 or so w/o the charger on it and a little over 14 with it), checking every relevant fuse, and adding a couple grounds from the engine to the frame because I read that it could be a grounding issue. Nothing I've tried has made any difference and I'm completely stumped about what to do. I've checked voltage to everything with a meter and it all looks good. I'm kind of leaning toward the anti theft system getting messed up because it's the absolute last thing I can think of. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
What is the security light doing when you turn the key to start? You may need to
turn the key to run, and let it sit for 5-10 minutes for PATS to reset.
Check the fusible link to the starter solenoid.
Fuse 19 in the BJB is the starter relay fuse.
Fuse 27 inside, in the SJB is Ignition switch.
Fuse 35 in the SJB is the Anti-Theft transceiver.
turn the key to run, and let it sit for 5-10 minutes for PATS to reset.
Check the fusible link to the starter solenoid.
Fuse 19 in the BJB is the starter relay fuse.
Fuse 27 inside, in the SJB is Ignition switch.
Fuse 35 in the SJB is the Anti-Theft transceiver.
#3
Alright I checked all those fuses and they're all good, the anti theft light blinks rapidly and then slows down, eventually stopping completely after around 2-3 minutes. I tried leaving the key in the ignition and in the start position and nothing happened when I tried to start it after 10-15 minutes.
#4
Well, it is PATS, so something happened when you connected the new battery,
It's supposed to read the key after four seconds in the RUN position, then the
light is supposed to go solid RED.
Try your spare key.. If not, then it will need towed to the dealer to be programmed.
The FOB is not part of PATS, so the FOB can still lock, unlock, arm and disarm,
the PATS portion is separate.
Or, if you have both keys or other keys with transponders on the same ring when starting, only
ONE key is permitted.
Try disconnecting the battery again, and reconnecting...
SO, you saw it flash fast, then it slowed, pay attention to the slow blinks:
Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code: (sequence- pause-sequence) Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key using master.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer .
It's supposed to read the key after four seconds in the RUN position, then the
light is supposed to go solid RED.
Try your spare key.. If not, then it will need towed to the dealer to be programmed.
The FOB is not part of PATS, so the FOB can still lock, unlock, arm and disarm,
the PATS portion is separate.
Or, if you have both keys or other keys with transponders on the same ring when starting, only
ONE key is permitted.
Try disconnecting the battery again, and reconnecting...
SO, you saw it flash fast, then it slowed, pay attention to the slow blinks:
Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code: (sequence- pause-sequence) Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key using master.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer .
#6
This can mean that the PCM isn't getting power, but the cluster is.
Check the fuses that supply the PCM.
If that's not it, try new PCM Power Relay if those fuses check out (can swap one).
Good way to test, do you have a scan tool? Turn the car to run, and plug the scan
tool in to see if you got communications with the ECU. If your scan tool does not
power up, then there is one issue.
Check the fuses that supply the PCM.
If that's not it, try new PCM Power Relay if those fuses check out (can swap one).
Good way to test, do you have a scan tool? Turn the car to run, and plug the scan
tool in to see if you got communications with the ECU. If your scan tool does not
power up, then there is one issue.
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